Starting to build my front axle. It’s a 2006 ford Dana 60
Going in a buggy. Axle will clear front of motor so no need for low profile truss.
Which high steer kit is best?
Which truss should I run?
Which double ended ram is needed?
Which ball joint eliminator is best?
Which 40 spline shafts and spool should I go with?
so many options for all this. Just want to get the best stuff.
All of these questions are hugely depending on how deep your pockets are.
Also, your post doesn't say if it's a 250/350 or a 450/550 Dana 60. This changes some of the answers.
I'm going to answer on a 250/350 platform since it's the most common option.
You said you want the best stuff, so here it is:
- BKOR keyed high steer arms with Reid knuckles
- Truss I'll leave it up to you. Many good options
- Howe dual piston race ram or PSC XR ram
- Nick Barna BJEs
- RCV Big Bells and Mark Williams spool
Now that you've learned nothing, here is the tech and explanations:
- BKOR is the only company offering keyed arms on a SD platform. They only offer it on Reid knuckles but it's a badass setup. Definitely the stronger SD based steering system out there. If that's too much, BKOR offers machined stock knuckles with bolt on arms. Not as strong but plenty already. That's what I have on my buggy and I've "tested" them thoroughly. Weaver Fab also offers a similar product that works well. I'm not a fan of weld on setups but they have been proven to work in lighter buggies or with a clean driver. If you intend to power you way into shit I've seen them fail. Multiple times. IMO that's not the place to skimp on.
- Ram throw will depend on desired steering angle and high steer arm construction. Generally the more angle the better. With the BKOR arms you need a 8" throw ram to achieve close to 40 degrees. As far as which ram to get, PSC or Howe would be my go to. If you want the best option, I'd suggest the PSC XR (if you can find it, it's kind of elusive) because of the chromoly shaft (stronger) and the fact it's built in 1 piece (seen a few "normal" PSC rams unthread and split in half). Howe makes a single piece shaft 8" ram that's even better, it uses a dual piston for maximum rigidity but comes with a 10" body which is harder to package. Going back to throw, if you want to max out steering angle, you can push to a 8.75 (close to 45deg of steering) or 9 (will get to 45) or 10" (all the degrees but you'll have to limit it to keep the shafts alive. 8.75 and 10" options exist in 2.5" or 2.75" diameters from PSC. 9" is a 3" body. The bigger the body, the more force it'll make, the slower the steering. My personal buggy has a 2.5 and I'm happy with it, but I don't heavy rockcrawl. I'd rather have a quick steering. For a slower build with bigger rock garden tendancies I'd look into the 2.75. The 3" is very powerful but hard to package and you need a big pump to move it (Scotts or TT style).
- I only have experience with Nick Barna style BJE. I have no problems with them and they do the job. My main complaint against the other guy is the fact the C needs machining. The Nick Barna one can be installed with no specific tools easily. Do yourself a favor and weld the the insert inside the knuckle too. The top weld only isn't enough, I've seen a few break there. Be very carefull on install of the shoulder bolt. The tolerance is super tight and I've seen a few gall up really bad. Pre-heat before welding and let it cool down in a welding blanket for a night before trying to install. Use plenty of antiseize and go easy on it. If it's good, it should almost go by hand. If you have to force on the bolt, back off immediately and re-check everything.
- Best 40sp shafts are probably Tubeworks with the SPL140 joint. I know you said you wanted the best, but I think the shafts are north of 7k a pair. Not sure you want to spend that much. RCV Big Bells are around 4k and have been holding up in the back of a 1500hp bouncer in race use, so, should you choose this route, you should be fine. But it's not "the best".
Branik just released their Legacy 1550 units and they are a great option too. Just no warranty like RCV does. Ouverson is another option, but I've heard or multiple failures (not first hand experience). In the cheaper end of the spectrum, ECGS, Branik and BKOR all offer a 4340 solution which I believe, uses the same forgings. They each will machine them in house to length and to fit their axles. Cost is around 2500 with a set of drive flanges. They hold in the rear (steering axle) of a BKOR bouncer with a 427ci engine making about 650hp. Once again, IDK what's your goal with this buggy and why you need "the best", but I believe that option will do everything that a regular wheeler will need. BKOR offers a lifetime warranty on these, just like the RCV stuff. Hard to beat. One thing to know, the custom length stuff takes time. And, to my knowledge, ECGS is the only company out there stocking 40sp SD length shafts. Not sure how their warranty works?
No matter what, I wouldn't sweat any of the options in this list since the Dana60 ring and pinion will be the first thing to go, and not the 40sp shafts.
- Spool wise, I believe Mark Williams is the best option. I don't have specific data on Dana 60 stuff but on 14 bolts they are a notch above everyone else, in craftsmanship and strength. I've heard and seen a couple of other brand spool failures which were solved by going to MW products. That's what I run in my buggy.
Hope this helps.
Edit since I'm reading the rest of the topic and the answers:
Ball Joint Eliminators: Nick Barna or BKOR (pretty sure the BKOR is just Nick's
)
BKOR sells the Nick Barna BJEs
