93 F-250 5.8L 5spd project bringing back to life!!

[Jody Treadway]

Remove caliper, rotor, spindle and caliper bracket. You'll see a hole that is larger than the axle shaft. Pull the shaft out and install some of those "HD greaseable" ujoints we hear so much about.

 

[drkelly]

The Ford Bronco i had with the similar TTB front suspension but with D44 did have a C-clip on the mid shaft. I had to take the whole cast unit off the big TTB arm to get that shaft out. I put a Lock Right locker in the front, and the C-clip wont fit back in there with the Lock Right, so it just ran without it and i never had any trouble with it.

 

[John Fuller]

Pull the shaft out and install some of those "HD greaseable" ujoints we hear so much about.

ha ha ha..thanks man, i really do appreciate it. ur gonna really really slap me now cause i actaully bought one when i dropped 1500 in parts and totally didn't even think to look in the book for how to do it...shows how much of air head i can be LOL. (i feel stupid)

 

[John Fuller]

The Ford Bronco i had with the similar TTB front suspension but with D44 did have a C-clip on the mid shaft. I had to take the whole cast unit off the big TTB arm to get that shaft out. I put a Lock Right locker in the front, and the C-clip wont fit back in there with the Lock Right, so it just ran without it and i never had any trouble with it.

this is what i remember doing on my ford ranger D35 front TTB now that i think about it but according to Jody, the D50 is non C-clip...i will have to look in my chiltons tomorrow and hope he's right cause i hated pulling that D35 ttb out now that i think about it and this D50 is way bigger and heavier so i hope not but if i do have to...i guess it's gonna get a "lincoln Locker" before i put it back together since it has lockout hubs.

 

[Jody Treadway]

The Ford Bronco i had with the similar TTB front suspension but with D44 did have a C-clip on the mid shaft. I had to take the whole cast unit off the big TTB arm to get that shaft out. I put a Lock Right locker in the front, and the C-clip wont fit back in there with the Lock Right, so it just ran without it and i never had any trouble with it.

True.
I'm assuming he is only trying to access the outers to replace those joints.

 

[John Fuller]

True.
I'm assuming he is only trying to access the outers to replace those joints.

unfortunately i have to replace both outers and the passenger long shaft inner joint too so looks like i'm gonna be taking the dam thing apart...ohh boy that will wait for later before winter sets in when 4wd will be needed!

 

[fordwheelinman]

Google search for "ttb c-clip eliminator" before you put it back together

 

[John Fuller]

Google search for "ttb c-clip eliminator" before you put it back together

i did that on my ford ranger D35 ttb and will do it on this one if i go that route but from the last hour of searching ford forums, everyone says it can be done on the truck with ball joint press and passenger side stuff removed so i think i will try this first...i'm not very fond at all of removing that heavy pumpkin period so i will try m darndest to do it on the truck lol...angel grinder/cut off wheel at the right angles i've read can cut it in half then it's a whole lot easier to remove and new one of course goes right in but i got time before snow comes around for needing 4wd...gotta finish this darn thing first and get it driving and ready for October run

 

[John Fuller]

update: Truck is Running and Driving (for now while i wait to redo rear brakes and few other things). runs great after i found out this morning it was missing the MAP Sensor LOL LOL..just didn't realize it had one and after little while hunting around, saw on the Catalyst that it has a Map Sensor and as soon as i put new one on, wow, fired right up and runs like champ.
funniest thing happened though: i put about 4 gallons in night before and ran about half hour testing then runs out...this morning put 7 more gallons of gas in front tank and ran out after about 30min of running/idling/testing and just kinda thought wow, this thing eats some gas but not really giving it much thought. then later i was cleaning the shop after this 2week project ruining it..so i thought to check the rear tank for some weird reason and what do you know...i laughed so hard when it was 3/4way full...LOLLOLLOL this whole time the return line for some reason was feeding the rear tank instead of the front tank even though the front one has the new pump and all and the rear tank nothing...plugged up the return line at the rear pump and solved that issue but it gave me a good laugh for while there thinking i had some horrible gas monster lol. (pretty silly, i know!)
Test drove truck down the road and back and pretty impressed with the power from 0-60 for being a truck on 33s...lots of power that 5.8 is putting out (which i guess it should since all new from heads up and nice free flowing exhaust). air pump sounds horrible so I'm gonna try and route a belt that deletes the air pump and a/c compressor. hope to get the bed on it tomorrow if I can get enough guys over to lift and set it in place. almost there................

