What about compounds? Anyone running a set?

Clubbs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2008
Location
Blounts Creek
Considering a compound turbo setup for the cummins. Keep the factory VGT turbo then add a 480ish to it. First do head studs, valve springs, and push rods to handle the boost.

Don't see much down side to it. Lower EGT, more power, faster spool, big turbo for high rpm, all the things needed for more fuel adds later. I suppose the charge air cooler could heat soak the radiator and coolant temps could get higher, but this thing seems to be immune to heat build up even pulling hills towing.

I would think it would require a different ezlynk tune file but I don't see anyone advertising compound tunes - maybe it's smart enough to compensate on its own???

Anyone running two turbskis on a 4th Gen ram?
 
I sold a 3rd gen last year about this time that I owned about 15 years. Was running a 57 and 72 mm. With a 15% over 6.7 cp3 it made 600/1250 to the tire and ran out of pump. You will not be disappointed in how it pulls. Also still have a 1st gen p-pump truck running a 62/75 setup and folks are surprised how it runs and pulls. My 3rd gen would still get 20mpg tuned for the above HP
 
Are you looking at a kit or going to put something together yourself?

Duane
 
CLRracer said:
Are you looking at a kit or going to put something together yourself?

Duane
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Kits right now. Aurora is super pricey and I can't figure out why from website shopping. DPS seems to have the most figured out and actual engineering behind it and a decent price. Pusher is also pricey. BMP is by far the best price.

Looks like it would be relatively simple to put it together myself, but it would require a couple weeks of downtime and ordering/fabbing components without a kit. But I would need to get this put together over a weekend... Or daily the CJ 150 miles a day to work while I figured out bends, flanges, and fittings.

Either way keeping the stock turbo and then adding a 475 or 480ish to it.

Struggling with why I need the 625 ARP studs for $1600 vs the standard ARP's for $550. The standard 2000's have a 220k tensile strength and the 625 hi performance studs have a 260k tensile strength.

In my experience the tensile strength spec is a minimum spec so all the standards have at least 220k. So are the 625's just hype or is there actual value in spending the extra grand for 18% more tensile strength?

Either way Ive got to do this in stages for cash flow reasons. First stage is studs, valve springs and push rods, then compounds which will be a sizable performance improvement, but will be fuel limited, which injectors and pump upgrades would be phase 3. So I need the studs to be able to support 750ish HP. I think I can do that without issue with the 220k tensile strength studs, but everything I read by the flatbill experts suggest you have to have the 625's for everything... Where's the science?
 
Not yet. I don't know how much tuning is mandatory or if it's a dial it in sort of thing. Running a sotf CCS set of tunes now.

Open to any tuning suggestions
 
Nothing valuable to add here, but...

I had a buddy with an 05 cummins with compound turbos. He got a lot of life out of that truck and the only issue he had was snapping TC input shafts.

That and a f1x/lsx 454 Camaro are the two things that have scared the #$%& out of me.
 
I would think a reputable tuner would be pretty important trying to reach those power levels, I have seen some hold 500hp (stock turbo) hold up on stock head studs. and i have seen them blow a head gasket with a small tow tune. MiniMax was notorious back when the 4th gens came out.
 
The regular ARPs will be fine. I've been shoving 57 lbs in my First Gen motor on stock head bolts and head gasket for 15 years. Different animal, but I digress.

S480, for sure. Even better with a forged compressor wheel. The flow is much better vs an S475. Since you're doing studs/springs/pushrods, I will always suggest a cam while you're at it. With a compound setup, you can actually drop boost (resistance) and gain power from the extra air flow and efficiency.

As for tuning, here ya go. I've got two trucks tuned by Dominic when he worked for Starlite. Good stuff and he knows how to keep stuff from breaking...if you want him to do that.

Absolutely, yes, it will require very specific tuning. There's a lot more air getting shoved in it and the fueling needs to be dialed in.

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Wasn't planning on pulling the head for this phase. Isnt that required for the cam swap? As usuall I'm on a budget too ya know...
 
