Getting rusted drum off

RatLabGuy said:
How would one cut it so as to not F up the axle hub and hardware inside? Can't just slice down the middle of the face.
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Cutting torch.
Start at a top edge and when you get through the drum and hit the hub face it will blow slag everywhere, then start moving down.
I have way too much experience removing bearing races like this with no damage.
Soooo, all disclaimers apply, your own risk, eye protection, lather rinse repeat, etc. etc.
 
So I finally got it off ...
And I gotta say not one of you fawkers had the right idea. :flipoff2:

After dragging my feet on the PITA of cutting up that big ass drum and doing some more Googling I learned I just needed a bigger tool!

Enter the "Brake drum removal tool"
AKA big-ass mamajama 2 jaw puller! Also likely useful as a mondo gear or seal puller!

IMG_20250505_205343976_HDR.jpg


Just load that bitch up!
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I'm not gonna lie once that thing was cranked down and under stress, and barely moving w the 3' pipe on the ratchet there was some serious pucker factor thinking about how much stress it was under.

But it eventually POPPED like @CasterTroy 's cherry, nice and loud and stress relieving.... But still had to be hand cranked all the way off (heehee) bc of so much rust and drag inside.

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...and now I get to do what I start out, figure out why my parking brake ain't actuating.
 
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So... You're gonna hit the axle boss with some muriatic acid when you put it back on, right?
 
shawn said:
So... You're gonna hit the axle boss with some muriatic acid when you put it back on, right?
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Fuck no. I wanna make sure Future Dave hates Past Dave as much as I do right now.
Its important to maintain consistency.
 
Check the parking brake bell cranks, those usually seize up on Toyotas and the parking brake stops working. Slather them in antisize if they are fine or with the rebuild parts. Stupid design IMO.
 
gslander said:
Check the parking brake bell cranks, those usually seize up on Toyotas and the parking brake stops working. Slather them in antisize if they are fine or with the rebuild parts. Stupid design IMO.
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Yeah but Dorman makes a really complete rebuild kit for them. Did it on my ‘89 PU. E-brake was like a new penny!
 
Axle shaft out of housing, block of hard wood on the floor, slam the shaft down on the lug studs as hard as possible for as many times as it takes.
 
gslander said:
Check the parking brake bell cranks, those usually seize up on Toyotas and the parking brake stops working. Slather them in antisize if they are fine or with the rebuild parts. Stupid design IMO.
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yep thats pretty much what has happened. When I pull the lever, the line gets tight but they barely move.
skyhighZJ said:
Yeah but Dorman makes a really complete rebuild kit for them. Did it on my ‘89 PU. E-brake was like a new penny!
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hm I'll dig for that
 
RatLabGuy said:
yep thats pretty much what has happened. When I pull the lever, the line gets tight but they barely move.

hm I'll dig for that
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Get the rebuild kit! The brake on my Tacoma seized up even with daily usage, dumb design.
 
gslander said:
Get the rebuild kit! The brake on my Tacoma seized up even with daily usage, dumb design.
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just ordered!

I discovered the axle face flange is ever so slightly distorted, just enough that the drum doesn't want to slide on bc the center bore hole was originally a really tight match. Just to match it drivable I was able to get it back on by tightening the lugnuts down and pulling it on, so I'll have to us that mondo puller to get it off again.

So really I need to replace the axle, but thats a PITA bc of the bearing being pressed into the hub etc (yes, see above slamming into blocked of wood).

I've seen that for some other vehicles you can just buy a whole axle already pressed into a hub, Dorman makes those, but I'm not seeing one for this vintage Toy... is there?
Given everything is so crusty it wouldn't be terrible for me to have to go ahead and take it all apart and replace anyway, I just don't feel like messing w/ that bearing.
 
RatLabGuy said:
just ordered!

I discovered the axle face flange is ever so slightly distorted, just enough that the drum doesn't want to slide on bc the center bore hole was originally a really tight match. Just to match it drivable I was able to get it back on by tightening the lugnuts down and pulling it on, so I'll have to us that mondo puller to get it off again.

So really I need to replace the axle, but thats a PITA bc of the bearing being pressed into the hub etc (yes, see above slamming into blocked of wood).

I've seen that for some other vehicles you can just buy a whole axle already pressed into a hub, Dorman makes those, but I'm not seeing one for this vintage Toy... is there?
Given everything is so crusty it wouldn't be terrible for me to have to go ahead and take it all apart and replace anyway, I just don't feel like messing w/ that bearing.
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why not just sand the face down so that the drum fits easier? Put it on jackstands in gear and let it spin while you do it, and it will be mostly true.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
why not just sand the face down so that the drum fits easier? Put it on jackstands in gear and let it spin while you do it, and it will be mostly true.
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I considered this but I don't have a good tool that would fit between the vertical hub face and the lugs sticking out.
Although now that I think of it, a fresh 4.5" cutting wheel might be juuuust enough.
 
gslander said:
Check the parking brake bell cranks, those usually seize up on Toyotas and the parking brake stops working. Slather them in antisize if they are fine or with the rebuild parts. Stupid design IMO.
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Well it is most definitely seized...
IMG_20250524_161117399_HDR.jpg

IMG_20250524_161126996_HDR.jpg

And if some nimrod at Toyota in the 80s knew his science of metals this wouldn't be a problem. It isn't design problem, it's chemistry.

The crank housing seems to be cast aluminum or some kind of alloy, while the arm is just good old steel. So everywhere they are touching one another is a potential for electrolosys. Add in some dirty water, carrying electrolytes, which will inevitably get stuck inside of the boot that covers the thing, and now you have essentially a sealed battery. The housing doesn't stand a chance of not corroding.

Anti-seize will only last so long against it
 
Honestly the biggest PITA was that the retainer pin for the brake cable connector to the top of the clamps was solidly rusted into place on both sides.
I had to pull the cable most of the way off the truck and grind down the heads to get the damn pins out just so I could re use the cable ends on the new bell clamps
IMG_20250524_161254019_HDR.jpg
 
FWIW. When I put it back together I left the rubber boots off on mine so I could flood it with PB Bastard or the similar and “prevent” corrosion causing material buildup. YMMV.
 
skyhighZJ said:
FWIW. When I put it back together I left the rubber boots off on mine so I could flood it with PB Bastard or the similar and “prevent” corrosion causing material buildup. YMMV.
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Yeah Im tempted now to cut those boots off and lube the piss out of them.
The honest truth is I'll likely forget about them and never treat again until I have a problem
 
RatLabGuy said:
Well it is most definitely seized...
View attachment 438670
View attachment 438671
And if some nimrod at Toyota in the 80s knew his science of metals this wouldn't be a problem. It isn't design problem, it's chemistry.

The crank housing seems to be cast aluminum or some kind of alloy, while the arm is just good old steel. So everywhere they are touching one another is a potential for electrolosys. Add in some dirty water, carrying electrolytes, which will inevitably get stuck inside of the boot that covers the thing, and now you have essentially a sealed battery. The housing doesn't stand a chance of not corroding.

Anti-seize will only last so long against it
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They just have promoted whomever designed that, to head of Tacoma frame coating since it's the same issue there:laughing:
 
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