Wiring Up 220 Volt

[ckruzer]

This is an easy 1 hour project.
As a fellow landlord I am uncomfortable with the language you used about having permission and any sheetrock hole up to quarter size.
Are you using this tenent of the lease agreement as your permission or has he explicitly stated he is fine with adding an electrical outlet?

Whoever does it, dont knock a hole out of the can and shove a wire through it. Fish it from outside in with a proper connector already on the wire so you can add the locknut inside the panel.
Depending on what size circuit you plan to run a quarter sized hole may not be big enough.


Also, are you in Asheville proper? If so Asheville hsas a specific city electrical license and anyone licensed in NC who does this for you as a friend, if caught, is risking their state contractor's license or journeyman's card if they dont have an Asheville City license.

Being as this isnt the garage, that is all I am going to say about that.

Appreciate the candor. Explicit. Outside city limits. Property manager can authorize the electrical panel and up to a quarter size hole without the LL approval. Takes several weeks to get in touch with LL for particular reasons. Im sure if i press the issue and wait, I can install in the wall. However I will have no choice but to leave it and I wont get reimbursed.

 

[RatLabGuy]

I have used may of those "old work" side screw mount boxes...find a stud, clean strong install - especially w/ larger 220v plugs.

So looking closely at that thing - seems there is a lot of wasted interior space that would make it harder to fit fixtures that have a large back (e.g. smart switches etc). What's up with the extra protrusions behind the screw mounts, and those triangular sections?
It's like the guy design this wanted it to be strong but had never mounted a box that had > 2 wires in it

 

[doc]

I used them for 20A switches, two-gang w/ divider for 20A outlet & coax or cat 5 on wall mounts, etc.

GFCI or large body smart devices would be difficult, if not impossible...talking single gang, of course.

 

[Fabrik8]

oh cool, had not seen those before. I like that waaay better than the typical ones that have to grab the drywall.
Sucks you lose so much interior fill space though.

I discovered those recently, and they work amazing. The cool thing is that they are an old work box that can attach every bit as securely as the best new work boxes. The holes for device attachment come pre-tapped and everything. Some of them lose more interior space than others though, yeah. Not a bad tradeoff in most situations though, as you probably shouldn't be doing enough box fill that it would be a problem.

 

[Fabrik8]

So looking closely at that thing - seems there is a lot of wasted interior space that would make it harder to fit fixtures that have a large back (e.g. smart switches etc). What's up with the extra protrusions behind the screw mounts, and those triangular sections?
It's like the guy design this wanted it to be strong but had never mounted a box that had > 2 wires in it

It looks like the 22+ model is made for GFCIs, etc., with extra depth.

When I was looking at them in the store the other week, it appeared that everything around the screw mount was to strengthen that area, and to make it easier to mold. I had it all figured out once you look at it in terms of draw sections and ejector direction for injection molding (yes, I'm a bit nerdy). I agree though, it likely could have been designed differently and be just as effective. The ceiling and fan boxes and multimount stuff (all of the brownish plastic) are much newer and are a better design it seems.
The triangular sections in the back corners are wire grips, you just pop them open with a screwdriver and they hold the wire with a "V".

 

[Ron]

Appreciate the candor. Explicit. Outside city limits. Property manager can authorize the electrical panel and up to a quarter size hole without the LL approval. Takes several weeks to get in touch with LL for particular reasons. Im sure if i press the issue and wait, I can install in the wall. However I will have no choice but to leave it and I wont get reimbursed.

If it's all on the up and up, tell @Jody Treadway to buy lunch/dinner and we can add it. 50 bucks tops in material and it will look like it's always been there....you seem like a contact worth knowing.

 

[rockcity]

What I did in college...

Direct wire an outlet to an appropriate breaker. Find open space and install breaker. Voila! Remove breaker when done. No damage to the wall or fishing wires through studs. You just have to put up with going into a live panel every time you want to run the welder.

Not saying it's safe or the right way, because it's not. It's what I did in college. I wouldn't do it now. Not necessaitly right, but it worked.

 

[Chris_Keziah]

What I did in college... [emoji38]

Direct wire an outlet to an appropriate breaker. Find open space and install breaker. Voila! Remove breaker when done. No damage to the wall or fishing wires through studs. You just have to put up with going into a live panel every time you want to run the welder.

Not saying it's safe or the right way, because it's not. It's what I did in college. I wouldn't do it now. Not necessaitly right, but it worked.

Me personally I'd do pretty much exactly this with the exception of I'd put a knockout in the center bottom of the panel. Run SO cord out that with a cord grip and the outlet wired on the other end. No holes in the drywall and when you move out, just pull your stuff out and insert a knockout plug.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[ckruzer]

If it's all on the up and up, tell @Jody Treadway to buy lunch/dinner and we can add it. 50 bucks tops in material and it will look like it's always been there....you seem like a contact worth knowing.

Sounds like a plan! Thanks! Seeing as how cutting a hole gotta wait for the approval.