2002 TuRD

gslander said:
New windshield is in, I used Doug's auto glass in hickory for the install. Getting closer to getting this pile back on the road. Going to hawk pride on 4/17, so I need to get it inspected before then. I have to put the interior back together, service the entire front end, and maybe get a new rear driveshaft. I may just drive it to the park on my spare, and swap my bent one in before wheeling, and swap the spare back in for the drive home.
Click to expand...
Wise decision on the driveshaft. I admire your determination to drive to a place, wheel, and drive back. That ability and desire was lost years ago.
 
frankenyoter said:
Wise decision on the driveshaft. I admire your determination to drive to a place, wheel, and drive back. That ability and desire was lost years ago.
Click to expand...
Im too cheap to buy a tow rig :laughing:.

I had a jeep and a tow rig years ago, and I have more fun wheeling this way.
 
Got everything wrapped up today besides a few low hanging fruit items that I'll knock out later in the week. Good thing I tore the front end down, I found my drives side front hub nut was finger tight, no idea how that happened, and the inner wheel bearing was bad. Swapped that out and I should be good to go!
 
PXL_20260407_230138642.jpg

I can only think of a few things better to come home to
 
skyhighZJ said:
You’re a brave man and obviously don’t live around @bigclay….. iykyk.



Also must be rich. I had an installment delivered Saturday for the wife’s truck. View attachment 455081
Click to expand...
:laughing:, I remember that.

Im not rich, but I figure tires will probably quadruple in price in a few months, so may as well buy them now when I have a work bonus to burn through.
 
gslander said:
:laughing:, I remember that.

Im not rich, but I figure tires will probably quadruple in price in a few months, so may as well buy them now when I have a work bonus to burn through.
Click to expand...
Yeah. I understand that. I’m waiting on Uncle Sam to give my borrowed money back and will buy the rest for hers and hopefully a set for my dually. I honestly can’t complain too much. These tires will replace the same style 78,xxx miles later. The price difference from the last purchase (November of 2021) is staggering though. They were $395 / tire and I just paid $455 / tire. 35x12.50x 20 load range F
 
skyhighZJ said:
Yeah. I understand that. I’m waiting on Uncle Sam to give my borrowed money back and will buy the rest for hers and hopefully a set for my dually. I honestly can’t complain too much. These tires will replace the same style 78,xxx miles later. The price difference from the last purchase (November of 2021) is staggering though. They were $395 / tire and I just paid $455 / tire. 35x12.50x 20 load range F
Click to expand...
Goddamn!! These were cheaper than those 35s (I know load range F but still)
 
Tires mounted, just need to swing by an inspection station before wheeling and I'm good to go. So far no vibrations with zero weights, so that's good! Im really going to miss the MT2s, those tires were awesome, the sidewalls were so soft and broken in. Time to see how the nittos do.
PXL_20260410_201331148.jpg
 
@Jody Treadway diff question: driving my truck today I get a metallic "whirling" sound when in 1st gear, 3500+ RPM and off the throttle coming from behind the cab. It does it a little bit in 2nd same RPM also off throttle. I am running my spare driveshaft and the u joints felt ok and I just greased evreything. So do I have a failing pinion bearing, driveshaft center bearing or u joint? Im going to drain the diff fluid tonight and see what it looks like. Is there anyway to diagnose the pinion bearing without dropping the 3rd, this is on an fj80 9.5 diff?

Trying to figure out how many late nights I'm going to be pulling before leaving to wheel later this week lol.

Doesnt have to be Jody, anyone else can let me know what ya think!
 
Last edited:
gslander said:
@Jody Treadway diff question: driving my truck today I get a metallic "whirling" sound when in 1st gear, 3500+ RPM and off the throttle coming from behind the cab. It does it a little bit in 2nd same RPM also off throttle. I am running my spare driveshaft and the u joints felt ok and I just greased evreything. So do I have a failing pinion bearing, driveshaft center bearing or u joint? Im going to drain the diff fluid tonight and see what it looks like. Is there anyway to diagnose the pinion bearing without dropping the 3rd, this is on an fj80 9.5 diff?

Trying to figure out how many late nights I'm going to be pulling before leaving to wheel later this week lol.

Doesnt have to be Jody, anyone else can let me know what ya think!
Click to expand...
That is indicative of a failed outer pinion bearing. It's being loaded on decel. Any chance the pinion nut is loose?
It can also be driveshaft/pinion angle related. I'd have to swap driveshafts and recheck to see if there is a change.
 
Jody Treadway said:
That is indicative of a failed outer pinion bearing. It's being loaded on decel. Any chance the pinion nut is loose?
It can also be driveshaft/pinion angle related. I'd have to swap driveshafts and recheck to see if there is a change.
Click to expand...
My other driveshaft is bent to hell, and there has been no change to any angles in the rear. This would track as my other diffs outer pinion bearing failed last year, I fixed that and swapped ends. So looks like im swapping a pinion bearing Thursday morning before hitting the road to hawk pride lol.

This is apparently a known problem with aftermarket rebuild kits not having the same thrust angle as OEM so they crap out early, according to people smarter than me.

Im also sure slamming the driveshaft into rock ledges doesn't help lol
 
Last edited:
gslander said:
My other driveshaft is bent to hell. This would track as my other diffs outer pinion bearing failed last year, I fixed that and swapped ends. So looks like im swapping a pinion bearing Thursday morning before hitting the road to hawk pride lol.

This is apparently a known problem with aftermarket rebuild kits not having the same thrust angle as OEM so they crap out early, according to people smarter than me.
Click to expand...
I've been fortunate to not have many issues with the non-OEM kits. Only tips I can offer is:
Use a brand new pinion nut on FINAL assembly and add a dab of loctite too.
I'm not a stickler for crush sleeve vs CS eliminator, so no opinion there. (they all loosen up a little)
Put a little anti-seize between the nut, washer and flange so everything torques evenly and you don't get a false preload reading.
 
Jody Treadway said:
I've been fortunate to not have many issues with the non-OEM kits. Only tips I can offer is:
Use a brand new pinion nut on FINAL assembly and add a dab of loctite too.
I'm not a stickler for crush sleeve vs CS eliminator, so no opinion there. (they all loosen up a little)
Put a little anti-seize between the nut, washer and flange so everything torques evenly and you don't get a false preload reading.
Click to expand...
Good tips thanks!! Given the time frame, I think I'm going to swap the front diff to the rear (fresh bearings last year, need to check torque and everything on it while it's out), and stick the current rear in the front and send it for this trip (check the pinion nut while it's out and see what's going on inside), and then rebuild it when I get home. As much as I don't want to be swapping diffs around, probably the "quickest" and least prone to an issue causing me to miss the trip.

Diffs already have solid spacers in them, thanks for the other tips!
 
Back
Top