500HP YJ Build

redneckcj5guy said:
He should have NEVER rode with me Dusty, i am a bad influence on people!
Sounds good Chris.
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I know thats right. Your a bad influence on everybody. Especially when you turn around an see head lights twisting over an over from you rolling down a hill at 1am in the morning. That scared the piss out of me. Glad yall were ok. :beer:
 
Im gonna put this in simple terms. It's been a hell of week, if it can go wrong, it has and im running way low on sleep. But, I'm waiting on a call from Oliver's to come pick up my front shaft, then throw the skid on it and a few other small things, and it'll be ready to go!!! I'll see some of yall tomorrow!!!!!
 
For know all I'm going to say is there was a mis-communication between Oliver's and me. I might be there, I might not. Dunno yet.
 
Hope you get things sorted out with Oliver's and get it done for the flats! I'm ready for the YouTube video where your jeep gets thrashed or at least romped on heavily until the tires smoke!
 
Issue Has Ben Taken Care Of. HugeThanksToDave. I'll SYal In A coupleHours.
 
Its was a interesting weekend to say the least. I only got 4 hours of sleep before heading to work Friday night, got off at 6:30 in the morning. Was able to get an hour nap in before loading up everything and running a few errands. Finally hit the road at 11:00am. Needless to say, I was exhausted. Made a pit stop in Statesville to grab a 5 hour power and kept on rolling. The last 30 miles of the drive, it took everything I had to stay awake. By the time I rolled in, I had drove a hair over 400 miles in 12 hours. I unloaded the Jeep and took a hour nap on the trailer. Met up with Dave and picked up my front shaft. Test fitted it an realized the yokes were gonna take a lot of clearancing but I came prepared for that. Also dicovered that the yoke on the 60 wasn't a 1350, but a Ford 1330. Thanks to Ol Jeeps and everyone else for the help with that. Ended up grinding the yoke out to make a 1350 fit for the weekend. Finally had it wheelable around 5:00pm. Did a couple easy trails and just rode around to get a feel for her. Right before I cut her off for the night, the motor started running funny and had a slight back fire coming out the exhaust when you let off of it from higer rpm's. Figured it was just a bad plug or wire and I'd check it out Sunday. Finally hit the bed around 11:00pm and slept for 12 hours before my buddies woke me up. Fired the Jeep up to let her warm up and the motor still wasn't right. Narrowed it down to the passenger side bank. Checked the plugs and wires and found nothing. Pulled the valve cover and the #6 intake rocker was loose. Pulled the rocker off and checked the push rod to make sure it wasn't bent, Nope. Re-lashed it and had my buddy turn the motor over, only a very small amount of valve movement. Translation, flattened lobe on the cam. That ended my weekend and I was just a rider Sunday.

Despite killing a cam, I'll still call this weekend a HUGE sucess! From what little I was able to wheel, Im overall very happy with the setup. Everything works like I wanted it to and it has tons of power. This is by far the most involved build I've done and to finally have her come to life after some much hard work was a great feeling!

Not sure at the moment which route I'm going to head with the cam. I really like where the power comes in right now but would like to be able to spin her to around 7000rpm+ with out having to worry about lifter pump up. Right now I'm leaning towards a solid flat tappet with the duration about the same, just a little more valve lift. Would love to upgrade to a roller cam so I wouldn't have to worry about killing cam lobes but I just cant see spending $1000 for a cam upgrade.

Ill prob get the motor out sometime this week and then it'll have to sit for a little bit. Need to pay some debts back before I spend anymore on this thing.

My buddy was able to get a video of this thing on Easy St!

 
Getting ready to get back on this. After some researching and talking to Comp Cams, decided to with a 282 Extreme Energy solid flat tappet cam. Has about the same duration as the old one, with little more lift and its also a solid vs. the hydraulic I was running so I'll be able to "over rev" it with out worrying about lifter pump up. Another advantage is being able to running a set of lifter that have a small hole in the bottom that gives the cam lobes a pressurized oil feed instead of relying on sling from the crank. As usual with this thing, its never just a bolt in and go.

I'm running 1.6 rockers over the factory 1.5's, keep that is mind. My old cam had .534 lift. The new cam has .576 on the exhaust side, new cam is dual pattern BTW. I'm currently running valve springs that have a installed height of 1.800 with a coil bind height of 1.150. Comp recommends a MIN safety margin of .060 before coil bind and that's where the prob is or so they say, Im not 100% sure yet. If my math is right, I should be good to go. According to my math, Take 1.800 installed, subtract .060 safety margin, subtract 1.150 coil bind height equals those springs should be good to .590 valve lift MAX. Take .590 max valve lift and subtract .576 lift with the cam and I'm .014 to the good. Their thoughts are to "upgrade" to a set of beehive springs to gain an additional .010 of spring clearance. Not sure if there was a mis-communation or what, but I'm going to order the cam and lifters only, make sure the springs are at 1.800 installed, there is no piston to valve clearance issues, and make sure the push rod length is still correct. If no piston to valve clearance issues and no coil bind, life's good. If piston to valve issues, I'll go down on rocker ratio and that will solve the spring issues as well.

Gotta love the "joys" of high performance engine building. :kaioken:
 
tireburner1975 said:
Should have just stuck with the I6

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Not at all. I like horse power too much.
ol'Jeeps said:
Aaaand...
...you expected it to be??!??!?!

:D
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Sorta, was planning upgrading the springs to a slightly stiffer spring that would work with my current retainers and locators. Not buying new springs, retainers, and locators again.
 
If you have valve/piston clearance issues, could you not use the thicker head gaskets or maybe eveb mill the piston on valve side? would not take much I would think
 
Got the motor pulled out the other and started tearing it down. Pulled the bad cam out and the #6 intake lobe and lifter were gone as I thought. Decided to pull the main bearings cap while I was in there just to check the bearings, not good. Bearings are full of metal so it'll be getting tore down the bare block, thoughly cleaned, and have all new bearings put in. The crank will be getting polished also. Good news is I caught it before any serious damage was done. Also, called my old teacher at the Forsyth Tech Race Car program and they should be able to do all the machine work for me. While the heads were on it, when ahead and mocked up the new cam and valve train. Piston to valve clearance is .104 on the exhaust and .125 on the intake so that's good. Probably going to need a longer set of push rods, looks like this cam is ground on a slightly smaller base circle. Couldn't find anything to get a good pattern on the valve stem with the checking springs on it. Plan is to finish tearing the motor down this weekend and drop the block and crank off first of next week.
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