4.7 stroker build parts list

Discussion in 'General Tech' started by Jeff B, May 6, 2018.

  1. Jeff B

    Jeff B Thanos was right

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    Lincolnton N.C.
    I am collecting parts for a 4.7 build. Doing some reading, however I am not an engine builder and am a little nervous about building my own parts list.

    after reading several threads from several places this one seems like it's what I am looking for.

    any advice offered up is greatly appreciated..

    Cybershots 4.7L Stroker build up thread - Jeep Strokers
     
  2. ghost

    ghost Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 25, 2006
    Location:
    Hartsville/Camden,SC
    Some good info here too:

    Stroker
     
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  3. RHSCTJ

    RHSCTJ Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2008
    Location:
    ROCK HILL, SC
    Which crankshaft do you plan on using?
     
  4. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    What's the recommendations over using custom pistons vs 677 or 820 with 4.2 rods? I'm looking to build a stroker too.. I know there's some people here that have built strokers with the 4.2 rods..
     
  5. Mac5005

    Mac5005 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2005
    Location:
    Rocky Mount

    I have a stroker with 4.0 block, 4.2 crank and rods with 4.2 pistons.

    If you go 4.0 rods, you get a little better rod length to stroke ratio. These require pistons with a raised pin.

    It’s my understanding that with the right dish height, with the custom pistons, you can achieve a quench height that will allow you to run 87 octane even with 9.5+ Compression ratio.

    I have 9.9:1 compression ratio it will run on 89/93 octane with no ping. I ran a tank of 87 and you could barely notice some pinging when hot and a lot of load, but just barely.

    My combustion chambers were all polished when my dad cleaned up the head ports.

    I think @Jody Treadway can explain better about the static CR, quench height and squish and it’s affect on octane fuel needed than I can. I remember him posting it before.

    But yes a longer rod is better.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2018
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  6. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    Also, the crankshaft snout will require a spacer depending on what year it comes out of.
     
  7. Jeff B

    Jeff B Thanos was right

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    Lincolnton N.C.
    I have a 4.2 out of I think late 80''
     
  8. Jeff B

    Jeff B Thanos was right

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    Lincolnton N.C.
    I am not sure which rods to use with which pistons. Whisch is stronger? Most cost effective.
     
  9. shawn

    shawn running dog lackey of the oppressor class Administrator

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    Jody put me onto Bishop-Buehl pistons. I'm planning on running his pistons and rods and the Scat crank.
     
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  10. Jeff B

    Jeff B Thanos was right

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    Lincolnton N.C.
    I may ask for your part numbers later on.
     
  11. shawn

    shawn running dog lackey of the oppressor class Administrator

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    I need to get this other motor broken down and have the machine work done. The Bishop Buehl ones have a 1.385 compression height, so no decking, and available custom with a dish to match your cam/compression/power goals/etc.
     
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  12. Mac5005

    Mac5005 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2005
    Location:
    Rocky Mount
    Cost effective the ticket is 4.2 rods and 4.0 stock pistons for sure.

    My crank was out of a 90 so the snout was already machined for the serpentine belt balancer.

    Mine has been together since 05 with the budget setup with many rev limiter assaults, that said it could grenade tomorrow lol.

    I guess it just depends on the build of going budget or all out.

    If I were going all out, I’d do scat crank,
    Offset ground for max stroke, with main stud girdle in newer nvh block.

    H beam rods and custom forged pistons and a decent cam.

    The biggest improvement other than stroke is porting the head and port matching the intake. The next step is 2.02/1.60 valves in the head.

    IIRC my cam is crane 753905 204/216 @50 with a .100 shim under new stock springs. This was the biggest crane said would run like stock with stock injection.

    You can go 216/224 on the cam, I think there is a beehive spring upgrade now available, just watch going over .500 lift, make sure it all clears. The other consideration is the map sensor acting goofy at idle with that cam. It can get rich @ idle with the lower vacuum of the big cam.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. Jeff B

    Jeff B Thanos was right

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    Lincolnton N.C.
    Stock pistons won't get me to 4.7 though will it? I thought I read that it needed to be bored to .060 and the block decked .020.


    I'm ok with spending some coin on pistons.
    Reconditioning the rods and a good cam.
    Looking for performance in the 1800 to 3000 range. Still learning about the cam
     
  14. Mac5005

    Mac5005 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2005
    Location:
    Rocky Mount

    I like my cam, I honestly don’t feel like I need to push the rpm range any higher.

