what axles....built toys or 1 tons

No, I'm still building the truck, I just wanna go ahead and do something about the axles since I can't afford to break something and get stuck somewhere since I don't have a trailer or tow rig. I know you can break anything, I just wanna lower the chances now.
 
Longs
hub gears
tcase output shaft
maybe rear cromos
some people are breaking the crap out of carrier pins in their rear 3rds....I bought a truck from a guy that kept breaking them so he drilled it out of installed a billit 1" carrier pin. That fixed the problem.
You may also want to upgrade the knuckle studs...
 
I bought an fj80 and equipped it with longs. I'm wondering if I made the right decision. Longfield axles truly are amazing. I'm sheared all the studs off my wheel hub and right now I have a broken ring and pinion waiting for parts and install. I inspected every inch of the axles and the longs look brand new. However, I'm hoping the rest of the axle is up to the job. By the time you have a hi-pinion e-locked third, longs, etc. it can't be that much cheaper than a front dana 60. It will be lighter though.
 
damn woody......you need to use a little more skinny pedal
 
vanguard said:
I bought an fj80 and equipped it with longs. I'm wondering if I made the right decision. Longfield axles truly are amazing. I'm sheared all the studs off my wheel hub and right now I have a broken ring and pinion waiting for parts and install. I inspected every inch of the axles and the longs look brand new. However, I'm hoping the rest of the axle is up to the job. By the time you have a hi-pinion e-locked third, longs, etc. it can't be that much cheaper than a front dana 60. It will be lighter though.
Click to expand...
Iits cause you went half way. gotta run a HP chunk!:driver:
 
front toy axle-$200
Longs w/ cromo hubs-$800

front 60- $1000

toy- lighter, much better gound clearence, same strength as a stock 60 35 spline axle.

dana 60- stronger housing

dana 60 gears lockers ect. are a little more expensive.

i think with some gussetting and diff armor toy axles are the way to go. but im just a big fan of toy stuff and ground clearence though, it hard to move when you pig is stuck on a rock.

i have been running 38's spooled with stock rears and have not broke an axle yet, haven't broke a long yet either all though many 27 spilne longs were cremated. broke one stock hub gear.
 
well im not sure if ill like this decision in the end but ive decide to keep the toy axles if the truck doesnt sell, finish the build and go out and get somemore driving experience offroad and then build up as my needs grow. Id love to go with one tons but im sure before i know it ill be needing a bunch of stuff for the swap that will just nickle and dime me to death. And also i use to wheel with a pretty much stock cj7 on 31 bfg mud tires and had a blast and never broke a thing, not even the 2 pc. rear axles.

So if the truck doesn sell my plans are to switch to 4.10 gears f/r or get another 4.37 3rd, with perhaps a lockright in the rear and leave the front open. drop from the 37's i have now to some 33's or 35's, gusset the front and find a deal on some longs and hub gears. Then with the money i will be saving from not going to one tons hopefully ill be able to by more recovery equipment and perhaps a winch.
 
Most yota guys that continue to build their rig and do it gradually, end up with lots of $$ in their toy axles to make them live. MANY have said i wish i went with 1 tons to begin with. I'd do stock one tons with some 35" tires or so, and have room to be bigger later on. However, if this truck is just an interim rig until you get alittle more set, money wise, after college, stick with stock axles, crossover steering, and some 33's.
 
Stay with the toyota stuff, cperry is right all the way....stock rears are tough, dont spend money on chromos til you blow the stockers up, which you probably wont. Do the longs and hub gears, youd be fine running 35s+ all day long. The guys with toyota axles know, the guys with tons dont unerstand how well the yota axles do with front shafts and studs, i dont regret staying with toy axles one bit.
 
Well I know its like 5 weeks after the last post, but just to throw another option out there. You could do a ford 9" rear and a built Dana 44 front if you wanted full width. I have an 84 4runner and am planning on a built 9" rear and 44 front. I've seen a few other yotas running that combo with 38's. I'm wanting the track width and added stability of full width's is the main reason I'm doing it. I agree that the yota axles can be built very tough. I have a regeared front axle but other than that its stock. Before I buy highsteer, ifs box, longs, locker, and possibly high pinion. Its no more $$$ to do the full width swap. Just an option for ya.
 
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