95 Toyota Pickup 1 ton !!! NEWEST SWAP

I'd get MarsFab to build you a double sheer drop arm. Of course you would have to supply a bigger drop arm but I don't think you would have any issues with this setup.
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as for the passenger side high steer arm it would hurt to have something similar done to it.
 
The only problem I see with having marsfab build something for your truck is nobody will notice the truck around the metal porn he makes for it.
 
(Simpler version) marsfab turns out top notch work. The stuff he builds is like looking at porn(but metal)
 
Oh I gotcha man, my bad. Does anyone on here work for them so I may contact them and inform them on what I need. What would you do if you were me YotaOnRocks?
 
He's on here as mars fab and on Facebook as well under mars fab


To elaborate on what xjsalvage was explaining about the steering. Your heims look to be at the steepest angle possible with the miss alignment spacers, if you have travel down. The top(steering box side) is going to pull down and away from the frame when the miss alignment spacer can't go any farther. And vise versa on the other end.
 
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X2 on what others are saying. I would get a custom drop pitman arm with double shear and a raised steering arm with the same to get the draglink as flat as possible. I also don't like the look of the steering arm blocks; so I would try to tie my high steer arm/block back down into the factory steering arm. Those blocks put a lot of stress on the 4 studs, and a hard hit could bend/break them quickly.

While there are some nice full hydro systems that would work fine on the street (KOH cars run 100+ mph) and NC legality is a matter of opinion, I wouldn't want to run full hydro on a DD. I might consider putting a Sweet Valve in the steering shaft to run a ram on the axle though. Anything to lessen the load on the top of those knuckles.

Did you ever figure out your front driveshaft?
 
Full hydro isnt bad. You just have to steer it every where. As is if you turn all the way right into a parking lots its not gonna go back straight like a normal car will
 
toyota1 said:
Full hydro isnt bad. You just have to steer it every where. As is if you turn all the way right into a parking lots its not gonna go back straight like a normal car will
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I've read that a certain company has figured out a way add a return to center feature into their systems. PSC if I had to guess. I'm on the verge of trying it.
 
I hit a speed bump in Walmart parking lot yesterday hard enough to throw my pistol up from my seat and hit the ceiling along with my head. I checked the knuckle studs and the block itself when I got home. Seems to still be tight. They put locktite and some other compound on the threads and blocks so it's hard to tell if the studs are loose or not. The steering does tend to go crazy when I flex the flex the front end, like the steering wheel flies around 1-2 full rotations and just doesn't feel tight until I'm on level and straight ground. Also as for the driveshaft, I'm going to run a 2wd tranny with a divorced np205 behind it.
 
Also, should I be extremely cautious of where I drive and how I drive? I did this swap hoping it would be bullet proof for a dd but seems like there's always going to be a flawl.
 
unless its something new in the past couple years i have a return to center psc orbital and you still have to do some steering. Its not bad really unless you normally just let go of the wheel after you make a turn
 
XJsavage said:
I've read that a certain company has figured out a way add a return to center feature into their systems. PSC if I had to guess. I'm on the verge of trying it.
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The steering wheel moving is bump steer because the drag link isn't anywhere close to parallel with the tie rod. As the axle moves upwards, it pushes the drag link to the driver's side. See if he can build you a drag link like this one with two bends to make up the vertical distance. That's seriously all you need. Ditch the steering block and get rid of the spacer on the pitman arm end. It should be easily done and very simple. I don't see the need to jump straight to full hydro. That'd be like amputating your arm for a smashed finger and replacing it with a bionic prosthetic.
 

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1.5" DOM .219 wall or something similar should be plenty strong as long as the angles are less than 45 degrees.
 
Unfortunately using a z-bar type link like that for the steering will not help with the bump steer. It will help to keep the Heims from maxing out from misalignment, in turn relieving some of the stress on the joints, steering box and arms when the axle droops down. However the effective angle of that link even with the z in it, is the same as a straight line drawn through the two mounting points. Being such a steep angle, as the axle droops or compresses the drag link will still push and pull on the steering box.
A longer drop pitman arm will help with all of the above because it will reduce the angle of the drag link by bringing one of the link mounting points closer to horizontal. The closer to horizontal the drag link is, the less bump steer you will have. The trade off here is that it puts even more stress on the steering box, pitman arm and frame mounting.
You are running some pretty steep angles. My suggestion would be to build a stout drop pitman arm, a stout steering arm and reinforce it to the knuckle to get the drag link as close to horizontal as possible (doesn't have to be perfect but definitely better than what is there currently). Also run hydro assist ram on the axle. Those tires and steering angles are putting A LOT of extra stress on all the steering components, joints, knuckles, steering box, steering box bearings and frame mounting. The hydro assist would greatly reduce that extra stress.

Just my .02
 
HUGE changes coming very soon! Parts and tires come in this week, hope to have it all swapped out and done by first week of September.
 
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