93 F-250 5.8L 5spd project bringing back to life!!

[John Fuller]

sold my 99f150 cause i got this on a trade for labor so here it is:
93 F-250 5.8L ZF5speed Trans 4x4 single cab dual tanks body and frame is amazing condition so i decided to take it, try and bring it back to life after 2yrs roughly sitting as it is. i'm nervous as no bolts were left, half the parts are missing, the bed is....somewhere lol, interior is gutted, sooooo yeah i'm pretty anxious taking on such a project that i have NO CLUE about but here i go....best part is how clean the cab and frame is for 95% of it so that's a huge plus. lots of pictures so here's how it came to me LOL...(i first thought HEEEELLLLP!!lol lol)

 

[John Fuller]

ok so far i got All New: heads, intake, water pump, thermostat, radiator, Clutch, slave cylinder/throw out bearing, starter, battery, front calipers and pads, Rear Tank Fuel Pump, Oil, Coolant, Paint (jet black), Harmonic Balancer, Rear Main Seal, Complete Engine Gasket Set, hoses, bolts (all bolts missing lol). Used: Transfer case on the way, door panels i hope to find soon, carpet/rug, so here's my "progress" so far....coming along i guess. The customer/now friend threw in these awesome rims with 33s 16.5x8.5 aluminum...they are gonna look nice when truck is done!!

 

[John Fuller]

if anyone drives a ford with this 5.8 and wouldn't care to post a picture or two of under hood schematics would be great as i'm overwhelmed with the amount of hoses, vacuum tees, lines, more lines, more hoses, solenoids for vacuum...bla bla bla too much emission crap and i'm lost already just looking at all this stuff lol..or any pointers also on anything you might want to point out too as i know nothing about these trucks and am pretty much learning as i go and figuring things out as i tear down/put together.
steering wheel has tons of play in it...i think there's a bearing in there that the shaft sits on that you can replace but after removing steering wheel, i can't figure out how to remove this little plastic star looking thingy to get behind it to the c-clip and spring....thanks for any and all help.

 

[49willys]

Your in over your head

 

[John Fuller]

Your in over your head

lmao..lol..i know you're probably right but never been too afraid for the most part in taking on other than jeep projects (to a degree of course) but i think i will be able to manage...so far it's going pretty good all things considering. motor is almost ready to go in once last few bolts show up, trans is ready, getting transfer case on thursday and hope to be ready to turn the key by Friday and see how the computer/ignition system has held up over last few years. it seems the vacuum/emission junk will be the hardest thing for me to get figured out lol as i've never seen so much emission junk on a car but everything else seems pretty straight forward....can't be as weird as this 78 F100 I restored for a customer back years ago...and he paid money for everything new and that was an interesting learning project working with such old stuff, lol.

 

[John Fuller]

hey anyone by chance have any of the downspouts for the gas tanks...i got a bed for it and doesn't have them...i have extra hoses i can use but i'm looking for those downspout metal thingys that bolt to the bed to hook up the rubber hoses to..any help would be great.
Got the np208 transfer case today so hope to get that and driveshafts in tomorrow and then hope to turn the key comes Monday or Tuesday...will post pictures of finished product here soon when all complete...looking pretty good so far!!

 

[krehel24]

I would just use a piece of bamboo and a funel if I were you!...par for the course! !!!!

 

[John Fuller]

I would just use a piece of bamboo and a funel if I were you!...par for the course! !!!!

hehe..actually the guy called me today and he found em which i'm only using the front tank anyways for now, the rear tank has holes (found this out today when i went to put new pump in it and mounted it up, poured fuel and leaks in a bunch of spots underneath...it's weird though cause it's leaking from under this thick rubberized coating that's all over the bottom which is why i thought it was good). i returned the pump and got new one for the front tank cause it held 1/2full of water for last several years no problem and it cleaned up pretty good...almost seems like the water kept it from rusting, idk but it cleaned up well and gonna install tomorrow. i got busy day with jobs tomorrow otherwise i would've been ready to do a quick fire up but doubt since 2 jeep and a 4runner just got dropped off. it's getting there though. i'm about frustrated as i can be with the thing right now but i know I'm gonna love it once its all done and will make an awesome tow rig with new motor and all the other new stuff....

