whats the best carburetor?

x 2 on the the q-jet,mine works great. got mine from a carb shop in ca. it was a complete rebuild unit & setup for offroad use, though it is still fine for street use. iirc it was $200 plus shipping,all i adjusted was idle mix it has worked extremely well for 4 years. twice a year i spray carb cleaner in it & thats it.most people cant believe i run a carb it works so well.
 
Q-jet... or if you're into 2bbls, a Motorcraft model 2100 (or 2150) mounted backwards.
 
thanks guys, ill look into the q-jet. it sounds like the way to go. but has anyone had experience with a truck avenger? ive just heard they are supposed to be good
 
It's a Ford, put what belongs on it, a MC2100. Simple as all get out, reliable, and works at damn near any angle. not to mention cheap from the Junkyard, $30 and $30 rebuild kit.
 
well if i could rebuild one i would do it but i know nothing about carbs so i might have to just buy a new one. whats the difference between 2 and 4 barrel? power loss? fuel economy? or does it matter?
 
mwilliams said:
well if i could rebuild one i would do it but i know nothing about carbs so i might have to just buy a new one.
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Hogwash! A kindergartener can rebuild a 2100! I'd even be willing to walk you thru it... They have also been called "poor mans FI" due to tune ability for offroad use.

mwilliams said:
whats the difference between 2 and 4 barrel?
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2bbl has 2 venturis... 4bbl has 2 venturis (primaries) that normally supply fuel/air (just like a 2bbl) until you romp it & 2 more (secondaries) begin supplying fuel/air

mwilliams said:
power loss? fuel economy? or does it matter?
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You'd definitely have more power at WOT with a 4bbl. Fuel economy is kinda sketchy... some folks *claim* to get better mileage with a 4bbl, as the primaries are (usually smaller than those on a comparable 2bbl)... the problem arises when the secondaries are opened (usually BIGGER than those on a comparable 2bbl) which = 4 venturis sucking (more) air & spraying (more) fuel than a 2bbl. Not many folks can keep their foot out of a 4bbl to realize any savings over a 2bbl...

In the end, it all comes down to your wants/wishes and the engine. My 304 does just fine with a 2bbl...
 
mwilliams said:
well if i could rebuild one i would do it but i know nothing about carbs so i might have to just buy a new one.
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If you think you're going to buy a new carb, bolt it on and never touch it, you're VERY MISTAKEN!

If you want the most simplistic, easy to work on, easy to rebuild, Cheapest and the one you'll have to screw with the least, then you want the MC2100.

Never messed with a Q-jet, Have heard nothing but rave reviews about it. Downside, again from what I've heard, more complex than an MC2100. that's all, good carb from wqhat I understand.

Holley, great for the street and strip, but I was CONSTANTLY having to do something to that damn thing. and it SUCKED offroad. Ya, you can mod it and do this that and the other thing to it, but why when you can bolt on a MC2100 tune it and go with no mods.

Truck Avenger, suppose to be great offroad, but $$$'s!!!! Again, Why when you can grab a 2100 for $20 from a junkyard and a rebuild kit for $15-$30.

Like Dave said, a kinder gardener could rebuild one.

After Going from a Holley to an MC2100, I'd never go back for my offroad vehicle.
 
doc said:
I love these carbs, but what's the advantage of running it backwards? Just curious.
Thanks!
Doc
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I don't know these carbs but the first thing comes to my mind would be something like changing the float bowl mounting direction? My guess...

X2 on the curiosity...
 
With the MC2100 turned backwards the float bowl is to the rear. thus on Hill Acents you don't flood the carb, but then on the downhill the reverse is true. IMHO it's not worth doing. I prefer to open the float bowl up and adjust the float down about an 1/8".
 
I ran a Q-jet for years, and it did well until I started climbing. A friend of mine had a Q-jet turned backwards, it did really good, but still stumbled every now and then. I think he used an accelerator cable from a 92 Lumina, to get it to work right. He now runs propane and couldn't be happier. If you want cheap and somewhat easy a TBI from a GM is a good choice. Lots of info out there on that. I don't recommend pane if you use it a lot on the road.
 
it sounds like the motorcraft is the cheapest and most efficient way to go. what year do i need to look for and off what vehicle? can i get the rebuild kit at NAPA or autozone?
 
I run the MC carb, no probls so far. My amc 360 runs out of oil psi before itll cut off. That being said, Im still going to swap to tbi just for the peace of mind.
 
You can have the adapter......I need to see if I still have a good core 2 the shop.

D
 
mbalbritton said:
If you think you're going to buy a new carb, bolt it on and never touch it, you're VERY MISTAKEN!

. . . . . . . .

After Going from a Holley to an MC2100, I'd never go back for my offroad vehicle.
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I've bolted on and never touched 3 Holley carbs now all successfully 1 double pumper 600 on a ford 390 1 truck avenger 670 on a ford 400 and 1 truck avenger 770 on a caddy 500 all bolt on and go no issues :driver: There my favorite carb now, and if you take a look at them there are pretty easy to adjust/rebuild as well, with a much larger performance range.


However I have also ran the motorcraft 2100 on a chevy 350, and for cheapness, ease of use/adjustment/etc can't really beat it on smaller engines. I had the motorcraft at all sorts of frikin angles with no problems. On 350's and larger you can def tell a difference when you go to a larger cfm carb thou.
 
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