First time Jeep purchase - seeking advice

OmarDontScare

New Member
Joined
May 25, 2026
Location
Raleigh
Hey everyone — long-time car enthusiast, first-time Jeep buyer here in Raleigh. I've been researching a 1972 CJ-5 in Winston-Salem and would love some advice from people who actually know these things before I pull the trigger.
winstonsalem.craigslist.org

1972 Jeep CJ-5 for sale by owner - Winston Salem, NC - craigslist

This orange beauty gets all the compliments on the road so get used to smiling and saying "thanks!" The only repairs needed since I purchased it in Jan '2019 was a new carburetor in 2019 and a new...
winstonsalem.craigslist.org winstonsalem.craigslist.org

A little about me: I own a 2012 Corvette that I've never touched mechanically. I can change a tire, a battery, and check my oil — that's the extent of my experience. I'm not a mechanic and I've never worked on a car. I want to change that, and part of the appeal of an old Jeep is having something simple and forgiving to learn on without the intimidation factor of a dense modern engine bay.

What I'm looking for: primarily open-air cruising — doors off, no top, summer driving. Not a trail rig. I want something with character that I can slowly learn to maintain and make my own over time.

The Jeep: 1972 CJ-5, 258ci inline-six, 3-speed manual. Owned by the same person since 2019. They've been extremely transparent: new carburetor (2019), new starter (2020), new KO2 tires and wheels (2019). They provided a bunch of undercarriage photos upon request. Frame appears solid in photos - some surface rust, but nothing unusual for its age (I would ask a mechanic to look closely at this for the PPI). Steel body. Clean title. The seller is offering to drop it at his trusted local shop for a PPI, which I plan to take him up on.

Known issues the seller disclosed upfront:
- Speedometer and odometer not working (odometer stuck at 37,138 — actual mileage unknown)
- Windshield wipers not working
- Fuel gauge not working
- Several paint chips on hood and fenders exposing bare metal/minor surface corrosion starting

Asking price is $10,000, which includes a $1,300 Bestop soft top (new), full soft doors, and a new replacement driver seat still in the box. My understanding is a fully sorted, pristine equivalent would be $18-22k, so the price feels fair for the condition.

My take on the known issues (please correct me if I'm wrong):
- Wipers, speedo, and fuel gauge feel like fixable issues — wiper motor or switch, speedometer cable, fuel sender — none of which seem catastrophically expensive or complex. Am I right about that?
- Paint chips: I'm planning to hit these with rust converter and touch-up paint before they progress. Is that the right approach on a steel body?

Things I'm still uncertain about:
- The 3-speed transmission: is this a significant limitation for casual street driving compared to the 4-speed? I'm assuming I'll be staying off the highways.
- Parts availability: I've looked at Rock Auto and Omix-ADA and parts seem very available and reasonably priced. Does that match your experience?
- Anything specific to 1972 CJ-5s that I should have the PPI mechanic look at closely beyond the obvious frame/undercarriage rust check?

I was considering Tooltime Jeep in Clemmons for the PPI, and the seller mentioned they have been going to West End Auto Clinic for years and recommended them - any thoughts on either of these, or a better place to inspect the Jeep?

Thanks in advance — any advice from people who've owned or worked on these is genuinely appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the forum. Imo, an old jeep is a great platform to learn from. They are simple and easy to get parts for, oem and aftermarket.

I really like a CJ5, but I would keep my eyes out for a CJ7. They tend to drive better with a little longer wheelbase. I'm not sure how tall you are, but I wouldn't want a CJ5 if I was really over 5'10".

The drivetrain in the 72 you linked is a great platform just to putt around with. I actually like driving a 3 speed. Off road, they are terrible. You can run on the hwy with it, but it won't win any races, for sure. In 76 they got a better frame and the CJ7 was introduced.

The main concern with one is rust. They are bad in several areas. Paint chips really shouldn't be a concern. The frame and tub underneath should be inspected well.

I noticed that it has a body lift. I'm not much of a fan in that respect.

Wiring can be a mess on them, but there really won't be a lot in there. So fixing gauges and all is not terrible. Fuel gauge could mean dropping the gas tank for the sender, so don't discount that.

Tool time is probably a good place to take it. They should be capable of inspection.

Value is what someone is willing to pay for it. So, that is in the eye of the beholder and really all over the place.
 
My first Jeep was a 76 CJ7 with a 4.2, 3spd, with manual steering and manual drum brakes. It got the job done, but I wouldn't recommend it, haha. First thing I did was convert it to power steering and front disc brakes. Made it much better to drive. It still did not drive great, haha. Then put a 2-3" lift and some 32" tires on it so it definitely wouldn't drive good :D

The 3spd requires some clutching to get going, but its fine if you're not trying to run interstate speeds. The 4.2 is a solid motor. The short wheelbase of a CJ5 will make it feel more "fun", but a CJ7 is a better driver and more spacious.

As long as you are buying it for the character, and not for reliability or a daily driver, you can't go wrong with the experience of an old jeep. But it will force you to learn how to fix stuff. This is a solid forum for advice, so welcome aboard!
 
$10k seems high for a cj5 unless it’s in really good shape which could draw $30k+. Condition is everything.

You will be terrified driving this on the highway over 50, might be a hoot but I wouldn’t expect to do more than cruise a few towns over for a car show. They are narrow and short with vague steering and no overdrive. At 30 or under on gravel roads they are a dream, especially slow picking at a rough trail, you could outdrive a modern rubicon. Gravel roads, yes please

A cj5 is a fun toy if you like to tinker, there will always be a leak squeak or rattle to tend to

For 10k you can get a really nice yj with a 5 speed inline 6 and fuel injection. Since you don’t like doing your own mechanic work I’d recommend the fuel injection. Carbs need adjusted seasonally for best performance.

