Who has experience with GM 2500's?

C.Berry

C.Berry

Bad News
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Location
Blacksburg, Va
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Gonna drive it Tom, any issues I'm not aware of with 99 2500s? The tbi is newest small block I've run and instead of upgrading all my shit on a 1500 to what this has already is rather save some time! Thanks fellas y'all are like my mechanical advisors! :beer: Owner says it has billet distributor and new spider injectors no issues they know of!
 
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Vortec 350... 250 HP, 4l80e, 241, 14 bolt. Pretty much a win across the board.
 
I have a 99 2500 5.7 with 323k miles. All driveline parts are original. If the intake gasket has not been changed it will leak. Because of age hoses, plastic connectors and radiator will go bad. The 5.7 will tow smaller trailers fine but strain with over 5k lbs.
 
Good to hear it's a landscaping truck from my understanding with that low of miles it should be good to go I'll post the turnout Tom!
 
What will you do when the 4x4 sticker goes bad in may?
 
scrape it off and roll on! Hopefully having a heavier duty burb will save me some cash on dumb shit my 1500 was picking my pockets from! Then I can invest that cash to my blazer monstrosity i wanna build and I can have a real 4x4 sticker with black mountain ohv on the window!!
 
Well I bought it it ran great no leaks underneath only rust in body is the roof you can see in pic! I thought these had ff14 but it's actually a sf14!? Got it for a 1000$ I feel like I got a deal first thing to address will be intake gasket, then brakes felt a little soft but still stopped good! Anything else that is a must do on this setup to keep it going? Was gonna do trans and engine flush this week and flush both differentials tcase need flushed out or just checked? Heard the 241 is somewhat decent tcase
 
HEad light lens are most likely foggy.
Brakes on these are notoriously "spongy" even when everything is right.
The brakes on the semi float 14 bolt, is the same shoes and hardware as the 10 bolt in the 1500's
The only brake advantage over the 10 bolt is that you have bigger drums for better heat displacement
When you do the intake gasket(if it hasn't already been done) Go ahead and check the idler pulley, tension pulley, and change out the water pump and thermostat too.
241 is a decent case, as long as you keep fluid level checked.
Only issue I have had with mine is what I have noted and I have had to replace cross over pipe, TBI TPS, and one O2 sensor.
 
Sweet that's all stuff I have planned to replace asap anyway especially waterpump bc I know it'll go soon as I need to go somewhere it's a huge difference in handling/ comfort compared to my 94 burb and its had both doffs replaced and whole front suspension overhauled so I'm overly stoked about this deal! Call the popo hoe!!! Yeah not sure if the owner just didn't know what he had or if he just needed it gone even the lady at DMV said wow you got a deal I was like you have no idea!! Thanks for info hopefully I can sell my 94 quick and get this thing up to Par so I can put it to work I'll post pics of it soon as I pick it up
 
Pyo? Wth?
 
Are the idler pulleys on this the same deal with 88-98 and they go bad every year? Just curious if I should go the extra $ on ball joints, tre and idler/pitman on this or if the 2500s last longer? My 94 ate two ball joints control arm bushing and idler arm in 11 months
 
C.Berry said:
Pyo? Wth?
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Stock wheels for 99-20xx? (2010 maybe?) Chevy 1500HD, suburban HD, 2500/HD, 3500 SRW trucks. 16" size gives lots of cheap tire options, they are super light (for a truck wheel), can be had for cheap, and look good on the older trucks.:
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Be careful of the transfer case. The oil slinger/pun thingy can come loose after many miles and start rubbing on the inside of the case and eventually wear a small hole in it. If not careful, it can drain your oil and lock up the case. This is a fairly common issue.

It happened to me years ago while traveling out of town 5+ hours and I know of several others it has happened to. It's an easy fix if you catch it early but it requires pulling of the case and disassembly.

Only real way to check it is by pulling the case so unless you see an oil leak coming from the case housing, it's a guessing game as to whether or not it's in good shape internally.

With that many miles, I'd bed $ that it is rubbing the case but maybe hasn't worn a hole in the case yet.

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Oh gotcha I seen a set of those at pick and pull for 50$ last month
But I was looking for 6 lugs at that time! Thanks I'll check tcase for that visual sign and maybe start pulling backup parts from pick and pull for when shit breaks! Greatly appreciate the advice good stuff to know for sure!
 
Is the replacement part for tcase issue a upgrade or will it happen again after so long? This is my first push button 4x4 btw very strange not having a lever on the floor I feel like I'm cheating almost lol
 
C.Berry said:
Is the replacement part for tcase issue a upgrade or will it happen again after so long? This is my first push button 4x4 btw very strange not having a lever on the floor I feel like I'm cheating almost lol
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There is a fix for the transfer case but depending on how involved you want to get it could be a one time thing or it may happen again. The upgrade is generally supposed to be a one time thing. If there is a home in the case, you may need to replace the back half. I used JB weld as my hole was small and the case wasn't cracked. It held for another 50k miles before I sold it.
 
Sweet my plan is to pull a 241 and do the upgrade then have it in the shop ready to go in if I see any issues arising! Thanks
 
For the brakes, empty the reservoir, refill with new fluid, and bleed. It made a noticeable difference on my 01. The old fluid was black.


If the trans fluid is good and red and doesn't smell burnt, I'd just let that ride. Sometimes fluid changes, and especially flushes, on old high mileage stuff can cause more problems.
 
You can swap on a master cylinder from a 99-02 and it really improves the pedal feel, from what I've read.
 
Lol yeah so out of all the issue it could have what I've got is no brake lights/signals/reverse lights in the rear
 
Bought both new circuit boards for back and didn't fix it I may have some bad bulbs. It only one was black inside brakes worked for a second when I unplugged the pass side cover and took the black bulb out put a good one in and no go
 
It has a brake controller so I'm guessing I have a bad wire on this thing!?? I also noticed it has a slow acceleration from dead stop unless I get on the throttle unlike my 94 which would put ya back in the seat a little bit these vortexs are know to have power in that just after cruise it picks up and goes on jnterstate tho only soft codes it has is o2 and abssensors no hard codes...
 
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