2014 or newer ram 2500 reviews?

BIGWOODY said:
2011 fully deleted, CCLB, 4x4, 6 speed,stock wheels and tires, 426k miles. Empty below 65mph will get 20mpg. Towing jeep/mercedes on trailer below 65mph will get 13-14. Empty 70-80mph 13.5 mpg Towing 70-80mph 11 mpg.
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2017-2011=6
426,000/6=71,000=A metric shit ton of miles per year. Heck thats 200 miles a day, every day, for 6 years straight. Impressive sir.

How's the rest of the truck holding up at 426k?
 
jeepinmatt said:
2017-2011=6
426,000/6=71,000=A metric shit ton of miles per year. Heck thats 200 miles a day, every day, for 6 years straight. Impressive sir.

How's the rest of the truck holding up at 426k?
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It looks and drives like it's got 50k.... doesn't leak a drop of anything or use oil between 7k mile changes. Had a buddy borrow it awhile back, talked about how nice it drove and rode. He said" it should though it's only got 42k miles on it", I laughed and said that's not a 1/10 slot on the odometer.
 
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NC_IslandRunner said:
I have a 1500, if you don't haul super heavy stuff why get a 2500, you can get the same options, smoother ride and better gas milage with the 1/2 ton truck, and most likely for less $$. Unless you just need to see a 2 on the side instead of a 1, but that's a lot to pay for a emblem.
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I'm not in the diesel group yet but my personal reason for going with a 2500 over 1500 is that the little parts, joints,tre,bearings,axles are bigger and seem to last longer getting balljoints replaced every year sucks on a 1500 even with moog I've had that issue! But I use mine for DD work SUV and I like seeing that 2 on the side sometimes too maybe lol
 
C.Berry said:
getting balljoints replaced every year sucks on a 1500 even with moog I've had that issue!
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Then you're gonna want to put Dynatrac ball joints on your new diesel... BTDT.
 
BIGWOODY said:
It looks and drives like it's got 50k.... doesn't leak a drop of anything or use oil between 7k mile changes. Had a buddy borrow it awhile back, talked about how nice it drove and rode. He said" it should though it's only got 42k miles on it", I laughted and said that's not a 1/10 slot on the odometer.
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And not relevant to this thread, that is about 2014 and newer

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C.Berry said:
I'm not in the diesel group yet but my personal reason for going with a 2500 over 1500 is that the little parts, joints,tre,bearings,axles are bigger and seem to last longer getting balljoints replaced every year sucks on a 1500 even with moog I've had that issue! But I use mine for DD work SUV and I like seeing that 2 on the side sometimes too maybe lol
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Who replaces ball joints every year? You're doing something wrong.

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benXJ said:
Who replaces ball joints every year? You're doing something wrong.

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In my 1500 it was a yearly thing at least one ball joint per side and pitman and idler arm... I didn't do balljoints I sent it to a shop every time not to mention it never seen off-road use besides fishing hole off the side of the road!
 
shawn said:
Then you're gonna want to put Dynatrac ball joints on your new diesel... BTDT.
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Worth putting them on my 2500 for even longer life? It's worth the extra cash in my opinion.
 
Only reason I got a 2500 was my 1500 had constant cv issues and I was just leveled. Even the dealership said something wasn't right so I sold it. Few months go by and Ram started buying back 1500s for front end issues. Told myself never again would I get one
 
My factory ball joint are starting to let go in my 3rd gen. I'll be putting carli ball joints, Trac bar, and steering stabilizer in.

These front ends are supposed to be notorious for eating ball joints. I've managed somehow to get 102k out of my factory ones with 37's on it for most of that.
 
My 15 2500 342 gears got great mileage with stock tires I went to 35s and it went to shit. Finally deleted it and averaged 16.5 and 12 towing. This pic is from my 17 dually 342 gears all stock. Think I'll leave the stock tires on for a while
 

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I'm sitting on a set of 3.73s I took it out of one to swap in 4.56s a while back.
Just not sure if the jump is enough or not.