    You’ll most likely have to buy pistons either way, so see what the block requires as far as bore to clean up the cylinders first.

    Then if you are ordering pistons, you may as well get good forged ones with raised pins. This way if you ever want to do forced induction or nitrous you don’t need a piston change.

    The spacer for the older cranks is like $20 from 505 performance.

    I wouldn’t go more duration on the cam than the 753905 just to keep stock injection happy.

    Want to come drive mine?
     
  15. Jeff B

    Jeff B Thanos was right

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    Lincolnton N.C.
    I just picked up the block today. Had a bad head gasket. The cyl. Walls look like they will clean up nicely with little machine work.

    Can I get to 4.7 without boring to .060?
     
  16. Mac5005

    Mac5005 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2005
    Location:
    Rocky Mount

    I don’t think so, I think you get 4.6 with .030” over, and 4.7” with .060”. I doubt that difference in bore size would be noticed as far as hp and seat of the pants.

    I had to use .040” over pistons bc that’s what it took to clean up the block.

    That’s figuring on 4.2 crank and 4.0 rods with raised pin pistons.


    Stroker

    http://oljeep.com/JeepEngines.pdf

    Engine Parts | Hesco

    505performance

    Newcomer Racing Jeep Products

    Jeep
     
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  17. Jeff B

    Jeff B Thanos was right

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    Lincolnton N.C.
    Gotcha, will read more this evening.

    Am stripping blocks now.
    Thank you
     
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  18. Jeff B

    Jeff B Thanos was right

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    Lincolnton N.C.
    Yep, just got it out. I am going to have the nose machined when I have it checked for balance.
     
  19. RHSCTJ

    RHSCTJ Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2008
    Location:
    ROCK HILL, SC
    Normally I would be against going .060 over on the first build just incase something happened and you had to re do it, but good 4.0 blocks are cheap and plentiful and lots of people say you can go .080 and still have decent cylinder walls. If you are really interested in a low rpm torque monster you might want to look for an earlier 12 counter weight crank. The extra mass will not be good for quick revving but will help it crawl at idle and resist stalling. When I built mine that was my goal. Most of the trail riding I did was idleing in 2 or 3 gear low range. Having a lot of rotating mass means it wont bog down as much, but it wont rev as fast either.
     
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  20. Jody Treadway

    Jody Treadway Croc wearing fool Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2005
    Location:
    Hendersonville, NC
    Our build is a machined block at 0.030", the Bishop-Buehl rods and pistons and a 4.2 crank. My block was decked to the exact deck height Ross at Bishop-Buehl requested. Only needed like 0.006" taken off.
    I'll use a Comp 231-4 cam and lifters, 99 and up intake with a set of 19 lb/hr 5.0 injectors.
    Solid performer that will make good power, great torque and will be ideal for Lisa's ZJ on 32s and 4.56 gearing.
    All in with machining, forged rods and pistons, injectors, cam, new water pump, motor mounts and other misc stuff, I'll be between $1800-$2000 doing the labor myself.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2018
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  21. Jeff B

    Jeff B Thanos was right

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    Lincolnton N.C.
    How does one contact this gentleman for purchase of pistons and rods?
     
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  22. Jody Treadway

    Jody Treadway Croc wearing fool Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2005
    Location:
    Hendersonville, NC
    Just ask yer buddy up the hill from ya
    Screenshot_20180508-201101.png
     
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  23. josh m

    josh m Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2013
    I'll give another +1 for Russ Pottinger. I ordered a cam from him the beginning of the year. Real nice fella and will take the time to talk to you about your build. I went a different route on my pistons to save a few bucks but I burnt up some of that savings on a little extra machine work, and mine are hyper not forged.
    Russ and I talked a bit when I coming up with my valve setup. It took a little extra machining but I've got a set up now that'll give me a lightweight beehive spring, .570ish lift and safe open/seat pressure that won't eat a cam like some folks do. I'll be able to wind this one up with no worries. Hehe
     
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  24. ghost

    ghost Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 25, 2006
    Location:
    Hartsville/Camden,SC
    Another vote for Russ. Most of the guys I know that have strokers on NAXJA over the years have dealt with him. If I ever build one he will be who I call.
     
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  25. Jeff B

    Jeff B Thanos was right

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    Lincolnton N.C.

    I will be calling soon also.
     

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