'82 Jeep Scrambler Daily Driver

Went on one last little drive and then tore into it.




I tried to combine those two videos.. for the life of me I couldn't figure it out.
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It came apart really easy. Like kinda scary easy, but I guess it hadn't been on there that long.....

This is probably going to go as smooth as sandpaper :rolleyes:



If anyone near Raleigh has the capability to make the bracket I need for the cable shifters let me know!!
 
Got the case emptied out, but I've run into two.. hiccups.

On the shim pack for the rear output, one of the shims has been ground to almost nothing. The seal kit I bought doesn't include these shims.. I haven't looked yet but hopefully I can buy this shims somewhere

Second, and a little more upsetting, while I was trying to get the rear output bearing pressed off I buggered up the threads :mad:
I'm going to go to Hamlin's machine next week and see if they can fix those threads. If not.. I'm going to try to find a replacement shaft I guess.

Also, since I have it stripped I'm going to see if I can find a fab shop that can make the bracket for my cable shifters, I'd like all one bent piece. But that might just be a dream.

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orange150 said:
Got the case emptied out, but I've run into two.. hiccups.

On the shim pack for the rear output, one of the shims has been ground to almost nothing. The seal kit I bought doesn't include these shims.. I haven't looked yet but hopefully I can buy this shims somewhere

Second, and a little more upsetting, while I was trying to get the rear output bearing pressed off I buggered up the threads :mad:
I'm going to go to Hamlin's machine next week and see if they can fix those threads. If not.. I'm going to try to find a replacement shaft I guess.

Also, since I have it stripped I'm going to see if I can find a fab shop that can make the bracket for my cable shifters, I'd like all one bent piece. But that might just be a dream.

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I used either shims for some pinion, or I ordered shims the appropriate size from McMaster.

May want to check at ECGS to see if they have the correct size on the shelf.

I wanna say it was pinion shims I had left over, and I used shim stock to cut the the correct one for the front output from McMaster
 
Mac5005 said:
I used either shims for some pinion, or I ordered shims the appropriate size from McMaster.

May want to check at ECGS to see if they have the correct size on the shelf.

I wanna say it was pinion shims I had left over, and I used shim stock to cut the the correct one for the front output from McMaster
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Thanks, good ideas.

paradisePWoffrd said:
Those threads should be able to be chased without much issue. Could probly take a thread file to them with no issue.
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I hope so! I think I'm more mad because it's like auto shop 201 on how to protect threads while pressing out a bearing :rolleyes:
 
With the way the cables lay out on top of the D300 it puts the cable mounts further back than I had anticipated.

It looks like I could use a piece of angle iron mounted to the top of the case to install them; but is it a good idea to drill and tap holes up top like that?
Or should I still plan to mount off the front output cover like most of the other guys do?

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And another issue done.

The guys at ECGS didn't have quite the right size on the shelf, but they said it being a little larger shouldn't be an issue. They also gave me enough shims to lose a few, drop and ruin a few, etc. Haha

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I think I've got someone that can bend up my cable mount bracket too. Maybe this will go smoother than anticipated?


Edit to add that this is probably the millionth time ECGS has helped me out with something. Really can't say enough good things about them.
 
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orange150 said:
And another issue done.

The guys at ECGS didn't have quite the right size on the shelf, but they said it being a little larger shouldn't be an issue. They also gave me enough shims to lose a few, drop and ruin a few, etc. Haha

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I think I've got someone that can bend up my cable mount bracket too. Maybe this will go smoother than anticipated?


Edit to add that this is probably the millionth time ECGS has helped me out with something. Really can't say enough good things about them.
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In case you need a ball park, when I pulled my 300 apart the shim pack was 0.027 inch. I know they are all different but I thought I would just throw that out there.


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NickMaul said:
In case you need a ball park, when I pulled my 300 apart the shim pack was 0.027 inch. I know they are all different but I thought I would just throw that out there.


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Thank you!! I was just going to wing it with what I had and adding a little to account for what had been ground away from that worn out shim....
 
orange150 said:
Thank you!! I was just going to wing it with what I had and adding a little to account for what had been ground away from that worn out shim....
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You putting new bearings and races in it while it is apart?


