'82 Jeep Scrambler Daily Driver

Got a little more done on Sunday; case drilled and tapped for sight tube, and the notch ground out for the new intermediate gear install. Also got the front output assembly together and almost the rear, but the rear output bearing is whooping my ass trying to get it installed with my chisel and hammer. Front output bearings tapped right into place, but whew the rear is working me!

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I've also discovered that used baby formula cans are really freaking handy.
 
Got a little more done on Sunday; case drilled and tapped for sight tube, and the notch ground out for the new intermediate gear install. Also got the front output assembly together and almost the rear, but the rear output bearing is whooping my ass trying to get it installed with my chisel and hammer. Front output bearings tapped right into place, but whew the rear is working me!

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I've also discovered that used baby formula cans are really freaking handy.

My best advice. Since we basically have the same sight tube locations. Do not do not forget to put that elbow fitting in its spot before you get the rear housing on.

I had my rear housing on and RTV'd. Boy was that thing a bastard trying to get back off just to thread in the elbow.

Looks good :)


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My best advice. Since we basically have the same sight tube locations. Do not do not forget to put that elbow fitting in its spot before you get the rear housing on.

I had my rear housing on and RTV'd. Boy was that thing a bastard trying to get back off just to thread in the elbow.

Looks good :)


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Haha I actually read your thread after you posted it that. It has been my mantra up to this point!
 
That bearing was a mother to install! Even mushroomed the ends of a virgin punch.

And if that wasn't bad enough, the LAST seal I had to remove/replace fought me the whole way as well.

I am going to go through the exercise of setting the preload on the rear output since I'm using some not so standard shims..

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Following along closely as I'll be doing the same with my 300 in the coming weeks. Looks good!
 
Following along closely as I'll be doing the same with my 300 in the coming weeks. Looks good!

I wouldn't follow too close, you're bound to get yours together before me! It's taken me two months to get this far what with keeping the work/wife/kids happy. I think I could have done that whole rebuild/install in one weekend if I had the free time.
 
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With your oil sight tube, what size tap did you end up using for the elbows? Also, have you changed out the balls/springs yet? Got any better pictures of your cable mount?
 
With your oil sight tube, what size tap did you end up using for the elbows? Also, have you changed out the balls/springs yet? Got any better pictures of your cable mount?

Tap for those particular fittings is 1/4-18 NPT.
In the TeraLow instructions they use a small washer between the spring and the ball, soo that's what I did too.
No cable mount yet, but it is going to mimic the Northwest Fab mount as I am using their shifters and cables.
 
Finally got the cables in.
I'm going to spend this weekend on some odds and ends things that need addressing though, like finally wiring the reverse lights since the AX15 swap, rewiring the 4wd indicator switch (it was broken), resealing the rear end because I didn't use enough RTV the first go round :mad:, and installing a new oil pan gasket. Then time for cable mock up.

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Edit: weather depending I'm going to get all that stuff done... :rolleyes:
 
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Well it's rained off and on all day but I managed to get the 4x4 indicator wiring fixed, got the reverse lights figured out, then learned the fun way that my Tool Aid ratcheting crimpers aren't designed to crimp weatherpak fittings. Yay.
 
Here a comparison of the old cables vs. the new. The picture isn't exact, but it should visualize the difference between the two.

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I also think I've got the cable bracket template finalized. Unless anyone here has anything to say about it, this is what I'm going to have cut out. It's amazing how much time goes in to making a template correct. I almost had to buy more beer for the cardboard! :p

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All put back together, let's hope it doesn't blow up on my way to work!

I also received an email Monday that said my shift cables are on their way.

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Where did you get your fittings from for the sight tube? I have tried to compression style fittings like that and both leak :/

However it looks like that slip pieces (green rings) on that are not metal. I had a brass one and a stainless steel one from McMaster and they are bringing the suck.


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Finally got my cable mount cut out. It's not quite as nice as I had envisioned, mostly due to the fact that I cut it out with a torch and finished it out with my angle grinder and this sweet setup:

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But it fits and looks like it will work. I made my shift rail sleeves out of 1/2" sch40 pipe that I reamed to fit.
I will hopefully get the tabs welded to the sleeves today or tomorrow and get this back in the Jeep!

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I think you will find that your bracket is plenty sufficient. I only have the two top bolts holding mine on there and it seems to be okay. I increased the stiffness of the detents too. I am still getting used to the shifting compared to my np231. It seems you cannot shift at a standstill (I don't want to bend a shift fork or wear on the cables too hard).


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Well things have gone pretty much how I envisioned them going, which is not to plan.

I failed to note just how close the outside edge of the case is to the hat channel on the floor pan.

My plan now is to either notch my bracket, beat the hat channel in a little bit, or a combination of both.
On my notch pattern, the thinnest area is somewhere around 1/4".. I'm a little concerned about that..

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This piece of hat channel right here (picture right) can kiss my ass. I beat it with my 2lb hammer and then with the air hammer to try and flatten out the inside edge of it. You can see how well that went. So, I've ground down my bracket even more.

It looks thin in this picture, but it's at least 1/4" thick at it's thinnest. Is that too thin? I hope not

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I'm sure there was an easier way to do this. Should I have just cut the hat channel? I'm sure it extends that far for a reason.
Should I have just cut the floor? Maybe, but I lack the know how (and tools) to make the patch look decent.
Was there another, better, option? Probably....

Hopefully this will work as I'm hoping it will.
 
I feel you will mess up your cable shifters before you hurt your bracket. I wouldn't lose sleep over that :)


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OOOOOOOOOKKKKKKKKK. Still hits the hat channel, I keep grinding it down and it's getting to the point where I just don't feel comfortable taking anymore material out. Along with hitting the one thin spot, it's now hitting the top of the bracket as well.

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So here's my current plan. I have more than enough room to drop the cables down closer to the transfer case, that will shrink the whole bracket and get the top of it away from the hat channel that makes up the trans tunnel. I will fill in the shaded area, if not more, to still allow me to use the 4x4 indicator but hopefully give me enough material to clearance the hat channel that strengthens the floor (the area I beat with my hammer earlier).

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That's the current plan anyway....:rolleyes:
 
Just space the bracket off the case a little more and entirely close in the area around your 4x4 indicator and be done. Then you can shave the bracket all you need without worry
 
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