Pro tip: do the crush sleeve eliminator when/if you do them. Those crush sleeves are the toughest ones I have ever set preload with.
 
shawn said:
Aren't they the same gears they've been using since 2003?
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Apparently not. They are made of unobtanium or something.


Jody Treadway said:
I'm sitting on a set of 3.73s I took it out of one to swap in 4.56s a while back.
Just not sure if the jump is enough or not.

Pro tip: do the crush sleeve eliminator when/if you do them. Those crush sleeves are the toughest ones I have ever set preload with.
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If I do them I was actually going to talk to you about them. I'm not really sure I feel comfortable doing them myself with the towing I do and horror stories I've heard about the install. I know I can do most gears in a day on the ground. Not sure on the Ram though and I'm just a part time mechanic. Lol
 
It's funny when I do the calculations it says a 3.73 is the closest gear ratio I need with the new tires but you can get the DRW stock with 4.10's so that would be the minimum I would go. I've even considered 4.30 but I really don't want to kill the unloaded mileage on the highway. With the Aisin trans it seems to stay out of 5th until about 50mph and won't go into 6th until close to 60mph so the truck uses the transmission gearing well.
 
@BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.

I’ll address this to you because you’re one of the few people on here I’ve actually met face to face and have respect for.

My commute consists of 35, 45, and 55 mph zones. In a one way trip to work, I’ll hit 5 stop signs and 9 traffic lights. Double that for a round trip. Double that for 2 days. Altogether, let’s just say I have to stop a fair amount and I’m not just cruising at 55 mph on flat ground the whole time. Usually, I’m on cruise control 5 mph over the speed limit.

Night 1 (5 PM): I’m starting at 17279.7 miles at the Flying J on Exit 102 off I-85 just over the SC line. I’ve topped my truck off with fuel at Pump #5 (letting it stop on the first click). MPG reset to 0.0
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Morning 1 (Back at the house): 17351.7 miles, MPG reads 22.1

MPG 3.JPG
 
@BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.

Morning 2 (Back at the house): 17430.9 miles, MPG reads 22.3
MPG.JPG


Night 3 (5PM): Now back at the Flying J at Pump #5 and truck is showing 17438.4 miles.

MPG 4.JPG

MPG 6.JPG


That’s 158.7 miles for 2 round trips to work and back to the exact same spot I started. I’ve fueled up again and let it stop on the first click. 7.582 gallons of fuel across 158.7 miles. MPG reads 22.2, hand calculations come out to 20.93 MPG.


No Unicorns were harmed in the making of this documentary!!

Deadpool.gif
 
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You can track all this on fuelly.com or their app. This is great scientific starting data, but 7 gallons an 150 miles is too small of a sample size. Not questioning your numbers, just observing. Calculating over a few tanks is much less prone to small errors with things like when the pump stops. If you really want accurate data, first verify the accuracy of your odometer and speedometer. Quick way is to check speedo against GPS at steady interstate speed. Better way is to check odometer over the course of 50+ miles using interstate mile markers. Most speedometers and odometers are off the same amount, and tend to read optimistic by about 5%. It makes people think their car is 5% faster and 5% more fuel efficient. It helps the dealer/carmaker because it needs oil changes/etc 5% more often and gets out of warranty 5% sooner!
 
jeepinmatt said:
You can track all this on fuelly.com or their app. This is great scientific starting data, but 7 gallons an 150 miles is too small of a sample size. Not questioning your numbers, just observing. Calculating over a few tanks is much less prone to small errors with things like when the pump stops. If you really want accurate data, first verify the accuracy of your odometer and speedometer. Quick way is to check speedo against GPS at steady interstate speed. Better way is to check odometer over the course of 50+ miles using interstate mile markers. Most speedometers and odometers are off the same amount, and tend to read optimistic by about 5%. It makes people think their car is 5% faster and 5% more fuel efficient. It helps the dealer/carmaker because it needs oil changes/etc 5% more often and gets out of warranty 5% sooner!
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The old school NAV I have and the APP on my phone say the speedo is correct, but I've never run any kind of verification on the odometer. I'll give it a shot in the morning on my commute back home. Nothing I have speedo wise reads in 1/10th scale so there's still a little wiggle room in there.
 
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