I been out of the game for a while. If I remember right, the standard is 36” above the water line for pourous material that can’t be dried like sheet rock and wood paneling. So cut anything that got wet 36” above. You will need large duhimidifiers and fans. May be hard to rent currently so jump on that right away. Technically you are supposed to create negative air in the affected area by ducting the air out a window thru a fan or air scrubber. All the studs and bracing will dry out. You want to get a moisture meter and ideally get it to less than 20%
Insulation in a crawl space will not dry well. It will need to be removed if it’s wet. Clorox does not kill mold, it just turns it white. Since it is 80% water you basically turn it white and water it to grow more. You’ll need a real anitmicrobial solution. Tilex does kill mold from wha I remember.
Any existing mold on substrates remaining will need to be vacuumed with a HEPA filtered vac. If you’re cutting and removing, no need to vacuum. Once everything is gutted, you’re supposed to vacuum every square inch of the space even if you didn’t visibly see mold and then spray and wipe it all down with the anti-microbial agent.
The block walls will dry out in time with a dehu and fans running. They’ll probably show signs of efflorescence over time, that’s normal. That’s just salt and other minerals being brought out from the passing water. It doesn’t hurt anything, it’s good to educate the customer on it up front. You can clean it with something called Custom Masonry Cleaner by Prosoco, which I sell.
I’ve forgotten more about that line of work than I care to admit. Some standard may have changed.
@moldman05 may be more up to date.
@XJsavage also worked for the same company as me years ago.