 

[John Fuller]

Your in over your head

i'm almost agreeing with you right now.. mostly cause of the meth head who took it apart years ago and lost all the bolts, stole what was worth money and left me now with tracking down every stinkin bolt and hose and sensor and whatever else i'm missing lol. gonna be interesting seeing how it runs without all the emission crap since i don't have any of it...from the pictures online, i'm missing so many vacuum solenoids for egr, air pump junk and all the crazy solenoids that go with that....so for now i just got a belt that bypasses the a/c and the air pump and no clutch fan either so i guess full electric from GC v8 since i have one..whew so frustrated with hunting down stuff i've almost given up lol but it's close to the end now..few more days, by Friday this week should be running unless i get swamped with work!

 

[orange150]

Will the 208 fit? I thought most Fords were BW1356

 

[rockcity]

I know I've seen plenty of those trucks at a u pull it junk yard. Go look and take many, many pictures and notes. Those vacuum hoses looked like a PITA. I sold the one I had. Way too many hoses to deal with

 

[John Fuller]

Will the 208 fit? I thought most Fords were BW1356

yeah it fit right up...rear drifeshaft worked good, the front one i have to shorten for it to fit. had to lengthen the lever for the shifter to work but now works really good..just gotta finish driveshaft and drivetrain is done

 

[drkelly]

Will the 208 fit? I thought most Fords were BW1356

The NP208 was used from 1980 to maybe mid-late 80's in Ford F series trucks and also in the full size Bronco.

 

[orange150]

The NP208 was used from 1980 to maybe mid-late 80's in Ford F series trucks and also in the full size Bronco.

Wow, I used to know all that Ford info. How quickly one forgets...

 

[XJsavage]

X2, go check at a local junkyard for ideas. Pay $1-2 and take notes. Also I'd say that truck is screaming for a wooden flatbed.

 

[John Fuller]

X2, go check at a local junkyard for ideas. Pay $1-2 and take notes. Also I'd say that truck is screaming for a wooden flatbed.

if the guy didn't have the bed for it, i would've built one but he had one and i went and got it and it's pretty rust free mostly so i will use that.

 

[John Fuller]

IT RUNS>>>IT"S ALIVE...IT"S ALIVE...4yrs of sitting and IT"S ALIVE...i gotta get O2 sensor tomorrow, clutch fan and coolant but holy cow it runs and DAAAAMMMM does it sound good...you wouldn't think it was a truck lol, sounds like my 85 Iroc Z28 did...it's gonna be sweet truck i can tell already.
anyone know that little plug you remove to adjust timing...is that an actual fused plug or does it just complete the circuit for the ECU..mine is missing and i jumpered the connector for now so i could see how it runs before adjusting timing but that connector/plug thingy is missing so will it hurt anything to just use jumper wire for now to reconnect that timing plug once i'm done adjusting it...thank you. now onto brake work and front driveshaft tomorrow, then test drive and set the bed on it and she will be done..will get pictures up when it's complete.

 

[John Fuller]

hey also, any advise on how t adjust the clutch would be great...i bled the new slave cylinder just like i would brakes but the pedal just doesn't quite feel right?? or I'm just not familiar enough with a big truck clutch like this and maybe it's normal, idk...the clutch pedal has total about 8-9" travel...the first 2-3" of push on it it's free/slack then the last 6-8" to the floor it's firm and clutch feels like it's disengaging all the way...
would i know if it was disengaging all the way or not..does this pedal sound normal for this zf5 trans with new clutch and hardware? thank u

 

[Mac5005]

If you are idling in N, push clutch in, shift into gear.

If it shifts easily, and the truck doesn't try to move a little bit, then it's disengaging all the way.

Should have some free play when pressing clutch before it starts disengaging.

Also should have some slight pedal travel off floor when releasing, before clutch starts engaging as well.

