'82 Jeep Scrambler Daily Driver

Once I had the alignment set I installed a steering stabilizer and the same Rugged Ridge diff guard upfront.

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The last thing I did was to rotate and balance my tires.
The tire shop down the street from me put a ridiculous amount of weights on some of these wheels, and I noticed some weights were broken on others, so I picked up a balance bead "kit" to hopefully rid myself of the weights. The Counteract site recommends 6oz per wheel at my tire size so that's the kit I ordered.
If you're mounting tires to your wheels you can just throw the intact bag containing the balance beads inside the tire and they will break apart on your first drive, otherwise you have to fill through the valve stem, which is a slow and tedious process.

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orange150 said:
Up front, I was going to take it to my preferred shop up here to check my alignment and all that, but I figured for the price of an alignment I could buy a set of those alignment plates and just do it myself.
I picked up a set of BleepinJeep plates from amazon for $80(?). I had to set each plate at 20 degrees to clear the leaf springs in the front and the driveshaft on the back. I also used some bolts, washers, and nuts to secure each tape measure on the dead side of the plate.
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My baseline measurement showed me at 1/2" toed out, which was surprising. I fiddled with it until I got to the prescribed 1/16 toed in.. but now that I'm looking at it I wonder if I should have accounted for the 20 degree angle and gone for more 🤔
Click to expand...

One thing I've always wondered about those, they don't take into account the changes when the spindles/joints are loaded.

I see the slots in the bottom, maybe those are for Jack stands?
 
FINALLY heard back from the machine shop. It's taken him nearly three months to work through his backlog.
He is going to call next week once he's done taking final measurements of the block and heads to make sure it's workable, at which point he will buy all the parts for the short block and I will buy the flywheel and harmonic balancer so he can balance the rotating assembly. He is also going to install and degree the cam for me, so I will be ordering those parts as well.

Thankfully, the guy I'm buying the flywheel and balancer from is also selling me everything I need for all the front end accessories, something I didn't even think of when I bought the engine :dumbass:
 
A couple weeks back I started losing power steering at idle. I took the opportunity to install a PSC pump.
Install was straightforward except that I ended up needing a new pulley which added almost a week to the downtime and the studs that are on the PSC pump are too short so I had to swap over the studs from the back of the OE pump.
I also threw the mounting bracket in the sonic cleaner.

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I wish I could have been able to tell a big difference in driving it around, but I really couldn’t.
I might play with the adjuster on the box some to loosen up the steering.
 
Finally picked up the 360
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Major things left for me to do are order rockers, measure for push rods, figure out induction, and order/install all the front accessories.
Talked to him about fuel injection and he about convinced me to stick with a carb. He suggested 650 Edelbrock. My plan all along has been to run either a Sniper (now Sniper 2) or Edelbrock Pro Flo 4. Going carb first would obviously get this in the Jeep with much less headache and I could always drop a Sniper on the intake a chose vs. having to go all in on the PF4.

I’m also flat broke from this bill so nothing will be happening anytime soon 🙃
 
Still trying to consider which induction method to go with.

Carb is straight forward, no changes to fuel lines and just use a mechanical pump:
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Or the Pro Flo 4, plus another roughly $500 for fueling upgrades that need to happen: Larger supply and return fuel lines from In Line Tube plus a fuel pump and misc. fitting changes. $2,900ish:
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Or Holley Sniper 2 with Hyper Spark, plus another roughly $500 for fueling upgrades that need to happen: Larger supply and return fuel lines from In Line Tube plus a fuel pump and misc. fitting changes. $2,900ish:
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About a $700 difference to go with carb vs EFI plus a much easier swap... but the thought of EFI is alluring to me.
My biggest hang up between Holley and Edelbrock is the software. I trust Holley's more, but I like the PF4 system.

I have a lot to do (and a lot to save) before I'm even at the point of figuring this out, but it's fun to shop and ponder :)
 
I've got a Holley card on the 440 Mopar in my cj7 just to get it on the road/trail. Fine in the road, lousy off-road. I've got a couple quadrajet carbs I'll make ya deal on $25 each, and will have a freshly rebuild Holley for sale soon once I sniper 2 the fuel system
 
Alright, almost time to start ordering parts to put the engine together.

I'll need some help with finalizing the top end - the heads are assembled from the machine shop, and I have the roller lifters.
He said I can simply clean up the original head bolts and reuse those, is that advisable? I trust the guy, just surprised me. ARPs are $100ish.

Next step, measuring for push rods. Summit has some great videos on the procedure on both installing the roller lifters and checking for pushrod length.
Do I need to squirt break in oil on the cam lobes prior to dropping in the lifters?

Once I've determined the proper pushrod length I'll order them, install, and button up the heads and valve covers.

These are the rockers I'm planning on picking up
www.summitracing.com

Harland Sharp S4004 Harland Sharp Original Roller Rockers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Harland Sharp Original Roller Rockers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Rocker Arms at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

Anything in particular I need to keep in mind through this first process?
 
Haven’t updated this thread in a while, but engine is assembled and I started taking the jeep apart last weekend.
I did a finally start of the 258 (after I already removed the exhaust of course) before disconnecting everything.

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Didn’t have time to get much done this weekend, but still a small step forward.

Pulled the clutch off the 258 and mounted it on the 360.
When I was researching the swap I could never figure out if the 258 clutch kit would fit the 360 flywheel, or if I had to buy a 360 clutch. Was able to confirm my 258 clutch would fit.
I installed this clutch in 2015 when I swapped in the AX15 and it barely looks like I’ve used it.

Outside of that, just started draining fluids and getting the engine disconnected.

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The go to method to put an AMC V8 into a CJ is to use the passenger side frame mount from a 70s CJ with a 304.
Of course the mount I picked seems to not match my frame holes :confused:
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I asked @amcjeepman about it but he was just as confused. @AdamH have you ever run across this problem?
I picked these up from the late, great James Lupo so I’m assuming they’re correct.
For what it’s worth, my 258 mounts (below) went on and off just fine.
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