500HP YJ Build

Looking good dude.
 
Finished the rear brakes lines today and bleed the brakes. Need to make some tabs to hold the soft lines coming from the calipers and the rear end will be 100% done! Found out the master isn't pushing enough fluid. Currently running a Ford Farmont, 1" bore. Going to get a E350 master, 1 1/8" bore, and should solve that problem. Got the hole cut in the hood from the air filter and installed hood pins so when I cut the grille out for radiator clearance.

IMG_20130923_100056_043.jpg
IMG_20130923_133452_733.jpg
ResizedImage_1379952998743.jpg
ResizedImage_1379952999198.jpg
 
Thanks man, Looking like Im gonna make The Flatts in a couple weeks. Gonna have the sammi ready?

Nope. Too busy with the new house. I haven't had time to fix it, and won't have time to go wheeling for a little while longer.
 
The paint is starting to flake on your hood.
 
Nope. Too busy with the new house. I haven't had time to fix it, and won't have time to go wheeling for a little while longer.

That stinks man, reckon the "joys" of getting old. lol.
The paint is starting to flake on your hood.
I never noticed. lol. Have something in the works for that, just need to do a little more sheet metal work first.
 
Have gotten some more things done on this. Rode down to Mars Fab Wednesday once I get off work. Had him weld to some 6AN fittings on the trans cooler, relocate the radaitor brackets to move in further away from the motor, and install a taruas fan on there. Huge thanks going to Chris for the help! Thursday, started cutting the grill shell to get the radiator in there, still have a little to go. Also, rode by Oliver's and picked up my rear 1/4" wall shaft. Dave was able to re-use some parts I brought him and save me some serious coin, can't ask for better service than that. Today, had to catch up on some sleep, but I was able to get the new master cylinder on. Ended up using a 78 Mercury Marquis with hydro boost and rear disc's. Brakes feel much better but still a little soft, prob have some air in the lines. Also have a 1350 super flex joint on the way for the rear shaft. If things go according to plan, this thing should move under its own power buy the end of the weekend!!!
 
Glad your making progress Chris. Keep up the good work.
 
Made some more progress today. Got the radaitor, fan, and power steering cooler re-mounted. Have about a 3/4" of an inch of clearance between the fan and water pump so life's good there. Just have to wire it up, new hoses should be at the Zone tomorrow. My super flex joint came in today so got that installed in the rear shaft and things look much better. Still going to have to do a small amount of grinding just to be on the safe side.

ResizedImage_1380412201675.jpg
ResizedImage_1380412202275.jpg
 
Got the radiator hoses on it today and finished re-plumbing the power steering cooler. Upper hose is for a 62 C-10 and lower is for a 69 C-10. Got the Tauras fan wired up for low and high, and installed some more switches for the engine fan and trans fan.

Also decided to change routes on the trans shifter. The Z-gate I had would be a total pain to change more than one gear at a time. Decided to go with Hurst Quarter Stick. That came in the other day and will work MUCH better. With some minor grinding, will be able to go from first to reverse and back in the blink of an eye and will also have the ability to have positive stops for every gear.
ResizedImage_1380513257397.jpg
ResizedImage_1380513258157.jpg
ResizedImage_1380513258625.jpg
 
Last edited:
Been working on little things this week and got to point I could drive it yesterday. Was disappointing. The convertor I had made is stalling way low, around 1800rpm instead of 2800 rpm. The major suckage is this puts the motor under way too much load at idle. For it to idle at 700 in gear, park idle has to be 1400. In high range, its hard to hold with the brakes, in double low it drives right threw the brakes. Waiting on a call back from the guy that built the converter. Regardless of what he says, it looks like the motor will be coming out this weekend. Not where I wanted to be at this point.
 
That issue is not always uncommon to keep from overheating the trans on the trail... Most guys just learn to bump into neutral when they stop.

No doubt and a good tip. Big issue is with the big cam, it'll load load up and cut off after about 10-15 sec of idling. That'd be a royal PIA.
 
Friday morning, did a little more motor tuning and still not right. The guy that built the converter said he would call me Friday morning but I never heard back from him. After a little more thinking and realizing I was running out of time, called Doug Herbert Performance and they were able to get a me a 10" 3000-3200 stall. Also, dropped the jeep off at a buddies shop to have him build a floor for me.

After driving all night for work, drove to Concord the morning to pick the converter. Then jumped in the tow rig and picked the Jeep. Floor turned out awesome! A huge thanks going to the crew at Automotive Concepts in Greensboro. Just got back to the house. Going to take a nap for a few, then pull the motor to swap out the converter. Hopefully will have it back together this evening and life should be much better.
 
Just finished up with the converter swap and from what little I've drove it, life is much better. Idle quality is much better, can hold it with the brakes in double low, and its not near as jumpy. Got her loaded on the trailer to head to my place for some engine tuning tomorrow.
 
Hehehe!
Time to roll my friend.

Yes sir, Finally! But no rolling like you. lol.

Taking a lunch break atm, motors getting there but not 100% yet. Got a few more tricks up my sleeve. Look for some videos later.
 
Its been a VERY good day! Got this thing running like a raped ape. Still need to do some accelerator pump tuning to get a slight bog out under full throttle but other than that its all good. I have 10.5" vacuum at idle in park at 1100 rpm. Drop it in gear, vacuum drops to 5.5" and idle to 800 rpm. To put it mildly, this thing lives up to its name. :burnout:In high range, it'll spin the tires threw second gear, drop it single low and I cant change gears fast enough. But, put it in double low, and it'll idle around at 800rpm till you get to a slight hill. Bring to the rpm's to 1200ish and the tires start pulling very smoothly so it's able to crawl or haul a**! For the people thinking a 3000rpm stall is too high, I'm gonna say your wrong in this case. Don't have a trans temp gauge on it but after and hour to beating on it for an hour, could hold the outlet and inlet fitting with my hand for as long as I wanted. Also, after beating on it for a good while, the engine temp got to 210 with the fan on high, after 5 min sitting at idle was down to 190 and will stablize at 170. Overall very happy with it at this point!

Only real issues I have is a the alternator like to smoke the belt when first started and will throw the belt in the higher rpm's, put a new alternator on it thinking bearings were bad but that's not the case. Pulleys look lined up so not sure what's going on there. With everything turned on, the voltage is 13.6 at idle. Also, going to do the West Texas flow mod to the power steering pump, its fine a low speeds but steering is real slow for quick steering at higher rpms. Also, the front main seal is leaking, only thing I didn't replace when I built the motor. lol.

Was able to get a video. In hi range. First time round with the 2-step turned on at 5200, second with the high side on at 6600.



ResizedImage_1381114793062.jpg
ResizedImage_1381114793712.jpg
ResizedImage_1381114794255.jpg
ResizedImage_1381114794687.jpg
ResizedImage_1381114795087.jpg
ResizedImage_1381114795400.jpg
ResizedImage_1381114795726.jpg
 
SOUNDS REAL GOOD. Are you going to be able to crawl any? Or just hill shoot? Lot of cam in that motor.

He should have NEVER rode with me Dusty, i am a bad influence on people!
Sounds good Chris.
 
Back
Top