Discussion in 'General Tech' started by obullfish, Jul 29, 2016.
What's the opinion for a good compact jack for offroad use that will handle a TJ on 37's?
I like a jack that will lift heavy shit.. Like the one that is strapped to every douche bag jeep it truck.
Not a fan of the Hi Lift
Little bottle jack and some scraps of 2x4 and 4x4. If you have a 35 that's sitting on the rim, the bottle jack probably won't have enough throw to pick it up on the first try. But you can pick it up, throw a block under the wheel, then reset and pick again. Pretty easy to do.
I have a high lift, and I use it quite a bit, but almost never to pick up a vehicle.
King and Radflo both offer some long travel off road jacks
Cool thanks. Almost been killed by a Hi lift that slipped out trying to change a flat. They are handy to have just not for changing a flat out on the trails in my opinion.
I'm adding one of these on the new build. Cheap, much lighter than a hi lift and probably lighter than the aluminum harbor freight with skids attachment, easier to store, safe enough to air a flat or change a tire. I have two that came from my rv. Run it with my impact.
which scissors jack is that?
I agree, if you don't like the hi-lift style, a scissors jack is the way to go.
I'm on the same anti-Hilift boat as others it appears. I've come to really like bottle jacks but never looked into scissor jacks. This could turn into a great discussion.
I like the RV scissor jack idea I just hate that I traded an RV not long ago and didn't take a jack or two off.
I have a highlift and a rv scissor jack. I welded a piece of channel on top of scissor jack. I've changed tires , straightened out my low tie rod with the scissor jack. The high lift would make a great small boat anchor
The RV scissor jack looks like a pretty good way to go.
My 3rd Gen dodge has a beefy bottle jack and mount so maybe look into one of those from a junkyard.
wow here's one that goes from 4" to 30".
do the bottoms of these have holes in the feet you could use to mount to a wider platform?
Biggest downside I see w/ this compared to the HiLift is the PITA of winding forever to raise and lower. Impact adapter would be a must
I use the alum HF roll jack. Not a big fan of bottle jacks unless the ground is really level and firm- even if using something under it for support. The floor jack is bulky but I trust it and it works in everything but big rocks and mud.
We changed Cyd's tire last fall in six inches of Uwharrie slop with the same six ton Walmart hydraulic bottle jack that I paid $15 for back in 2000. Good luck doing that with a floor jack that can't roll. I mean, I broke a HF jack trying to use it on irregular asphalt.
Yeah, the floor jacks are great in the shop but a PITA anywhere else.
I'm ordering one of those 24" scissors jacks.
I don't like bottle jacks b/c (1) the base tends to be smaller, (2) the head tends to be small.
I already keep a 12" square piece of HDPE in the truck to serve as a platform for the hi-lift, I'll switch to using that as a platform for the scissors jack. Since the RV jacks at least have a flange on the top w/ bolt holes, if they don't have any on the bottom too you could at least flip them over and use those to fasten it to the platform.
Actually the biggest pain will be finding a good place to stash the long crank handle. Even though I'd plan to use a drill, would want to have that on hand for backup.
I've stacked flat rocks with a bottle jack more than once to get off the trail
Yes, holes in foot, if not drill some, and/or weld a larger foot. I intend to add a aluminum base for larger footprint. Mine has a 3/4 hex on the screw, all ready for the impact...
And conversely my son just commented this afternoon. Dad that HF jack has been around as long as I can remember...son it's 5 years older than you. Bought it when I still livedon't in Seneca
I'm on #3 since Lane was born.
Sounds like there's a lesson in there about buying cheap crap from Harbor Freight.
Probably but would you want a nice bottle jack to stop working right cause it got sunk up in mud and got grit into the seals causing them to leak?
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My philosophy is that I'd rather have to rebuild a quality unit if the seals get damaged, than to trust a cheap unit to not blow poor quality seals on its own. If the better quality unit comes with better surface finish and better seals, it might not leak after the same abuse in the first place. One unit is worth rebuilding if it leaks, one unit is worth discarding if it leaks.
I've just never seen the value in buying something crappy and then having to replace it because it doesn't work, or doesn't last, or isn't up to the task. I know opinions differ greatly about this...
Again, just different philosophies.
Even Shawn's 3 in 15 years.... Still a deal compared to a comparable quality unit....