I guess since you are selling your truck, the new rig would be your DD and wheeling rig. So, a $1000 beater might not be the most dependable/daily commute friendly choice, LOL! So, assuming the budget will be opened up by a good amount-
Since it would be your DD/wheeling rig, what about a four door Tahoe/Yukon? That would make it easier for your kids' safety seats and all. The four door measures in at 117.5" wheelbase and 199.6" overall length (the same as a regular cab shorted pickup of the same vintage) vs the two door at 111.5" wheelbase and 188" overall length. The only downside is limited year selection: 1995-2000 and the fact that they are automatic only and likely push button 4wd only. (easy enough to swap out to a lever activated t-case though) Here's an example of a sweet SAS'ed one:
OR…. I have to ask….. why not a four door JK? The only downside to it that I can think of is that it has a V-6 and less towing capacity. I'd look for a good used non-Rubi, put a ARB in the rear axle and a Dynatrac/Tera Flex/Currie (whatever your favorite flavor) 44 with an ARB up front (both with say 4.56 gears), a bit of a lift with a sway bar disco kit, some 35s, bumpers, and a winch and call it done! Why would I not suggest a Rubicon? Popularity- they hold resale ridiculously well even compared to other JKs, with some careful shopping you could buy a used Sport and nicely kit it out for less than you'd likely spend on a used Rubicon.
I guess this would beg the question though, what kind of price range are you looking to stay in with the new rig??? Because although an IFS Tahoe/Yukon will be cheap initially, by the time you build it into a solid axle wheeling rig, you're likely going to have a pretty significant investment. Figure on needing a solid axle swap kit, a front Dana 44 or (preferably) Dana 60, likely a transfer case swap, springs, likely a custom engine crossmember made for the frame to clear the front axle, something in the way of re-enforcing the front frame horns (since they were never intended to support any portion of the weight of the vehicle, I have read a few solid axle swap threads where people ran into trouble n this because they didn't think to reinforce the frame horns), etc. If you can do all the work yourself, it likely won't be too bad $$$ (depending on how bling you want to go) but, if you have to pay somebody, you'll be racking up $$$ quick! Also, the IFS Tahoe/Yukon isn't very capable for wheeling stock so, figure on not having a wheeling rig for a while whilst all these mods are going on.
Anyways, not to be a buzz kill but- I'd look at the purchase price of the replacement vehicle and a realistic pricing of all the mods before you jump on anything. I have learned this the hard way- I bought my 87 K-5 for $4,400 and before I knew it, I had sunk $30k or so (IDK exactly how much, don't want to figure out) into it, got burned out and sold it for $5k! Plan BEFORE you buy!!!