Bleeding is just like brakes,
Depress pedal
Open bleeder screw, finish pushing pedal to floor, hold pedal down
Close bleeder screw
Release pedal

Check to make sure clutch MC fluid level doesn't drop too far, and repeat until you get good pedal.

Also sometimes tap on MC with something small to get trapped air bubbles to free up and rise to surface.

Pumping only breaks the air bubbles into smaller ones making them harder to remove.

 

[John Fuller]

@Mac5005 thank you very much..i will test these out today. i didn't know about pumping it so i will have the wife just push and hold once like you said..maybe that was the issue otherwise sounds like my pedal is "pretty close"

 

[Jody Treadway]

IT RUNS>>>IT"S ALIVE...IT"S ALIVE...4yrs of sitting and IT"S ALIVE...i gotta get O2 sensor tomorrow, clutch fan and coolant but holy cow it runs and DAAAAMMMM does it sound good...you wouldn't think it was a truck lol, sounds like my 85 Iroc Z28 did...it's gonna be sweet truck i can tell already.
anyone know that little plug you remove to adjust timing...is that an actual fused plug or does it just complete the circuit for the ECU..mine is missing and i jumpered the connector for now so i could see how it runs before adjusting timing but that connector/plug thingy is missing so will it hurt anything to just use jumper wire for now to reconnect that timing plug once i'm done adjusting it...thank you. now onto brake work and front driveshaft tomorrow, then test drive and set the bed on it and she will be done..will get pictures up when it's complete.

The SPOUT connector is just an inline connector that completes the circuit. You can make your own jumper wire if need be. 10* will be stock timing and most people find that 1-2* of advance will help out a little.
It should idle very smooth and have little to no rumble (like your Iroc apparently did). If it does, something isn't right. Just an FYI.

 

[John Fuller]

thanks @Jody Treadway , since we're talking timing, do i jumper the timing connector first and bring up to operating temp with however it runs...then shut off and unplug jumper wire then crank back up and adjust to 10 or so, then shut off>reconnect timing connector and crank back up and done. right now it won't start anymore...WTF LOL, i think it's out of gas i only put like 3.5gallons in that big 30gallon tank and it must have used it all up cause all of sudden today it won't run after i warmed it up with coolant and the accesories back on, i went to crank to adjust timing and nothing...it acts like it wants to but won't so i think i'm out of gas, will know in the morning when i get gas.
i got the new front calipers on today, pads, brake lines to both fronts, brake line to the rear, belt/clutch fan/accesories mounted, and new O2 sensor mounted with new weld on plug. gotta replace rear brake lines and wheel cylinders and whatever drum hardware...i'm not looking forward to rear drum brakes as i got drum off on one side and doesn't look familiar at all, LOL...never done these kind of brakes before.

Pumping only breaks the air bubbles into smaller ones making them harder to remove.

i bled the clutch like you told me today with the wife pushing pedal and after 3 more sets, clutch seems to be little stiffer now and engages from about 2/2.5"down so thank you for that help.
Now on to the BIG question: How the heck to i take out the front axle shafts to replace the outer and middle u-joints for passenger side axle shaft...those joints are like gone beyond belief and i have a feeling i'm gonna be told their C-Clip and have to dissasemble the whole front diff to remove them but i hope i'm wrong

 

[Bhudgins]

On the timing just run it to temp leave it running then put the jumper in and set your base timing

 

[Jody Treadway]

Spout connector in until engine is warm. Then remove the connector and set base timing to 10*.

To remove the shafts you have to remove the rotors and spindles. Haven't you taken apart something other than a unit bearing Dana 30?

 

[John Fuller]

To remove the shafts you have to remove the rotors and spindles. Haven't you taken apart something other than a unit bearing Dana 30?

honestly...no lol. i know it's sounds silly and hard to believe but i've not been outside of the "jeep realm" very much at all so these axles especially are all new to me...so are you saying they are not C-clip and don't have to remove the "pumpkin"...just remove hubs and they slide out like the D30 shafts do? no having to mess with the pumpkin housing for c clips?