78 k10 step side daily driver build

[91samurai]

I made a copy of an awesome plasma cutter guide is saw in a YouTube video. I tigged it together with filler because the top was melting away. Because I used filler I had to grind the welds down to make it sit at a true 90 degree.

The plasma was runnin good. The new guide also worked great.

These are the boxing plates I made to reinforce the frame below the gooseneck.

I installed my new stubby gas lense kit that I got for Christmas tonight.

 

[91samurai]

Excuse the blurry pick. When I was wire wheeling the frame, I got a little to close to the rusty part of the brake line, and instant hole that dumped brake fluid out. I just removed it to fix later.

Since this was finally a dry day I painted the entire rear frame top and bottom. Before painting I welded the boxing plates under the goose neck and rewelded the weld on top of the goose neck. Now I just have to buy a new raised shank hitch ball.

While I have no intention of painting the inside of a beat up pick-up bed; There was a good amount of rust along the bottom of the box. After hitting it with the wire wheel I sprayed it just above or even with where the wood will sit in the bed, so even if you can see it, it will be very little new paint.

 

[91samurai]

Wow, long time no update.

To start, I cut all my new wood for the bed. I then picked the order I thought the wood looked the best.

I began to restore the threads on the sm465 shifter. I started with hack sawing the section with stripped threads. Next I chased the threads with a die.

I've had this idea floating around in my head for a while. So I decided to make a square shift knob. I capped one end and made a pyramid with some pieces of 1/8th inch plate on the other. I cut the end until a 3/8s fine thread nut would slide in. Next I welded the nut and ground it flush.

I installed my shocks and my dad started on the wiring. Next I installed the gas tank. Then I got the truck running for the first time in several months. A little cranking to get fuel flowing was all it took.

Friday I didn't work on the k10, I prepped the samurai for the flats on Saturday. Just taking care of some little things that have been bugging me for a while.(loose bolts, wired the license plate light, topped off fluids, etc)



Quick video of the samurai doing work at the flats. Can't remember that name of the trail, but I was really slick.

The bumper supports have been sitting around for a while, just not installed. To prepare for dropping the bed back on I installed those and my dad finished up the tail light wiring.(with provisions for trailer lights)

And..... Dropped the bed back on. I know it's not sitting on the mounts correctly, but it looks awesome.

 

[91samurai]

Got the rear drive shaft back in today.



Threw together another video of the samurai, from the flats last Saturday.

 

[91samurai]

Got my spare wheel in the mail. It's a bart 15x8 6x5.5 The hub bore is 4.25 so it will fit over the 10 bolt hub. And the best part, it cost 45 bucks .

The previous owner had ripped out the factory flange. So I made a new one and plug welded it on.

Since I just started the cpcc GM ASEP Program, I've picked up a couple new tools . The sockets are Tekton 3/8 metric impact sockets, deep and shallow; and a nice multimeter.

Today I started by filling the trans, the t-case, and the front diff with oil; 2.5 gallons worth! Wired the tail lights, bled the brakes, filled the power steering fluid, bled the brakes again, and took it for a drive. Ran great, It idles high and I have a bent axle shaft; but it was awesome. However it is very different from driving a normal car(kinda like my samurai). I have a set of spare shafts, so i'll just through the spare in.

 

[91samurai]

I started to remove the axle shaft this afternoon, I removed the wheel and started to inspect the brakes. I discovered the brake rotor wasn't fully seated on the back of the axle shaft. With the axle shaft removed I hammered out the studs. Next I used a carbide bur to lightly clearance the inner taper of the rotor. After a few test fits to make sure I hadn't removed to much material, it fit perfect.

I pulled the studs back in and reinstalled the shaft. Next I reassembled the axle. To get rid of the last of the noises I clearanced the caliper very lightly. Then I hoped in the truck and went for a test drive, I was able to get on it a little more than before, it shifts slow but moves out .

 

[91samurai]

Today I mounted the tool box in bed today. The box doesn't look very big but, it's 19inches deep. There's definitely some room inside it. My original plan was to put it on the other side and mount the spare standing up behind the driver, to maximize visibility. But now the current plan is to mount it under the bed. I moved it to the driver side to be able to access it from the driver side of the truck. Eventually i'm going to make a extra spare tire/ gas can mount for when it the truck is serving tow pig duties.

The box is mounted with 4 half inch bolts. I was worried about the strength of just the bolts, so the set of bolts on each side are tied together with some 1/8x2 aluminum.

And on the bottom the front set and the rear set of bolts are tied together with some 1.5x1/8 flatbar. this makes it very strong because it spreads the load out across all the boards under the toolbox.

I also stickered up the inside of my toolbox lid.

Over the past several days i've been driving the truck 2-3 times a day, on about a 15 min loop on the streets around my house. Every thing seems to be working good so it may go on a small adventure to the gas station tomorrow. The brakes are good and the engine runs good. (good enough to knock my leatherman out of the dash if you get on the gas) The transmission shifts good and the harnesses are comfortable.

