97 ZJ on Superduty axles, 39.5, 4 link, normal fuller stuff

Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by marty79, Feb 27, 2019.

  1. C.Berry

    C.Berry Bad News

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    When ya lose motivation take a step back deal with ya shit and come back to it, now you have more work to do to fix it! which sucks but atleast you can admit you half assed it so now the hard part is to waste time fixing it... I’d suggest a oxy torch for convenience lol
     
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  2. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    I got plasma cutter so it won't actually take too long. Yeah I shoulda quit on it then
     
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  3. Jody Treadway

    Jody Treadway Croc wearing fool Moderator

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    Just leave room for uptravel.
    Those pesky oil pans can get in the way of the front axle
     
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  4. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    Yeah I know. I've looked a lot into a 4 link front but just not possible because of it. Sucks
     
  5. Loganwayne

    Loganwayne #BTL

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    That’s why 99.9 % of people three link the front of zj and xjs


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  6. C.Berry

    C.Berry Bad News

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    Plasma cutters scare me around axle tubes or anything that can be damages past a piece of steel lol I’m really partial to a oxy tho bc I feel more comfortable with detail work, I only use plasma for cutting long straight lines... haha
     
  7. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    I straight up suck using a torch but plasma cutter I've gotten good with it so no worries there.
    I know but I so wish I could though
     
  8. BigClay

    BigClay Well-Known Member

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    Yep, or at least radius arms
     
  9. Jody Treadway

    Jody Treadway Croc wearing fool Moderator

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    You can triangular 4 link it. There's plenty of room. Are you willing to go full hydro?
     
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  10. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    Really? And yeah I think I could go full hydro...what's a reasonable setup for that, used obviously, I knew new it's way out of my league
     
  11. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    That's my "current" plan for front..unless Jody shows me a way to triangulate the front within my limits lol (and budget)
     
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  12. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    Remember I'm only doing 3.5" lift so that makes less room. I want this buggy as Low center of gravity as the other one!
     
  13. Chris_Keziah

    Chris_Keziah Joe Dirt

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    It's possible but the uppers get fairly short and they have to mount off the outside of the "framerail"
     
  14. Jody Treadway

    Jody Treadway Croc wearing fool Moderator

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    Yes you can. You only HAVE to triangulate either the uppers OR lowers. Does that help?

    Good full hydro kit new will be around $1500. Or piece it together if you understand the science of hydraulics...
     
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  15. skyhighZJ

    skyhighZJ Thanks for your taxes

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    Just run a 3 link front. Upper link coming down the drivers side above the diff. Boom. Done. A very simple trans crossmember can double as your LCA and UCA mounting point. Did it in my XJ it worked out very well with very good Range of Motion (flex) and no interference. @BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC. built my crossmember and it was pure gold.
     
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  16. skyhighZJ

    skyhighZJ Thanks for your taxes

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  17. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    I figured that much, but on low lift applications I've read oil pan still becomes an issue.
    Yeah I get that. I've read a lot on it but on such small lift, I'd have to bump stop a lot which doesn't that defeat "some" of the flexability purpose...
    I did that on the other buggy but I don't like it. I hate track bars to be honest. me and Track bars just don't get along HAHA. Nah, I just never hardly have good luck building them properly even for a "crawler". Street rig I do just fine but for the buggy on my last XJ, it worked but I struggle a lot to get it close to right. I do well on some things building but others like trackbar I struggle like crazy lol, (struggle is real)
     
  18. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    As of right now I left the mounts off the front truss because I'm gonna wait till I tear down the jeep and mock up front axle with lower links in and see what kind of "clearance" I really have and go from there. I fell in love with the 4 link on my last buggy that I'm determined to do it in the front even if it means cutting into the unibody rails and making custom boxes out there on the corners if it looks like everything will clear.

    So my next question: might be stupid so bare with me: Can someone please explain to me this "pvc mock up links" that I've heard some people mention on here. I thought it was a joke then I realized it's not. So what exactly do yall mean by do PVC links for mockup to cycle suspension and adjust for perfect fit before making the real ones.
     
  19. Jody Treadway

    Jody Treadway Croc wearing fool Moderator

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    Wanna know the difference (to a point) between a well functioning 3 link and a 4 link?

    Where that 4th link is mounted.

    Building a link suspension with a track bar that still flexes well and has no ill handling effects due to the track bar is quite easy really.

    Much like boning, it's all about angles and proper length.
     
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  20. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    oh I just realized you said outside.....ooohhhhh that makes more sense now. On the outside of unibody rails would actually bring them away from everything that much more so I can actually begin to envision this. thanks for pointing this out, didn't think about going on the "outside"
    I'm sure it is but as stated, I just plain suck building a track bar and I hate doing the 3 link mount with such tight spaces. Plus, I've done many 3 links and track bar setups and they worked for years now but I'm wanting to expand my ability and do front and rear triangulated setup and get em pretty descent.

    Btw, why do you have to go full Hydro in order to have 4 link front? I've seen this statement a lot but never understood why..
     
  21. Jody Treadway

    Jody Treadway Croc wearing fool Moderator

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    You mock the links with PVC so you can visualize them on the vehicle. Then you can cycle the suspension and check for interference.
    PVC is like $0.50 LF vs $10 LF for DOM

    Have you considered triangular lowers and straight uppers?
    Or building a subframe so you can get the angles mo betta?
     
  22. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    hey hey hey now keep it pg please
     
  23. marty79

    marty79 Well-Known Member Banned Twice Already

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    ok cool so it's true. I guess I'll have to look in that section for fittings on how to get it reduced down to fit inside link mounts. thanks you
    too late now, my lower links are on the axle and thy're 3/8 plate boxed in. Ain't cutting those off
    Building a subframe? eh, LCOG build not sure that's an option (for me anyways). The XJ on this size lift and tire was dragging on a lot of stuff already and a subframe would be even worse. I've thought it but not an option for me personally..plus then would turn into just way more work than I'm already in for lol
     
  24. Jody Treadway

    Jody Treadway Croc wearing fool Moderator

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    Buggies drag their subframes a lot. But their suspension works well

    It's a trade off to achieve a balanced rig
     
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  25. Loganwayne

    Loganwayne #BTL

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    Clyde, North Carolina
    You do realize the sub frame could be 2” lower than the frame and achieve what you need. You just need two tubes running across the frame to mount link mounts to. Once it’s all done make a removable plate from one to the next and you have a full belly skid


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