'82 Jeep Scrambler Daily Driver

Engine mounts also came in. Like 30 minutes ago.

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This took a surprising amount of work.
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In my mind, attaching the trans and slinging the whole assembly in made sense, but I think the MORE engine mounts made that way more difficult. It took A LOT of wiggling, twisting, and pivoting to get the mounts to line up correctly. I think with the OE mounts it would have been a lot easier. Without the trans attached I’m sure it would have been easier.

Also very surprised how far back the engine sits in the engine bay, if it was a race car I’d be happy
 
This took a surprising amount of work.
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In my mind, attaching the trans and slinging the whole assembly in made sense, but I think the MORE engine mounts made that way more difficult. It took A LOT of wiggling, twisting, and pivoting to get the mounts to line up correctly. I think with the OE mounts it would have been a lot easier. Without the trans attached I’m sure it would have been easier.

Also very surprised how far back the engine sits in the engine bay, if it was a race car I’d be happy
You even got the tweeters so you can blast that trap music while cruising the block!
 
Who are the AMC v8 guys here? @amcjeepman @AdamH

Does this look right on my belt routing? It feels off to me.
I had to shim the pulley on the water pump way out, and looks like I need to shim it some more.
The the outer most pulleys on the water pump and the crank are left empty.

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The Alternator belt also goes around the Water pump pulley. Looks like the water pump pulley need to move back. There is an issue with pulley clearance on some of the aftermarket water pump castings if I remember correctly. So, the Alternator belt should be on the back W/P groove ant the P/S on the front groove.
 
Thanks @amcjeepman
I’ll pull the shims back off the water pump pulley to triple check my sanity, but I’m fairly certain it won’t sit back far enough to align with the third pulley back on the crank.
 
You may be too far past this but I use CVF Racing for all front accessories when needed. Never an issue.
 
Took the spacers out of the WP pulley. The furthest back groove isn’t all that bad, but the middle is way off.
I’m going to pretend to look for another matching pulley set for a few days before I just buy the CVF set

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Totally agree with James - I have 3 and 3 on mine and all lines up perfectly
 
I think the issue may be that you have a 3 groove Crank pulley and a 2 groove W/P pulley. Should be 2 and 2 or 3 and 3.

Totally agree with James - I have 3 and 3 on mine and all lines up perfectly
Don't forget the early 70's cutover from "short" to "long" waterpumps (the early being near impossible to find) ganking the alignment...
 
Been gone basically all summer.

While I was away I decided I’m going to change my tactic on finishing this install. I had moved to the exhaust as it’s going to take me the longest to do, but after running into a few snags I’m going to finish everything else then do the exhaust last. That way I can plainly see where things will lie.. and if I get frustrated I can tow it to an exhaust shop 😂

I did break down and ordered the CVF pulleys

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Small win, I thought I lost the oil pressure sensor block fitting from when I originally disassembled the engine, but found it today while looking for some 7/16 hardware

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Finally got around to getting the oil pressure switch and sensor installed.
It didn’t even cross my mind to install all this when I had the engine apart.
I couldn’t fit an off the shelf 5/16 square drive bit without taking the oil pump assembly off, which I wasn’t going to do, so I made a shorty out of a bolt from the bolt bin.

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Transfer case is back in (and already leaking) and interior back together. I got the d300 up, sealed, and filled with fluid before I remembered I put the shifter on the transfer case first before I put it in. I got it all hooked up, it just took 3x as long.
I’ll keep the driveshafts out until I finish exhaust.
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