 

[91samurai]

After doing some like stuff, like mounting the spare tire and installing the tow hooks, I cruised the truck down to the gas station.

After a successful trip to the gas station I figured it would be good to go to the parts store. I even swung by waverly to try out granny gear after. The whole trip was probably about 25-30 miles. The truck ran great, except the wire for the oil pressure gauge fell off while driving through the field. The gearing feels about perfect, you can accelerate in any gear.

 

[91samurai]

I decided while I had the dash out to fix the headlight switch, I would make a matching brushed aluminum panel for the dash pad. My old one was falling off.

The finished product came out great! I even reused the scottsdale logo from the original.

I loaded up the samurai for the open ride at the shop last weekend.

..........And I proceeded to do this after being on the trail for half an hour. I was all the way at the top of pebble playground just before the v notch, trying to turn right out of the rocks. The drivers front tire went up a rock just as the right rear dropped in a hole. It rolled on the passenger side, then the top, then stopped on the driver side when it hit a tree. I can't remember when the engine died, but you better believe that when it came back down on the driver side I had the gas pedal buried in the floor. My first instinct was that If a tree wasn't going to stop me I was going to try and drive out of it. The total damage was: all the oil in the trans leaked out, a hole and several scuffs in the soft top, both door frames are bent, the targa took three hard hits, dented the hood, dented all of the fender flares, dented passenger front fender, and crushed the top corner of the windshield frame. A huge thanks goes out to the guys that arrived right before I rolled it, they had me flipped back over in less than 10 mins. The windshield survived .

The worst damage was to the right side of the targa bar. It took a massive hit when it flopped on the side in the beginning of the roll. I'm really glad I took the doors off.

On sunday I threw some welds down on some end caps on the pivot of a set of fold down trailer ramps.

This afternoon the K10 got some new kicks! 31x10.50x15 Procomp Xteme MT2 mounted up on the factory rally wheels, with trim rings . I'm driving on the highway for the first time tomorrow morning on my way to class. I am also going to align it in the school shop tomorrow.

It looks to me like the new tires even raised the ride height a little.

 

[Infamous1]

I went through the ASEP program GTCC, good program. Ole gal is looking good man, time to enjoy all your work for a little while now!!

 

[91samurai]

I threw the truck on the alignment rack in class yesterday. It runs down the highway like any other truck I've driven.

 

[91samurai]

I went through the ASEP program GTCC, good program. Ole gal is looking good man, time to enjoy all your work for a little while now!!

Thanks man. I'm really enjoying the asep program. It's really awesome to walk out to the parking lot and see my truck.

I drove the truck to Cpcc for the first time yesterday, I had been out of the truck for less than a minute and somebody offered to trade my truck for their Silverado on 35s. That's not gunna happen, but it's cool to know people like the truck.

 

[91samurai]

Last weekend I didn't get much done just fiddled with stuff to make it more daily drivable. Made all the side marker lights work(cab lights still aren't wired) trouble shooted some electrical problems i've been having and bought a solid back window.

Then on Sunday I drove the truck down to the pond and fished a little. Didn't catch anything but it was nice to fish some.

 

[91samurai]

Lately I've been seeing alot of low cog willys popping up on pirate, and looking at tim hardy's samurai.

I'm really interested in modifying my suspension to bring the ride height down, Alot. At least 4 in. Would it be better to go spring under to slam the ride height or raising the front and rear spring perches. Id prefer to not remove the spring perches and weld new ones on, but i'm thinking a shackle reversal will help dump the front. One worry I have is spring under would lose a lot of ground clearance. A possible issue is the tires getting into the fender flares, so I plan to move the fender flares up on the body, same as the red sami above. I can get at least 3in more wheels well clearance at the top without modifying the stock fender wells.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

If I'm not mistaken that is Meiser's 42? Willys. A spring under would be the easiest way to achieve a low COG. Clearance would only be affected by 2-4" at the perch mount(mount and leafs). I still have not set up the suspension on my Willys but I am shooting for a low(ish) stable platform.

 

[91samurai]

If I'm not mistaken that is Meiser's 42? Willys. A spring under would be the easiest way to achieve a low COG. Clearance would only be affected by 2-4" at the perch mount(mount and leafs). I still have not set up the suspension on my Willys but I am shooting for a low(ish) stable platform.

Yep it sure is. I'm thinking of making a bolt on sua spring perch that indexes off of the current spring perches to give me the opportunity to try it out without permanent modification. All I would need to change is install the rear bump stops I have sitting in a box. I could reuse all the current hardware and brakes/drivelines/springs. I am planning on making a traction bar, so i'll just wait until its lowered. My steering shouldn't need modification, just adjustment.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

Yep it sure is. I'm thinking of making a bolt on sua spring perch that indexes off of the current spring perches to give me the opportunity to try it out without permanent modification. All I would need to change is install the rear bump stops I have sitting in a box. I could reuse all the current hardware and brakes/drivelines/springs. I am planning on making a traction bar, so i'll just wait until its lowered. My steering shouldn't need modification, just adjustment.