 

[John Fuller]

someone please help me out...no matter how i adjust the clutch and have tried so many times...id doens't disengage the throw out bearing when idling. drives ok and shifts smooth but the throw out bearing makes a racket when idling and you let off the clutch?? I'm fed up with it after 3hours of bleeding and crap...what am i missing. I'm not at all familiar with these things. do i need new master cylinder for the clutch???? thank you very much

 

[orange150]

You sure you got the throwout bearing installed on the fork correctly?

I thought they sold those pre-bled master/slave units for that truck... I'm pretty sure I've bought one for my old '97 PSD...

 

[John Fuller]

???i bought new clutch and throw out bearing which looks like this so there's no way to install it wrong...

and I have bled the master for the clutch SOOOOOO many times but the pedal still never felt right but it shifts good, goes in and out of gear good but when idling today, i got up under it with light and looking through the inspection plate on bottom of trans housing and it's not like moving but i can see the throw out bearing with truck idling laying on the clutch forks which is causing this aweful rattle/knocking type noise...and all along i knew the pedal didn't feel right even though i don't know how this truck clutch pedal should feel, i know enough to think it's not right and apparently i'm right cause of this noise.

 

[orange150]

Ohhhh. I didn't know that year was internal slave.

 

[John Fuller]

Ohhhh. I didn't know that year was internal slave.

yeah and to make it worse...a friend just told me i have to take out the trans, slide it back 8-9" or so, take slave cylinder and turn it completely up and let it gravity bleed otherwise there's a place in there that air gets trapped and will never get a proper clutch pedal and such....WTF WTF so i'm about to search this internet all night if i have to until i find someone whose done the trick without doing this cause pulling tranny back out is out of the question since that dam thing is so heavy and pain in my a** to set in....took me forever to set it in the first time and there's gotta be a way to bleed this thing out without removing the trans. dam ford designers.

 

[digginout]

Get a vacuum bleeder. Def sounds like to me you have air in the lines. Did the master leak all of it fluid out when you where working on it? Is the master new? Has the master itself been bench bled?

 

[John Fuller]

Get a vacuum bleeder. Def sounds like to me you have air in the lines. Did the master leak all of it fluid out when you where working on it? Is the master new? Has the master itself been bench bled?

when i got the truck it was torn apart but the master had full fluid (I don't know how it didn't leak out with the slave not hooked up)...so i've reinstalled new clutch, internal slave (stock), and bled it the way someone mentioned but still not good enough pedal which now i know since it's making noise. the master never went dry.
probably stupid question but how do i use vacuum bleeder for it? forgive my lack of knowledge on outside jeep realm!

 

[digginout]

Your slave has a bleeder screw right? I see so many i cant remember vehicle to vehicle. Tell me your bleeding process.

