marty79
the LS Swap Guy
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2013
- Location
- Conover, NC
Aww wth, hmm well that plan went south pretty quickly lol. That's what I have you guys forBecause adding another 2000 pounds of weight and rolling resistance will be offset by 4.30s.
Aww wth, hmm well that plan went south pretty quickly lol. That's what I have you guys forBecause adding another 2000 pounds of weight and rolling resistance will be offset by 4.30s.
We've already figured out that I was off, thanks to Ron lol. With old rig, I would get 15 according to my odometer and gallons put in..now if those "are" off, then your right for years I've been off..oh well.Something doesn't seem right if you are getting 17mpg TOWING but cant maintain speed on a moderate incline.
Agreed. Gonna order parts this weekend hopefully cause I'm ready to take rig back out for a true test run but not happening with current power lolSince you have the skills a re-gear and cooler would be minimal money invested and probably best return.
You can drive it w/o a tune after the regear. But a hand held tuner of some sort will be able to correct the speedo and give you accurate MPG info. Not that you GAF about that or anything.Ok last question to finalize this stuff:
I'll have to tune ECU for gear change correct?
If that's right, what else if anything should I have him tune since price is the same for just tuning 1 or 5 things..thanks

But they cost just as much as paying the local guy $240 to do it...But a hand held tuner of some sort will be able to correct the speedo a
Oh man would that be interesting to see lmaojust use it to spray on the uphill for more power.![]()
But they cost just as much as paying the local guy $240 to do it...
So there's no "tune" to give the motor itself a little more ummph
Ten foIf they are actually a tuner, then they can get a little more throttle response and gut feel out of the motor, but there wont be a ton more power out of it without changing internals.
I don’t see what could go wrongOh man would that be interesting to see lmao
Gunna have a 4N60E instead of a 4L60E. That's 4 neutrals!You guys are killing it lol lmbo340k mile motor and nitrous. Silly...
It's half worn out and has a better ring gap for a turbo thoughGunna have a 4N60E instead of a 4L60E. That's 4 neutrals!
340k mile motor and nitrous. Silly...
It's half worn out and has a better ring gap for a turbo thoughGunna have a 4N60E instead of a 4L60E. That's 4 neutrals!
I will say the last 10 bolt I regeared did some funny abs stuff at first until it was flashed with the proper ratioYou can drive it w/o a tune after the regear. But a hand held tuner of some sort will be able to correct the speedo and give you accurate MPG info. Not that you GAF about that or anything.![]()
Thank you for confirming that @Chris_Keziah confirmed what I confirmed earlier.
Use this as a confirmation of previous confirmation.
I know this is my dilemmaI gotta be honest man.
All joking and ballbusting aside.
If its got 340K on a 5.3, its dead you just might not know it yet. Especially if you are driving 50k miles a year. You may have another year of use out of the vehicle.
You need to make one of those difficult split road decisions.
Either
A) This is the vehicle for long term
In which case re gear it and dont touch the motor. Know that you are going to be swapping the engine in the next year (at best) start searching for a JY motor and do whatever hop ups you want to it before installing it.
Or...
B)
This isnt the ideal tow rig
In which case you have 2 choices in my opinion
A) sell it while she rolls and get as much as possible for it.
B) Dont put another penny in it and drive her til she lays down and leave her where she lies.
Anything other than 1 of the 3 above is throwing good money after bad in my opinion.
Requoted for depth of factuality.Many folks (read as Mustang owners) learn that they are disappointedly weak and terribly expensive to make any real power. So changing the gears is a cheap way to give the sound and feel as if it had lots of power![]()
see also not shifting your manual and running way out of powerbandRequoted for depth of factuality.
I gotta be honest man.
All joking and ballbusting aside.
If its got 340K on a 5.3, its dead you just might not know it yet. Especially if you are driving 50k miles a year. You may have another year of use out of the vehicle.
You need to make one of those difficult split road decisions.
Either
A) This is the vehicle for long term
In which case re gear it and dont touch the motor. Know that you are going to be swapping the engine in the next year (at best) start searching for a JY motor and do whatever hop ups you want to it before installing it.
Or...
B)
This isnt the ideal tow rig
In which case you have 2 choices in my opinion
A) sell it while she rolls and get as much as possible for it.
B) Dont put another penny in it and drive her til she lays down and leave her where she lies.
Anything other than 1 of the 3 above is throwing good money after bad in my opinion.
Call ECGS and they'll tell you what to look for to distinguish between the 2 sizes. May be as easy as 2wd vs 4wd.and since this is my only vehicle, I'm trying to have all the parts ready for this...basically rebuild the whole rear diff.
Outer axle bearings and seals show 2 different sizes...dang it, anyone know if there's a way to tell which size bearings this year model would have without waiting until I have it torn down, which then would suck cause I'd be stuck lol thanks