There are SOA kits for Samis that basically do the same you are thinking. Meisers Willys uses a custom frame, iirc, but low COG is possible.
@drkelly on here ran 34 LTBs on his zuk with SUA YJs.

 

[drkelly]

There are SOA kits for Samis that basically do the same you are thinking. Meisers Willys uses a custom frame, iirc, but low COG is possible.
@drkelly on here ran 34 LTBs on his zuk with SUA YJs.

Yep, I ran YJ springs SUA on my Samurai. I designed the spring hanger relocation plates and had a coworker cut them on the laser for me. I used YJ HD shackles on the rear, and a homemade/XJ goofy shackle on the front. I cut the body pretty good for clearance, and ran 34" LTB's. I moved the front axle forward about 1" by re-drilling the spring perches, and move the rear axle rearward the same amount using the same method. Here is a picture.

 

[91samurai]

Yep, I ran YJ springs SUA on my Samurai. I designed the spring hanger relocation plates and had a coworker cut them on the laser for me. I used YJ HD shackles on the rear, and a homemade/XJ goofy shackle on the front. I cut the body pretty good for clearance, and ran 34" LTB's. I moved the front axle forward about 1" by re-drilling the spring perches, and move the rear axle rearward the same amount using the same method. Here is a picture.

View attachment 241986

Your samurai looks like what i'm planning for mine just on 31s. Did you mod the stock inner fenders? What did you do for u-bolts? Stock bump stops? How much up travel? I'm already on yjs, so mine will be similar to yours.

I have yet to finish repairing the roll over damage, so it will be a while before I can start on the spring perches. I'm planning on high clearance u bolt plates but with a top u bolt plate as well so I can use bolts instead of buying new u bolts.

 

[91samurai]

@drkelly Were you running stock axles? If so what mods(shafts, gears, lockers)?

 

[drkelly]

Your samurai looks like what i'm planning for mine just on 31s. Did you mod the stock inner fenders? What did you do for u-bolts? Stock bump stops? How much up travel? I'm already on yjs, so mine will be similar to yours.

I have yet to finish repairing the roll over damage, so it will be a while before I can start on the spring perches. I'm planning on high clearance u bolt plates but with a top u bolt plate as well so I can use bolts instead of buying new u bolts.

- Stock U-bolts. No need to change them
- Home made spring plates in the front, and some CJ ones in the back that I got from a buddy. The stock ones won't work because the YJ springs are wider than the Samurai springs.
- I completely removed the front inner fenders in order to get enough room for the 34" tires. I made a new 'higher clearance' driver side inner fender out of some scrap aluminum to protect the air filter from mud and water. I cut the rear inner fenders slightly to make room.
- Stock bump stops in the front, but I lowered them 1" to prevent he axle from hitting the oil pan. I have a 1.6 16v with the Petroworks mounts.
- Rear bump stops were just the stock ones off my old Ford Bronco
- I think it had about 3" of up travel in the front originally, and maybe 2" after years of beatings.
- I think the rear had about 4" of up travel originally, and maybe 3" later.

 

[drkelly]

@drkelly Were you running stock axles? If so what mods(shafts, gears, lockers)?

Stock Samurai axles, but Trail Tough double tough chromo shafts in the front. Stock gearing in the axles. Lock Right in the front and welded rear. I wheeled it like that for many years and broke a couple of long side rear axle shafts and one of the chromo front shafts. I ran grade 12.9 cap screws from Low Range Off Road for the lockouts, but still broke them twice. Overall, that combination put up with a lot of abuse.

Here is my original build thread that was started 10 yrs ago:
Another virtual lift

I like your truck.

 

[91samurai]

Stock Samurai axles, but Trail Tough double tough chromo shafts in the front. Stock gearing in the axles. Lock Right in the front and welded rear. I wheeled it like that for many years and broke a couple of long side rear axle shafts and one of the chromo front shafts. I ran grade 12.9 cap screws from Low Range Off Road for the lockouts, but still broke them twice. Overall, that combination put up with a lot of abuse.

Here is my original build thread that was started 10 yrs ago:
Another virtual lift

Thats really helpful, thanks. I could see 33s in my future but since tires are so expensive I wont be buying any till these wear out. If I decide to stay with the lower ride height the fender mods are on my list of things to do. For now I plan to just bump stop it before I gets into the fender flares.

 

[91samurai]

I haven't done much to the truck other than drive it in the past week.

Installed the front driveshaft. I have working 4 wheel drive now. My list of things to do before hitting some mud is getting shorter and shorter.

Gm training and helping take care of this little pup has taken away most of my time. Already training her to ride on the toolbox.

 

[91samurai]

Repaired the targa and the door frames on the Suzuki. Repaired on the bottom and not repaired on the top.

My last repair is to patch this hole in the soft top. Does anybody have any experience fixing a hole in a soft top? I have some loctite brand fabric adhesive and a junk lj soft top, I was considering cutting a patch from the junk top and gluing it behind the tear with lots of adhesive.