 

[John Fuller]

Your slave has a bleeder screw right? I see so many i cant remember vehicle to vehicle. Tell me your bleeding process.

yes it has bleeder screw. first i did the pump and bleed like brakes...didn't work too well so i did what someon earlier in this thread told me...pump one time, hold, open bleeder, close bleeder, release clutch....repeat till no more air and straight fluid comes out. I did this and got a pedal but never strong enough pedal and have tried bleeding again and same results. I also just let it gravity bleed about 1/4 of small bottle of brake fluid and nothing, same pedal. I guess the only think i haven't done is sit there and pump the hell out of it 40/50 times like some have said...i'm going crazy with this thing lol. this little crap gets to me more than anything. thank you very much for your help

 

[digginout]

No problem. So the vac bleeders pull fluid from the master by vacuum via an open bleeder screw. Sucks air out of trapped areas while its at it. The cheapo kits have a crappy assortment of adapters. Youll just have to be creative if you that route. Just make sure it seals. Guessing from across the state and youve done what you should sounds like youve got a bad master. Pull yours off and bench bleed it. Watch how much fluid is pushed, see if its leaking fluid out the back. See if you can stop fluid flow with your finger while engaging the piston. Use common sense if something doesnt seem right its probaly not.

 

[John Fuller]

thanks @digginout , i will probably replace the master i guess anyways since it's the only part of the clutch system thats original...even though it honestly looks fairly new (offly clean to be 160K miles old lol) i think in the morning i'm gonna try to just pump the hell out of it for a while since i can't drive it yet...many ford forums i've found people to just pump the crap out of it and then drive it to get that last bit of air trapped out of it but since i can't drive it (bad steering column bearing that is sketchy as hell to drive), im gonna try pumping short pumps about 40times or so and see if that works. i just know this thing is so close to being done and just driving me crazy...this clutch issue and the stupid freaking serpentine belt has me off the walls right now also...i almost threw my ratchet threw the windshield for the dam belt pissed me off so bad...then i quit for the day.
(i took off air pump and running shorter belt but no matter what belt i use (and i found a shorter belt that fits good and snug) it wants to work it's way off eventually. it hasn't yet cause i ain't run it long enough for it to but 15min of running motor and the belt wants to work off the crank pulley...what the hell?? i'm so mad with these 2 issues i could've lit a match today lol...i know i got temper issues)

 

[Jody Treadway]

Push clutch down, let your foot slide off the pedal quickly so that the pedal releases rapidly. This will help air bubbles dislodge.
I've bled numerous Fords this way with success. It may take 40-50 cycles to bleed it completely

 

[John Fuller]

Push clutch down, let your foot slide off the pedal quickly so that the pedal releases rapidly. This will help air bubbles dislodge.
I've bled numerous Fords this was with success. It may take 40-50 cycles to bleed it completely

thank you sir. i never thought of this and makes sense and right now i'm open to any advise to try out in the morning. (any advise on the other stupid issue with my "belt" wanting to slip off the pulleys...i ran ruler across pulleys and they seem to be withing reason of each other??) thank u

 

[Blaze]

Mity-Vac is your friend. I use it to bleed the clutch in my T56 in my TA. Stick it into the reservoir with the little nose on the tube, make it pull a vacuum on the slave, then pull it off and it will draw the air out. Works like a champ, I don't even have to crawl under the car any more.

 

[John Fuller]

Push clutch down, let your foot slide off the pedal quickly so that the pedal releases rapidly. This will help air bubbles dislodge.
I've bled numerous Fords this way with success. It may take 40-50 cycles to bleed it completely

alright...this seemed to have worked for 90% of it...noise is gone pretty much and clutch pedal feels WAY better...now only 1" or so of freeplay from the top rather than almost 3", i guess as i start to drive it too from what i hear it will get that last 5% but thank you as you saved me a huge headache this morning and was able to accomplish a good pedal and clacking noise gone within 15minutes.

 

[John Fuller]

well so here's the truck for the most part its done...drove around the block several times tested out 4x4....pretty powerful truck for being gas motor for me anyways...way more power than the 99ford 150 i sold. it pulls through the gears really good, shifts smooth, and sounds descent (I think someone who knows timing better than me would be able to set the timing better...to me in gear pulls good but just revving it up doesn't sound right as far as power band???maybe I'm too long into it and just imagining things lol). so here's the pretty much finished product...not the best but it works for me. the bed i got was in rough shape as you can see the dents but can't beat "free"