Copper Crawler buggy build

[89wrangler]

Looking great! Man I wish you were closer so I could lend a hand. I really like your work ethic "work smart, not hard, with a beer kicker"

 

[mcutler]

Yea man, me too, come on up this weekend help set up some links.

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[Mountain Ram]

Can't wait to see it on the trail... I like the look of the headlights!

 

[mcutler]

thanks for all the comps guys!

-stll debating on rear radiator, last truggy i had used that with no luck, concerned the reverse LT1 water pump m ay be overworked, ideas?

thanks Ram, i'm diggn the lights too

a little progress tonight, got axles tubes cleaned and ready for truss work and link tabs, also picked up some new charger fenders; to see if i can make the body lines work and also how narrow the hood will need to be.

 

[mcutler]

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[mcutler]

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[loose cannon]

strech the front end out long fender's, long hood, long wheel base

 

[drkelly]

thanks for all the comps guys!
-stll debating on rear radiator, last truggy i had used that with no luck, concerned the reverse LT1 water pump m ay be overworked, ideas?

John Thomas runs an LT1 with a rear radiator in his black Toyota Tacoma cab truck. The radiator is the stock Tacoma unit (mounted behind the cab), and for a fan he is running an electric one off a Volvo car. He hasn't had any trouble with it.

Build thread here with pictures:
http://muddevils4x4.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=348

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

you can always get an electric helper pump if you dont think it can keep up.

 

[mcutler]

Ok guys question: 1-1/4 heims, 3/4 bolt- grade 5 or 8, fine or coarse, nylock or lock washer?

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[sqrl$$]

I say grade 8 f/c. You cannot go wrong with overkill. 5 is probably strong enough, but why question it. I always go nylocks b/c sometimes you need the nuts to stay without having to have them cranked down super tight. Just my $.02

 

[T-bone71]

I say grade 8 f/c. You cannot go wrong with overkill. 5 is probably strong enough, but why question it. I always go nylocks b/c sometimes you need the nuts to stay without having to have them cranked down super tight. Just my $.02

X2

 

[loose cannon]

x3 nylocks and grade 8 carry a couple of spare just for a bad day.

 

[GONOVRIT]

.. concerned the reverse LT1 water pump may be overworked, ideas?

Put it in the back like said before. We have 2guys in our club running LT1's with the rads in the back with no issues. I'll be the 3rd next time I rework my junk.

Build looks good, keep it comin

 

[jeepn-jason]

rear radiator sounds good, lil guys like me can see over the frontend then! lol Hurry up, I wanna jump it!

 

[akxj]

My buddy runs a similar radiator in the back of his rear engine w/ an LT1 (although it could be an LS1, not a 100% sure) here's a picture of it...

 

[mcutler]

Check it out guys, lowers 36" eye to eye, 40 degree included angle. Approx 114" wheels, front link approx same length. First link build, thoughts, advice?

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[mcutler]

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[cherokee_kid_03]

Matt, Looks great man. . .Keep the pics coming. .

 

[mcutler]

made some good progress today. got the rear links hard tacked in, have yet to cycle them, be doing that in the morn. few picks and specs;

lowers- 40 degree combined, 36" eye to eye, 5 degree from parallel to ground, separation @ axle 41; frame 16

uppers- 25 degree combined, 36' eye to eye, parallel to ground, seperation @ axle 6.25; frame 22.5

All you builders, any critique or advice appreciated on geometry!

all clean

 

[mcutler]

more pics

billy-lucent

 

[mcutler]

me burning some

 

[mcutler]

also repostioned the fender a little higher; im thinking the front clip may look better without the hoops protruding from hood/fender...yes;no?

 

[just a sami guy]

i like the hoops protruding from hood
looks kool

 

[cherokee_kid_03]

loving the progress. . .