97 LJ-ish build

Maybe notch the frame where the drag link hits, it should get you some more clearance and that part of the frame isn't nearly as critical.
 
I was thinking about notching the frame there as an option since it's only really supporting the radiator/grill.

Flipping the DL to under the steering arm actually helped me enough I think but notching is still on the table.


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Finally setting the hoop height. made some improv shocks at the height I need to set them.

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I have some questions:

I swapped the drag link to under the pitman arm.

Pros
1: I don't need to clearance the notches on the steering box to make room for the TRE
2: a lot less angle on the TRE. Above the pitman arm the joint was pretty stressed
3: don't need to notch the frame for the drag link

Cons: The track bar and pitman arm are now at slightly different angles. Before they were dead nuts parallel which from what I understand the ideal situation.

Ride height

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So are the angles they are at good or do I need to get the DL more parallel with the TB like it was before I swapped it underneath the pitman arm?



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It looks good but the difference in length of the track bar and drag link can somewhat define the amount of difference in the angles if that makes sense. The rule of thumb is to have them dead nuts parallel. I have had some that just didn’t line up but the difference was no more than about 1” at the top by the pitman and TB bracket on the frame.
 
skyhighZJ said:
It looks good but the difference in length of the track bar and drag link can somewhat define the amount of difference in the angles if that makes sense. The rule of thumb is to have them dead nuts parallel. I have had some that just didn’t line up but the difference was no more than about 1” at the top by the pitman and TB bracket on the frame.
Click to expand...

Dude! Thanks for the feedback.

As of now the track bar and drag link are almost exactly the same length. They WERE at the same angle. Now the track bar sits about 1-1/4 above the pitman arm joint.

They are parallel at full passenger side droop and angle gets worse at full driver side droop.


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From my “experience” I’d say ride height is more important as it will be where your bump steer and wandering / darting will come in to play while driving. I’ll take better road manners any day of the week over loosing a little off road ability.
 
My buck-0-five...think about it mathematically. Do a little trig (or eye-fawk it, probably close enough considering the minor difference in height) and see what the "effective length difference" is off of parallel for your track bar...i.e. how much "shorter" horizontally is the track bar sitting at it's current angle than if it were perfectly parallel with your drag link? This is effectively how much side-to-side movement you've got with your axle, and ultimately how much bump steer you'll have. IMHO, you're fine where it's at. I highly doubt it'll be anything you'll notice.

Good looking work!
 
skyhighZJ said:
From my “experience” I’d say ride height is more important as it will be where your bump steer and wandering / darting will come in to play while driving. I’ll take better road manners any day of the week over loosing a little off road ability.
Click to expand...

Yep -- this.
 
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This was about 1/2 way theough building the last XJ I had and you will notice the track bar is significantly shorter than the drag link. Angles were good but it would cruise 70 down the highway and wasn’t horrible. I added hydro assist after this photo but you get the idea. I think yours will be fine.if not try to see if you can fidgea little out of one orthe other. Maybe incorporating a slight bend in the track bar to make things happy. Of course notching the frame is always an option that I didn’t have without having a “frame” to notch lol
 
Okay sweet. Seems like the consensus is it looks within the norm. When I push the steering box forward a little bit I'll have more room to put things where I want but I'm trying to get the thing under its own weight and moving so I can make some wheeling trips. If I MF every little thing then I'll never finish it.


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I’m back it. Need some input.

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I was going to put on new body mounts but realized the bushing is kind of useless now that the body and frame are connected through the cage. Can I do away with the 2 middle body mounts and just run one more kickout to the body/cage right in the middle? would that be strong enough?

I plan to gusset the tubes at the frame to reinforce as well. Basically I’d be getting rid of two body mounts and have 3 frame/body/cage mounts instead.

Thoughts?




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The new frame tie in would look like this in the red. Yellow is existing:

0fa75ded8684dc02132b1e619ebf1b41.jpg



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usmc42 said:
The new frame tie in would look like this in the red. Yellow is existing:

0fa75ded8684dc02132b1e619ebf1b41.jpg



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Click to expand...
Is the floor drilled and tube going through, or using sandwich plates on the floor?
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Is the floor drilled and tube going through, or using sandwich plates on the floor?
Click to expand...

Sandwich plates for all the existing tie ins. The new spot will just be drilled through since it’s not a flat spot (next to the seat)


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I think I’m just going to put in the new body mounts instead of another cage to frame tube.




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Well this is annoying. The MC off of a 2003 HD Dodge Ram has some weird ass sizes. So now I have to find an M10 and M12 fittings and adapt them to 3/8 fittings on the prop valve. Ghey.


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Seems like it though doesn’t it lol. Either way I feel your pain in the ass cause I had to make “adapter” lines when I swapped my MC in my XJ. It sucks cause I hate making flares even with a really good tool but the added braking in the end makes it so worth it!
 
In case anyone wants to swap in a Dodge HD master cylinder from and earlier Dodge (maybe newer too) that has metric fittings, these little guys adapt it from metric bubble flare to 3/8 inverted. $3 each at advanced auto parts.

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Has anyone ran the passenger front brake line up the firewall instead of around the front of the frame on a YJ/TJ? Seems like it would be a better place for it.


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