4x6 Trail/work trailer suggestions and pricing

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These are actually not terrible. You may already have a good back ground. They could supplement your knowledge and prevent you from making to many mistakes or design changes to get what you want. I'm not bashing your work thus far either....your not done. Just a thought to help you along your way.
 
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These are actually not terrible. You may already have a good back ground. They could supplement your knowledge and prevent you from making to many mistakes or design changes to get what you want. I'm not bashing your work thus far either....your not done. Just a thought to help you along your way.
My background was really just the Pythagorean theorem... lol suprisingly the frame on this old thing was square except for the axle braces! Thanks tho Ill take a look at those may help me on the next one a good blue print would def be needed if starting from scratch
 
Make top rails for the sides, like a landscape trailer. It makes the trailer a hell of a lot stiffer.
Side rails only? What’s your thought on keeping the 1/4” angle on the corners and adding square to that like so?
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Or should I just remove that and use square for vertical railing supports? Was gonna put wood sides on it but may go thin sheet metal if I do tube railing!?
 
Do side and front rails. The front rail will tie the side rails together and that will act against twisting motions much better than just individual side rails.

ETA: Angle on the corners with square up top will be fine. Square has more torsional rigidity, but in this application I don’t think it will matter much. Do what looks good. The important thing is that your structure is now a 3 dimensional cube rather than planar.
 
Screw it whats $35 more in metal on this old turd! Gonna use 18g for sides and leave back open until I find a CHEVY or Jeep tailgate I can cut down to fit in there!
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Do side and front rails. The front rail will tie the side rails together and that will act against twisting motions much better than just individual side rails.

ETA: Angle on the corners with square up top will be fine. Square has more torsional rigidity, but in this application I don’t think it will matter much. Do what looks good. The important thing is that your structure is now a 3 dimensional cube rather than planar.
Thanks, yeah just clamping the square up on sides and the old tongue up front across to the sides definitely gave it some more strength it seemed. I’m going to remove old angle and do it right, and it’ll look better also.
 
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Now is a double miter cut in corners for 3 pieces of square necessary regarding strength or that just for looks? I can cut em but really don’t see how it would be stronger lol
 
Now is a double miter cut in corners for 3 pieces of square necessary regarding strength or that just for looks? I can cut em but really don’t see how it would be stronger lol

A double miter I’m interpreting as 45 deg cuts on the horizontals and the vertical butts up to that from the top or bottom. That is the preferred method and is technically a little stronger due to load distribution across the joint. It also seals the joint so you don’t get water down inside the tube. That being said I’ve seen trailers done the other way and then a cap welded on the tube to keep water out.
 
A double miter I’m interpreting as 45 deg cuts on the horizontals and the vertical butts up to that from the top or bottom. That is the preferred method and is technically a little stronger due to load distribution across the joint. It also seals the joint so you don’t get water down inside the tube. That being said I’ve seen trailers done the other way and then a cap welded on the tube to keep water out.
Hmmm yeah I see now keeping water out being beneficial I’m gonna have to do my homework! I like the look of it but may just cap these! Got my band saw back up and running so shouldn’t be a problem I’ll grind rails smooth on ends and caps! Gonna read up some bc I know this thin shit will warp lol it’s actually .125 11 gauge I thought it was 12g tube!
 
The double miter is stronger because it has better load distribution across the joint. Butt joint wants to crush the adjoining tube, where miter sends force down length of adjoining tube. Miter joint also has 1.66 inches of additional weld length (18% more).

There’s probably an FEA nerd around here that explain it more better than I, but you get the idea. I didn’t count the cap welds, even though the cap does help prevent tube crushage some. It’s still square though and can rack (ie not enough triangulation :p). Ok, I’m rambling now...

summary: In real life, it will be fine either way. :rolleyes:

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Smdh! I picked up xcalibers and refilled my tank, didn’t get a spoil of solid wire... rookie mistake!
 
Looks good.

Just a thought...
Built a 10'x8' deck over trailer while back.
Made rub rail pockets and welded on a rub rail.
Pockets an rub rails Really comes in hand when strapping stuff down.
Just be sure to make the pockets a stand away far enough from the sides to get the hooks of your straps through.

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If I would have slowed down and thought about it... lol I would have added a rub rail, I like how they look and their useful! Unfortunately tho with tires and wheels on I’ll not have enough room with the axle width I have now!
 
The double miter is stronger because it has better load distribution across the joint. Butt joint wants to crush the adjoining tube, where miter sends force down length of adjoining tube. Miter joint also has 1.66 inches of additional weld length (18% more).

There’s probably an FEA nerd around here that explain it more better than I, but you get the idea. I didn’t count the cap welds, even though the cap does help prevent tube crushage some. It’s still square though and can rack (ie not enough triangulation :p). Ok, I’m rambling now...

summary: In real life, it will be fine either way. :rolleyes:

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That makes sense entirely especially after looking at all the diff cuts and amount of surface area welded! I’m curious if there’s a test to determine this or if math is ultimate factor?? Lol as you see I’m non nerd i like to see one hold longer than the other and something break in the end! I’m gonna go the “easy” route on this one tho! Thanks I learned something none the less.
 
Horizontal/vertical bandsaw has just replaced the abrasive chop saw. thank you baby Jesus! my Old 6225 Milwaukee portaband couldn’t get the miters cut straight it’s wore out and it wore out my patients yesterday... Rebuilding it soon just needs pulley sleeves and blade bearings but damn it’s nice to drop the saw and go do something else while it cuts all nice and quite and slow as molasses! Lol
 
Nice 45s just to grind em away...
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Top rails in place! Decided 10” would be high enough for the rails so I could still step into trailer! Going to tie in some angles with tube on sides in between corners, may actually tie them into corner tubes and make it a gusset so to speak for added support/coolness...
 
Stop grinding off your welds. Makes them weak.
:( Damn I didn’t even think that through man... That’s only ones I’ve grinded just so it would be flush on top and sides I left inside Vertical and overhead Ts alone!
 
:( Damn I didn’t even think that through man... That’s only ones I’ve grinded just so it would be flush on top and sides I left inside Vertical and overhead Ts alone!

If you're a shitty welder by all means hide them. If you're a good welder, let it shine..
 
If you're a shitty welder by all means hide them. If you're a good welder, let it shine..
Well I wouldn’t say I’m a good welder, but making a effort to get there! I didn’t want to hide em really though! Hurt my feelings a little grinding em away !
 
I left some decent ones showing... I’ll have to grind the back top to match the front tho bc ocd will get to me after I paint it! Lol
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