The yj has wider axles longer wheelbase better fuel economy and power better gearing but still gives the rugged jeep open air feel. They are comfortable at highway and even interstate speeds and CAN keep up in traffic, any old jeep will be passed by every Kia hamstermobile these days, and some drivers are jerks and blow by you just because your open air.

All this to say the aging cj5 with only chineese part sources available is not ideal for a driver, more for a collector
 
Shreddinlettuce said:
For 10k you can get a really nice yj with a 5 speed inline 6 and fuel ininjection
Click to expand...
I thought about giving this a mention. Didn't know of he was trying to stay classic or not. If he wants to work on something, the cj would offer more tinkering. But, I agree with the power and driveability. Overall, just a better vehicle with the YJ.

I thought about offering my CYJ up, but haven't 100% decided on selling yet.
 
I forgot to mention that there were millions of xj made and they share all major drivetrain and powertrain components with the yj so parts are plentiful for the early to mid 90s jeeps
 
You are approaching this correctly in the terms of wanting to learn by immersion because you will have to learn to repair and maintainand these are pretty simple rigs. Personally if you buy this one, I think you'll have buyer's remorse pretty quickly. It's priced too high for the condition that it's in even though its pretty clean. Y'all tell me if I'm wrong but I am seeing a body lift. That means it really has no upgraded suspension so it will be sloppy riding and will sway in turns more than a regular Jeep. The paint is marginal at best and it def has body filler over who knows what. Not uncommon for an old rig but expect more of the separating and rusting through as it ages. I think this is more of a $4000-$5000 rig at best.
And yes on the CJ7 if at all possible. As a matter of fact I would check with @amcjeepman and see if he has one for sale or knows where one is. Or let him check out any Jeep you are interested in. He's the MAN on CJs!
Spraying rust converter on the rust spots will only slow them down, not repair them but it will help.
A Jeep 3 spd vs a 4 spd doesn't give you a taller highway gear, It gives you a lower 1st gear to get started off with.
"My understanding is a fully sorted, pristine equivalent would be $18-22k" That is the ASKING price, that doesn't mean they are getting that.
Basically most of the stuff under the dash isn't working. Not a deal breaker but for $10k it should be.

You came to the right place but IMO Keep looking. Good luck with your search
 
If we are gonna recommend a newer generation, I'd skip the YJ and go to a 97-06 TJ. The 97s are now basically 30 years old :eek: and a TJ is going to give you the modern reliability and power of fuel injection, 5 or 6spd tranny, much nicer interior and ride, but still maintain that "simple" jeep feel and proper round headlights. $10k will get you a nice one all day long.
 
A Jeep 3 spd vs a 4 spd doesn't give you a taller highway gear, It gives you a lower 1st gear to get started off with.

6:1 is common on 4 speeds 3:1 on 3 speeds it’s more of an off-road gear that only gets used off-road
 
jeepinmatt said:
If we are gonna recommend a newer generation, I'd skip the YJ and go to a 97-06 TJ. The 97s are now basically 30 years old :eek: and a TJ is going to give you the modern reliability and power of fuel injection, 5 or 6spd tranny, much nicer interior and ride, but still maintain that "simple" jeep feel and proper round headlights. $10k will get you a nice one all day long.
Click to expand...
Tj is a good choice but not as “classic of a look and feel” there’s really not much improved besides comfort due to the coil suspension stereo and air con. Yj is definitely more of a simple jeep from an experience standpoint. I’ve owned both and would take a yj in stock form all day cause leafs give so much more feedback light wheeling that adds to the excitement without being dangerous or tearing junk up. Tj is a modders dream but I would take a yj over tj in stock form tj if bolt on mods are anticipated yj for big and simple with leafs and tons
 
Cons: Narrow track axles and narrow wheelbase. Drum brakes. If the engine is original there is a good chance it is a 232 not a 258. I would want to see the letters and numbers on the engine block. As Matt mentioned for 10 grand you could get a TJ which will have more drivability.
 
I say the YJ also or a much newer 7 from the 80s. Disk brakes up front are a game changer on and off road. I think the TJ is a still a bit more electronics based for learning on though. But occasionally easier to diagnose since it has and OBD. Yes the YJ has square headlights gasp!!! But it is a good mix between the two. Just dont get a 4 banger.
 
Shreddinlettuce said:
Tj is a good choice but not as “classic of a look and feel” there’s really not much improved besides comfort due to the coil suspension stereo and air con. Yj is definitely more of a simple jeep from an experience standpoint. I’ve owned both and would take a yj in stock form all day cause leafs give so much more feedback light wheeling that adds to the excitement without being dangerous or tearing junk up. Tj is a modders dream but I would take a yj over tj in stock form tj if bolt on mods are anticipated yj for big and simple with leafs and tons
Click to expand...

No fries said:
I say the YJ also or a much newer 7 from the 80s. Disk brakes up front are a game changer on and off road. I think the TJ is a still a bit more electronics based for learning on though. But occasionally easier to diagnose since it has and OBD. Yes the YJ has square headlights gasp!!! But it is a good mix between the two. Just dont get a 4 banger.
Click to expand...
Electronics are better sorted and probably less vacuum crap on a TJ. Early YJs also weren’t fuel injected. To me a YJ has the cons of a CJ without the pros of a TJ. 🤷‍♂️
 
Back
Top