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Nope. Doing it quick and cheap.

Nothing that I've seen while pulling it apart raised any flags, so I'm pressing on with it.

Aside from that shim pack that is.. Everything else appears to be in good working condition.
 
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In my haste to get the shifters figured out I failed to notice that the NWF shifter assembly only fits their cables.
The good thing about that though is that their cable assembly is shorter on the operational ends, the downside is that I haven't been able to find cables anywhere that are that short so I guess I'm buying straight from them, and I have to pay to return the cables I bought from McMaster.

The other good thing using their short cables is that I think my bracket will look similar to the NWF bracket (below) and only need to be a flat piece of stock with no bends in it.

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orange150 said:
In my haste to get the shifters figured out I failed to notice that the NWF shifter assembly only fits their cables.
The good thing about that though is that their cable assembly is shorter on the operational ends, the downside is that I haven't been able to find cables anywhere that are that short so I guess I'm buying straight from them, and I have to pay to return the cables I bought from McMaster.

The other good thing using their short cables is that I think my bracket will look similar to the NWF bracket (below) and only need to be a flat piece of stock with no bends in it.

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Dang that sucks.
 
Do you have a close up picture of the NWF shifters? I am going to buy the shifter and cables from either jb shifters or nwf. I have read jb shifters quality is top notch but was curious what your opinion is of the shifters with just a visual inspection.


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NickMaul said:
Do you have a close up picture of the NWF shifters? I am going to buy the shifter and cables from either jb shifters or nwf. I have read jb shifters quality is top notch but was curious what your opinion is of the shifters with just a visual inspection.


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Based on pictures that I've seen of the JB cable assemblies, and my NWF shifter, it appears that the JB is a bit better quality.

The NWF is made from steel cut from cnc parts and welded together. You should be able to see in the pictures where they are all notched to fit together and get welded up.

I would say that my biggest qualm with this shifter is that they didn't account for the thickness of the powder coat when milling parts. It's hard to see in the pictures, but I had to completely scrape all the powder coat off of the shifter where the clevises mount because they didn't take out for the powder coat when they milled it down.

They also included enough nylon washers so that each shifter would have gotten two washers, but again due to the powder coat I could only fit three total.
The shifters are mounted using a shoulder bolt, but they drilled the housing to accept the full shoulder diameter, instead of drilling one side to accept the shoulder and one side to accept the thread diameter.

I might be getting a little too pedantic with those last two issues. But they bugged me none the less..
No matter what though I doubt I will have any issues with it at all, and NWF was great to deal with. And above all else, and why I chose this over the JB unit, is that it fit the CJ tunnel cover without any modifications :D

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Edit: I just realized that I need to turn the two small shoulder bolts around that are holding on those clevises :shaking:
 
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Wow thanks for the close up pictures. I am torn but it looks like the shifter mechanism that JB offers might be a bit better even though they are a bit more expensive.
 
New cables ordered from NWF. They're back ordered, of course; 2 - 3 weeks to NWF, then another week(ish) to me.

I guess that gives my slack ass enough time to get my transfercase back together and some other odds and ends things buttoned up.
 
Picked up what is hopefully the last of the small parts for the D300.
Went to Cross to get the parts for a sight tube. The guys there seemed to think that this opaque tubing would hold up better than the clear PVC type tubing that most people use.. I don't know. We'll see I guess.

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I also had to get some parts to go back in the spots where I hammered out the stops for the shift rail pills. I don't think most people end up having to do this, but the front output housing that I'm using only had one pill in it and the person who modified it just filled the holes with RTV, so here we are.

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And of course I had to by taps and drills for all of that.
 
Slowwwly picking away at it.

Got the shift rail housing / front bearing retainer modified and back together, those detent springs were a bigger PITA than I thought they were going to be!

I also ground down the front shift rail to allow me to get into front high without having the rear engaged. My only reason for doing that (like I'm going to be doing front digs :rolleyes: ) is in case something happens with the rear, I'd like to be able to limp home, or to safety.

It was also my first time using the bearing race insert tool I bought two years ago. I give it a solid Meh. I still used a brass drift to get the race started in the house, and kept using it until I needed to get the race all the way seating in the housing.

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