Wanted: 4.0 Wiz and a Shop

JSJJ388

JSJJ388

GREEN GREMLIN
Joined
Aug 31, 2016
Location
HAMPTONVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA
So after a few years of being down, I'm finally getting around to getting my jeep going. I'm looking for someone with more knowledge than me and the proper tools to help me get it going. Willing to pay in cash, beer, pizza, or trades, or a combination. Willing to haul it to you and looking to learn from it instead of just paying someone. Still a few weeks from being ready with all that's going on, but trying to get a plan together. Closer to yadkin county the better, but will drive for someone who knows their stuff.

On to what's wrong. See question thread here 92 4.0 SURGING AND HARD START .

Short version is I swapped in a motor that's supposed to be a mild 4.2L build that ran strong when it ran. Got it put in and it's hard to start, backfires through the manifold, and skips at high rpm. I've been told the distributor isn't set right and timing is off. Try as I might, I can't get it set right so I'm tapping out.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the help, this is always a great crowd. Mods, feel free to move if I put this in the wrong spot.
 
TTT

Still looking to get the jeep going and get back on the trails. Beer and food usually motivates this crowd! :smokin:
 
I'm too far away but I'll tell you how to fix it. You'll need a 3/4" socket and ratchet, spark plug socket, 13mm wrench, flat head screwdriver and a 3/16" drill bit.
Remove dizzy with the 13 mm wrench, remove #1 spark plug, spin engine over by hand until you feel compression through the #1 plug hole, then continue to rotate the engine until you line up the timing mark on the balancer (small indentation on face) with the TDC mark on the timing cover, you're at #1 TDC now. Reinstall plug.
Remove the cam sensor from the dizzy. You'll see a 3/16" hole on the bottom of the distributor and a corresponding 3/16" hole on the flat plate attached to the dizzy shaft, place the drill bit (or small phillips driver, etc to lock the shaft to the dizzy body, so that it won't spin. Now the dizzy is locked in place.
Using the flat screwdriver, rotate the oil pump (what the dizzy spins in the block) to the 10:00 position.
Drop in the dizzy until it is flush with the block. You may need to turn the oil pump a little bit to accomplish this. When the dizzy is flush with the block with the dizzy locked, bolt down the dizzy and remove the drill bit.
Reinstall cam sensor, cap and fire it up.
 
Jody Treadway said:
I'm too far away but I'll tell you how to fix it. You'll need a 3/4" socket and ratchet, spark plug socket, 13mm wrench, flat head screwdriver and a 3/16" drill bit.
Remove dizzy with the 13 mm wrench, remove #1 spark plug, spin engine over by hand until you feel compression through the #1 plug hole, then continue to rotate the engine until you line up the timing mark on the balancer (small indentation on face) with the TDC mark on the timing cover, you're at #1 TDC now. Reinstall plug.
Remove the cam sensor from the dizzy. You'll see a 3/16" hole on the bottom of the distributor and a corresponding 3/16" hole on the flat plate attached to the dizzy shaft, place the drill bit (or small phillips driver, etc to lock the shaft to the dizzy body, so that it won't spin. Now the dizzy is locked in place.
Using the flat screwdriver, rotate the oil pump (what the dizzy spins in the block) to the 10:00 position.
Drop in the dizzy until it is flush with the block. You may need to turn the oil pump a little bit to accomplish this. When the dizzy is flush with the block with the dizzy locked, bolt down the dizzy and remove the drill bit.
Reinstall cam sensor, cap and fire it up.
Click to expand...
Bowing Down Waynes World GIF
 
Jody Treadway said:
I'm too far away but I'll tell you how to fix it. You'll need a 3/4" socket and ratchet, spark plug socket, 13mm wrench, flat head screwdriver and a 3/16" drill bit.
Remove dizzy with the 13 mm wrench, remove #1 spark plug, spin engine over by hand until you feel compression through the #1 plug hole, then continue to rotate the engine until you line up the timing mark on the balancer (small indentation on face) with the TDC mark on the timing cover, you're at #1 TDC now. Reinstall plug.
Remove the cam sensor from the dizzy. You'll see a 3/16" hole on the bottom of the distributor and a corresponding 3/16" hole on the flat plate attached to the dizzy shaft, place the drill bit (or small phillips driver, etc to lock the shaft to the dizzy body, so that it won't spin. Now the dizzy is locked in place.
Using the flat screwdriver, rotate the oil pump (what the dizzy spins in the block) to the 10:00 position.
Drop in the dizzy until it is flush with the block. You may need to turn the oil pump a little bit to accomplish this. When the dizzy is flush with the block with the dizzy locked, bolt down the dizzy and remove the drill bit.
Reinstall cam sensor, cap and fire it up.
Click to expand...
Alright, followed this step by step and here's what I got. Gave it a few shots of starting fluid since gas is no good at this point I assume.

 
Jody Treadway said:
Battery seems really weak. I'd start with charging it up before doing anything else.
Click to expand...

Battery out of my truck. But I'll top it off and try again.
 
Was this a engine rebuild? If so you might need to recheck your timing marks on your crank and cam you might be off a tooth or 2.
 
LT1JEEP said:
Was this a engine rebuild? If so you might need to recheck your timing marks on your crank and cam you might be off a tooth or 2.
Click to expand...
I didn't build it, no. But it is supposedly a mild stroker. It was out on a stand when we picked it up, but saw video of it running.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Battery seems really weak. I'd start with charging it up before doing anything else.
Click to expand...
Finally circled back to the gremlin. I reset the timing just to be sure. It still cranked over slow, but the battery was fresh off the charger. Wouldn't start still. But it didn't backfire either.

I'll have to order a spark tester as mine apparently got crushed. What else should I look for? It's got compression, but I haput a gauge on it. Checked for codes, and it was clear. Tried starting fluid, but no dice.
 
OnlyOneDR said:
Clean all the battery cable attachment points and the grounds, reconnect. Weak cranking with a good battery means a poor connection somewhere.
Click to expand...
I'll clean grounds and try a bigger battery i guess. That one is probably 10 years old, but cranks my truck fine.
 
orange150 said:
I’ve also ran into an issue with battery cables being corroded inside the sheathing
Click to expand...
this, check the starter for a voltage drop while it's starting.
 
JSJJ388 said:
Finally circled back to the gremlin. I reset the timing just to be sure. It still cranked over slow, but the battery was fresh off the charger. Wouldn't start still. But it didn't backfire either.

I'll have to order a spark tester as mine apparently got crushed. What else should I look for? It's got compression, but I haput a gauge on it. Checked for codes, and it was clear. Tried starting fluid, but no dice.
Click to expand...
On my 94 if it does not turn over fast enough it will not start. That starter sounded weak in your video. Either from voltage drop or it's going out itself.
 
ghost said:
On my 94 if it does not turn over fast enough it will not start. That starter sounded weak in your video. Either from voltage drop or it's going out itself.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll put a tractor battery in it and try again. If it'll rum, I'll buy a new battery.
 
benXJ said:
are the valve lifters adjusted to spec?
Click to expand...
That's a thought. If a fresh battery doesn't start it, that's an easy check.
 
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