05 up Dana 60 build. Advice needed.

Since you brought it up...

Unpopular opinion...BTR makes garbage. Especially "his" valve springs.

What about an intake and throttle body change is unreliable or hard to find parts for? The intake is literally a factory part. It's got longer runners to make more torque. Why go through the trouble of putting a well rounded, high compression motor together just to choke it off with the intake or some headers that are too small? It's not about peak power, it's that overall power. Power under the curve. Usable power.

I didn't list off anything ridiculous. The majority of the things I suggested replacing were for...wait for it...reliability. I gave him a pretty simple list of things to make good power that'll last so he only has to spend his money once.

To replace the factory valve springs with aftermarket, you need spring seats for install height. The factory valve stem seal IS the spring seat, those get replaced. Spring retainer locks are cheap. Might as well. Why would you not replace the oil pump, timing set, or push rods? He's never run the motor...they're unknowns. Also see: unreliable.
 
Stock truck intakes out number nnbs/tbss by a fair amount. I'm kinda with Enzo on not bothering with an intake and throttle body. You'll have $4-600 wrapped up into an intake swap and possibly a bit more for throttle body and the conversion harness for dbw tb. Would be better off spending that money in a cam, rocker arm upgrade, oil pump, oil pan, oil baffle, etc.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Since you brought it up...

Unpopular opinion...BTR makes garbage. Especially "his" valve springs.

What about an intake and throttle body change is unreliable or hard to find parts for? The intake is literally a factory part. It's got longer runners to make more torque. Why go through the trouble of putting a well rounded, high compression motor together just to choke it off with the intake or some headers that are too small? It's not about peak power, it's that overall power. Power under the curve. Usable power.

I didn't list off anything ridiculous. The majority of the things I suggested replacing were for...wait for it...reliability. I gave him a pretty simple list of things to make good power that'll last so he only has to spend his money once.

To replace the factory valve springs with aftermarket, you need spring seats for install height. The factory valve stem seal IS the spring seat, those get replaced. Spring retainer locks are cheap. Might as well. Why would you not replace the oil pump, timing set, or push rods? He's never run the motor...they're unknowns. Also see: unreliable.
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Opinions are like assholes. Everyone got one and it's ok. I gave mine in the above post.

But honestly, if he has a stock LQ9 available, I'd put it in the buggy as is, with all the questionable parts, no "upgrades", and go have fun.
The $1000+ you'll save by not investing anything in engine performance will be better put into a good oil pan and an accusump. In terms of reliability I mean. When your shit is upside down, it'll make a bigger difference than the extra 20hp.

I'd rather be in the woods with 400 stock hp than looking at my pretty engine build sitting in my garage.

PS : My engine has mismatched heads (not the same left and right) and a bunch more shit that's very wrong. And you've seen how it performs in the previous video. Stop overthinking the engine and put money where it matters. Drivetrain and suspension.
 
My main reasoning for any of it is...the motor is on a stand. Heads aren't on it. Looks like the short block is assembled though. If I was going to do any of it, I'd do it now. I think we can all agree on that.

Intake/throttle body...yeah, you can take it or leave it.

Even if he leaves it alone and bolts the heads on it, he'd still have roughly 370 hp and close to 400 tq at the crank. I'd rock that. Only thing I'd do is a rocker arm trunion kit and roll out. Maybe a catch can.


Carry on with SD60 talk :D
 
@Bebop i appreciate your advice. Simple and cheaper but solid is kinda what I’m going for so you were a big help.
I don’t “need” all these upgrades to the axle/motor and am just making a budget and seeing what people’s opinions are.
I’ll keep picking your brain as I build.
Definitely going to be reading through this as I put together my plan.
ball joint eliminators are ordered. Went with weld on arms. Spoke to ECGS yesterday for a while. Got a good plan for axle internals.
Thanks guys!
 
Van-go said:
Does the truss need to weld all the way around the casting? Like fuller did?
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I love when my name gets thrown around and I magically come across it lol!!
well you know me, I've always done my trusses that way cause well, my nickname is "overkill" lol. I've not had any of my axles break any welds or anything but welding is one thing I'm very proficient at so it doesn't scare me.
 
Van-go said:
Too many to choose from.
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maybe good time to design a new one and cut it on my table. I have a couple files for D60 trusses that someone gave me...could start with that and modify it for your needs?? just thinking out loud
 
Bebop said:
Going back to throw, if you want to max out steering angle, you can push to a 8.75 (close to 45deg of steering) or 9 (will get to 45) or 10" (all the degrees but you'll have to limit it to keep the shafts alive. 8.75 and 10" options
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hey could you give me a little pointer on my 08 axle:
I just did my tie rod today and when I measured lock to lock with doing the marks on the tie rod from the housing, I ended up with 11"??? I have a 8" ram which seems to be nowhere near long enough (runs all the way left but only turns right like 20%...Unless I totally measured wrong but pretty sure I did it right...too much going on and loosing my focus lol.
I turned tie rod all the way to one side, made a mark off the housing onto tie rod,.... turned steering all the way the other direction, made a mark off same point on housing and made a mark....measured in between those marks and I have 11"...I know we don't want to max out the joints but isn't factory designed to operate at the steering stops with the joints... the axles/hubs still turn perfectly smooth when turned all the way to steering stops. Thanks for the help. Trying to figure out now if I need to order a 2x10 ram and ditch this 2x8
 
Yep, what Jody said. I think 11+ turn even sharper than 05-10s do.

PSC, and surely others, make some pretty slick ram mounts and tie rod clamps. After discovering clamps, I don't think I'd ever weld tabs right on the tie rod again.
 
marty79 said:
hey could you give me a little pointer on my 08 axle:
I just did my tie rod today and when I measured lock to lock with doing the marks on the tie rod from the housing, I ended up with 11"??? I have a 8" ram which seems to be nowhere near long enough (runs all the way left but only turns right like 20%...Unless I totally measured wrong but pretty sure I did it right...too much going on and loosing my focus lol.
I turned tie rod all the way to one side, made a mark off the housing onto tie rod,.... turned steering all the way the other direction, made a mark off same point on housing and made a mark....measured in between those marks and I have 11"...I know we don't want to max out the joints but isn't factory designed to operate at the steering stops with the joints... the axles/hubs still turn perfectly smooth when turned all the way to steering stops. Thanks for the help. Trying to figure out now if I need to order a 2x10 ram and ditch this 2x8
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Are you using the factory arms ?
If yes, I have no idea.

The throw of your steering is dependent on the distance between the pivot axis (through the balljoints) and the TRE / heim hole.

In the case of the high steer arms I'm using, the numbers are above.

In case you're using the factory arms, other numbers apply. Seems like @Jody Treadway has more experience than me in this area.
 
Bebop said:
Are you using the factory arms ?
If yes, I have no idea.

The throw of your steering is dependent on the distance between the pivot axis (through the balljoints) and the TRE / heim hole.

In the case of the high steer arms I'm using, the numbers are above.

In case you're using the factory arms, other numbers apply. Seems like @Jody Treadway has more experience than me in this area.
Click to expand...
Factory with weld on high steer. I ordered a 2x10 like Jody mentioned which is what I thought to begin with.
 
This is what I did on an '05 build...

axles- stock 1550 shaft upgrade

ECGS drive slugs

riffraff diesel abs blockoff grease fittings

artec weld on high steer arms

surplus center 10" single ended ram

motobilt diff cover(maaybe ruffstuff?)

Busted knuckle offroad brake kit

and then custom bent mini truss that is just around the diff, not a full width like most.
 
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