35" tire for Uhwarrie

I'll never own a set of bfg ats especially around here with clay. My MTR w/Kevlar even gunked up. There isn't much you can do but get tires that clean out easily. As mentioned STT PROS did a fantastic job of this and for the price I don't that you could argue. Plus they balance easily and are really nice on road. I always just hammered down at the right times to clear out the tires.
Best advice was mentioned already. Go when it's dry learn the trails and go from there. There are some downhill trails that'll slide you right off the side regardless of your tire choice if you're not ready for it
 
Look at the BFG KM2, I will put a set of those on my sidekick when tire time comes. They honestly work comparable to the LTBs I had on my sammi. Comparable size on two virtually identical rigs. In the slop my rig was a little further ahead and in the dry he was a little further ahead.
 
CasterTroy said:
Ask the sidewall puncture crowd about those BFG's
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That's not really a thing anymore.

And again, getting back to my A/B testing... got one on mud tires and one on AT tires... can't tell a difference except on wet roads. Two years ago at the Veteran's Ride, the one on ATs went everywhere anybody else did. And you definitely can't beat them for the price.
 
I'm glad I asked this question, learning a lot - getting good opinions too.
So far = I don't need to spend any money at this point...
AT's are okay if it's dry.
33's or taller are all that's required .
Start with the easy trails.
Irok Tsl's are probably the best.
Cooper Stt 's close 2nd.
followed by " a " tire that can clean itself out.
When it's wet -anything can happen!
 
wild1joker said:
33's or taller are all that's required .
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We wheeled out there for a year or two on a set of 235 street tires, until I sidewalled one of them on Rocky Mountain Loop.
 
shawn said:
And again, getting back to my A/B testing... got one on mud tires and one on AT tires... can't tell a difference except on wet roads. Two years ago at the Veteran's Ride, the one on ATs went everywhere anybody else did. And you definitely can't beat them for the price.
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Yeah but your Cummins gets 37mpg while towing 20k, soooooo......
 
wild1joker said:
I'm glad I asked this question, learning a lot - getting good opinions too.
So far = I don't need to spend any money at this point...
AT's are okay if it's dry.
33's or taller are all that's required .
Start with the easy trails.
Irok Tsl's are probably the best.
Cooper Stt 's close 2nd.
followed by " a " tire that can clean itself out.
When it's wet -anything can happen!
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About right except the Iroc part, for your tire range the bias or radial TSLs will work just fine.
 
We have a couple of TJs with lockers and winches.

One of them is currently running the BFG JK takeoffs. They're decent tires for the price, but don't seem to last very long. The other one was running 31" KOs up until last August, when we bought a set of 33" KO2s for it.

Over the years, we've had SXs and SSRs and maybe a set of regular TSLs, a set of Coopers (I think?), a bunch of BFGs, etc. Mud tires suck on wet roads. Fuck a whole lot of running a bias tire the street. They're "better" in the slop, but for what we're doing, the trade-offs suck.

Not only that, but if you stick a set of Swampers on your Jeep, you're just going to be snapping front axles all the time.
 
Let's be clear for a moment. Just because a tire says mud terrain don't think you have a winner winner chicken dinner.

BFG A/Ts do just fine at URE. If you can't manage to get traction on rocks it probably because those rocks are too tall for your tire anyways. And if they are too tall for your tire that means you need to bump it to get over it.


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NickMaul said:
Let's be clear for a moment. Just because a tire says mud terrain don't think you have a winner winner chicken dinner.
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Sez the only dude I know that managed a smokey burnout in red Clay mud
 
I would not stick with 16s or go down to 15s. The thing to do would be to get a set of 17" wheels and a set of tires to use dual purpose. I say go to 17" wheels because if you ever build up your jeep to 38, 39, 40 inch or bigger the tires are more common in 17s now. That way you will have the right size wheel already.
 
I would spend the money on a winch instead of new tires, especially if you wheel by your self. You'll be surprised that you can winch your way through stuff more capable rigs couldn't make.
Uwharrie Doesn't really have black mud, it's all red clay.
 
91samurai said:
You'll be surprised that you can winch your way through stuff more capable rigs couldn't make.
Uwharrie Doesn't really have black mud, it's all red clay.
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What is the point in winching over an obstacle if your not stuck? Don't waste time, just back up and go around.

Now don't get me wrong having a winch is important but he's talking about going to URE, there's not anything there to get hung up on to need a winch to get off of.
 
Uwharrie is a lot of fun on small tires with a jeep makes you think a little in a few spots. Go to 35s and you get bored quick to many stock sidekicks, Samurai's on 27s going everywhere. Armor is where it's at doesn't matter how much tire or lift you will hit now and then. Good skids, sliders that's key.
 
good point-- I do have A to Z rock sliders . a steering box skid,
lower control arm bracket skids, front and rear differential covers too,
I'm looking a an oil pan / trans skid and a gas tank skid.
Any recommendations ?
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
I would not stick with 16s or go down to 15s. The thing to do would be to get a set of 17" wheels and a set of tires to use dual purpose. I say go to 17" wheels because if you ever build up your jeep to 38, 39, 40 inch or bigger the tires are more common in 17s now. That way you will have the right size wheel already.
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This doesn't make sense, if you go from a 35 to a 40 ish tire you'll want to get rid of that d30/8.8 and go to a bigger axle which will have a different bolt pattern so you'll have to buy new wheels anyway.

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LBarr2002 said:
UCF
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Actually I have had their oil pan skid and unless it's reinforced don't buy it, that bitch will be fondling the oil pan and exhaust tube after a couple of good hits.

For reference
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Stuntman Autoworks said:
What is the point in winching over an obstacle if your not stuck? Don't waste time, just back up and go around.

Now don't get me wrong having a winch is important but he's talking about going to URE, there's not anything there to get hung up on to need a winch to get off of.
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Edit: I meant getting unstuck, not using it to go through something. Sometimes a winch can give you that little boost you need to pop over a rock or ledge. A winch also means you don't have to worried about getting stuck if you want to try a different line, because you can get yourself out.

I'm a big fan of trying all the obstacles I possibly can, even though I'm only on 31s. This often leads to being in places you can't back up. Even sometimes in the mud. Sometimes It's deeper or harder to drive through than expected. A truck with bigger tires and more horse power wouldn't make it, but you can winch yourself to the other side. To me a winch is the first mod you should do to a 4x4 because I often wheel by myself and it has gotten me out of spots I underestimated.
 
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Joe J. said:
This doesn't make sense, if you go from a 35 to a 40 ish tire you'll want to get rid of that d30/8.8 and go to a bigger axle which will have a different bolt pattern so you'll have to buy new wheels anyway.

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If he went with dana 44s or 9" ford stuff then it would be the same pattern he has now.

So no he wouldn't have to buy new wheels.

Going to 17s makes more sense than going to 15s.
 
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