Nope! Just have to hold the lifters/tappets up. On the newer trucks, I see most folks use magnets. Older ones like mine, a 1/2" wooden dowel with a bevel and a slot works perfect. I still have that fancy lifter tray tool too. I did a Hamilton 181/210. They're not terribly expensive. Even a small one is a lotttt better than stock!

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Croatan_Kid said:
Nope! Just have to hold the lifters/tappets up. On the newer trucks, I see most folks use magnets. Older ones like mine, a 1/2" wooden dowel with a bevel and a slot works perfect. I still have that fancy lifter tray tool too. I did a Hamilton 181/210. They're not terribly expensive. Even a small one is a lotttt better than stock!

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And you were like 12 years old when you did this too...
 
Close! It was 2011, so I was 21 😅 That was only 14 years ago.
 
Just ordered the head freeze plug kit, 625 studs, conical race valve springs and stage 2 pushrods from PDD. Going to be a pricey little box of parts.

PDD recommends rods for anything over 600hp. Figure I'll do the head parts soon, then add the compounds and run that for a bit.

Then when funding is available and it starts to feel slow again, I'll pull the engine, send my injectors to Dynomite diesel for 40% tips and ballancing along with a 12mm cp3. I figure by time I get rods in it and the engine back in theyll have my injectors back.

And so it begins...
 
Compounds are in route. Went with the black market Performance kit, but swapped out the S475 for a billet ball bearing S485. Also opted for the AN turbo drain upgrade instead of the basic drain with the hope that fitting will be easier to press into the block.

Adam at BMP said it's about a month lead time.

PDD head stuff is in route, which is good

Banks intake (only went this route because I think it's the most complete unit for the grid heater delete) has not shipped yet and I can't get ahold of Banks. Ordered it 8 weeks ago I think... This may be the hold up to wrench fest.

Sent specs up to dirty diesel where I bought the CCS tunes from originally. They turned around another tune the same day. I offered to dyno the truck after the install and asked them to be available to remote in for feedback and to dial it in. Dirty diesel has been good to work with, but they are basically the dealer for CCS, I don't know how much pull they have with their supplier. May go with @Croatan_Kid tuning referral in the end.

Week link now so I'm told is the stock connecting rods, but suspect (hope) they'll be fine on stock fueling???
 
The main complaint with the Banks kit is the proprietary injector line for #1. Not that they really fail very often, but if you ever need another one, you have to get it from them.

With stock connecting rods, so long as they limit fuel and peak cylinder compression below a certain RPM, they can make the rods live and not shorten themselves or create a rapid, unscheduled disassembly. Guys have been doing it for a long time with LB7s. Basically, move the torque powerband up in the RPM range.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
The main complaint with the Banks kit is the proprietary injector line for #1. Not that they really fail very often, but if you ever need another one, you have to get it from them.

With stock connecting rods, so long as they limit fuel and peak cylinder compression below a certain RPM, they can make the rods live and not shorten themselves or create a rapid, unscheduled disassembly. Guys have been doing it for a long time with LB7s. Basically, move the torque powerband up in the RPM range.
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Hope so. With the 4.10's my highway rpm is roughly 2k. So long as I have gobs of twist to pass everything pulling up 77 on the way to GER I'll accept some torque curve shift and lower EGT.

Trying to decide on A pillar gauges. Prefer all analog. Obviously an egt gauge, prefer a dual boost gauge with one needle on boost and the other on drive pressure. Is rail pressure the next most critical parameter to watch? I can get all this on ezlynk but not as convenient as having it on the pillar. I've got oil temp and trans temp on the evic. What would your third gauge be?
 
I'd opt for an Edge CTS2 or CTS3 monitor, if you don't have something similar. It'd be cheaper than individual gauges and will monitor anything the ECM sees. There are external inputs if you want to add various temps or pressures...although I prefer to have boost and EGT as their own gauges. Everything else, I get on the CTS. I have two screens populated, but you can have as many as you need. It's amazing how fast you get used to the locations you place the PIDS and a quick glance is all it takes.

I used to have it suction cupped to the windshield, but the dash mount I found is muuuuch better. The pillar gauges in GMT800 trucks look effing terrible, so I had to figure out something else. The boost and EGT gauges are in the overhead console.

As for drive pressure, I'd probably have it on its own gauge like boost and EGT.

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