Which one of you did this?

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Oh man this is a bummer. Im about to put a handy dandy straight edge on the tube and see what’s up.

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Doesn’t appear to be bent. Shafts came out easily and seemed to be perfect on the seal surface.

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However the crank pulley has tagged the track bar a few times, and the truss has found the oil pan a little. I’m gonna pull the housing and go over it and grind out everything, reweld, add some gussets to a few things and see if I can get him wheeling without him wanting to change a bunch of stuff.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Doesn’t appear to be bent. Shafts came out easily and seemed to be perfect on the seal surface.

70ba37e03881a7fc47f9c97ab210d8a2.jpg


However the crank pulley has tagged the track bar a few times, and the truss has found the oil pan a little. I’m gonna pull the housing and go over it and grind out everything, reweld, add some gussets to a few things and see if I can get him wheeling without him wanting to change a bunch of stuff.
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You should start a build thread..
 
Jeff B said:
You should start a build thread..
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I’ve got one for my personal vehicles but not friends that I work on. I don’t get much time to work on my own stuff. But sometimes I get interesting stuff.
 
When they may have created their own problem. Axle appears to be straight.

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Jeff B said:
What's going on here?
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I’m pretty sure everything was welded on and has way too much caster it looks as if the tops of the tires are leaning out. Which would explain the shims
 
Every d44 I have ever had had those shims to adj. Caster. Also, Fords IIRC have the screw in sleeve on the top balljoint..
 
Jeff B said:
Every d44 I have ever had had those shims to adj. Caster. Also, Fords IIRC have the screw in sleeve on the top balljoint..
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It’s got the screw in sleeves to adjust it, its HP44 from an F250 I believe. That’s why I’m wondering why both, then looked at the angle finder on the flat where the castle nut sits for the top ball joint, reading 11 with the floor only registering -1. Jeep frame is level.
 
Jeff B said:
Every d44 I have ever had had those shims to adj. Caster. Also, Fords IIRC have the screw in sleeve on the top balljoint..
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The solid axle has this for adjusting ball joint drag like a bearing. Or simply put the height between the two static cone shapes. They have absolutely nothing to do with Caster. The only option provided to adjust this on any axle was the Twin I beam group. These had split insert with a misaligned center. These had a specific degree of adjustment and came in from the top with a capture but on top. This had a lot to do with the sheet metal stamp design and unique travel of the set up. The old C bushing trailing arm type could be manipulated by a degreed bushing to a point. James Duff and others sold them. My Reid's are the same design. Concentric insert.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
When they may have created their own problem. Axle appears to be straight.

e51186a7c60c57cb299bb4679d4c8368.jpg
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That hole is concentric.....the slot just allows it to shrink the farther it goes in. No steering adjustment here.
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Read the above also. Screen shot of the two types. Yes Google renders Caster Adjusting Sleeve, blah, blah.....you can't change the axle with a concentric tapered hole.....you can make the balljoints tighter than needed.
 
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Ya'll are screwing this thread. Maybe a kind mod will move this shit out..
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Oh man this is a bummer. Im about to put a handy dandy straight edge on the tube and see what’s up.
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I know my '79 Ford 60 had 2* of positive camber milled in to the spindle face on the knuckles. Not sure if 44s did too.
 
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Found this gem...
 
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