97 ZJ on Superduty axles, 39.5, 4 link, normal fuller stuff

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This was when I had just got things setup. I was a long way from finished but may give you an idea.
 
marty79 said:
Btw, why do you have to go full Hydro in order to have 4 link front? I've seen this statement a lot but never understood why..
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A non triangulated 4 link front with a trackbar (think stock zj,xj suspension) Can use a regular steering box with drag link because the axle and steering will move in the same arc as the suspension droops or compresses. With a stock steering system and a triangulated suspension now the steering still wants to move in that arc but the axle wants to move up and down centered under the rig so you will end up with massive bumpsteer.

That's why you HAVE to go full hydro with a triangulated front suspension.
 
As far as pvc link, you cut several relief cuts in the ends of the pvc, the size pvc that fits your weld in tube adapters, and tighten hose clamps around them to hold them in.

2” drop subframe, cover it with a plastic skid so it’s quiet when it his stuff and done.

Uhmw is self lubricating when sliding over rocks.

You only need 40 degrees total triangulation. That could be each link at 10 degrees.

Or conventional 4 link with a track bar.

Track bars are easy.

Make it same length and angle as drag link....

Are you putting any of the links into software to calculate the geometry.

Spending the time to custom link it, it’s worthwhile to crunch the numbers. Otherwise just use a bolt on kit...
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
A non triangulated 4 link front with a trackbar (think stock zj,xj suspension) Can use a regular steering box with drag link because the axle and steering will move in the same arc as the suspension droops or compresses. With a stock steering system and a triangulated suspension now the steering still wants to move in that arc but the axle wants to move up and down centered under the rig so you will end up with massive bumpsteer.

That's why you HAVE to go full hydro with a triangulated front suspension.
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that makes sense, thanks for clarifying that
 
thanks for all the info guys, stuff to def keep in mind when I get thee jeep tore down. Will keep updated once I get to working on jeep and see what happens with the front. Thank you
 
Any updates??
 
Van-go said:
Any updates??
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its coming along slowly lol. I finally got rear axle under it to mock up wow, LOTS AND LOTS of cutting with plasma cutter to get 40s to fit on 3" lift. I didn't realize how much higher my other xj buggy sat but anyhow, this 3" lift on 40s/tons is little "lower" than expected haha. it's gonna have a mean looking stance that's for sure and very stable with this height. will keep updated once I make some real progress. Boat sides are on (cutting out rockers was a pita).
 
Wifey got a workout helping moving the rear axle in. Fun part was me dragging it under the jeep on grass:mad::confused::(
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40s under a full body ZJ is going to take MASSIVE amounts of trimming at 3 inches of lift. Most off the shelf lifts for ZJs claim you need 7" springs to run 35s :eek:
 
BigClay said:
40s under a full body ZJ is going to take MASSIVE amounts of trimming at 3 inches of lift. Most off the shelf lifts for ZJs claim you need 7" springs to run 35s :eek:
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Yes I know lol. But with plasma cutter, saw saw and some Fuller ingenuity anything is possible haha
 
Van-go said:
Two of my buddies had ZJ’s on 42’s. This should be fun!
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It's different, good in some ways bad in others. I'm liking it so far for the most part lol. More tedious cutting than the XJ. I've got rear axle almost even with the rear so I like that much better. With low to the ground and 117" wheelbase should be way more stable than the other buggy. Longer wheelbase will also favor me when I get a doubler down the road hehe. Well that's it for now
 
Gotta admit that Sterling rear is WAY more forgiving on ground clearance for the tire size vs the D70 I had
 
marty79 said:
Gotta admit that Sterling rear is WAY more forgiving on ground clearance for the tire size vs the D70 I had
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Ironically enough, the Sterling centersection and axle tubes as far as size are comparable to a Dana 80. :lol:
I do love mine though. The shafts stock for stock are larger than that of a 14 bolt. They also have a very convenient O-ring machined into the shaft flange which mean no more RTV. The factory discs just flat work.
Just whatever you do make sure you build a solid truss or at the very least welded tubes.

Hurry up get this done.
:beer:
 
Nothing like the feeling when rear sitting on it's own weight whew...
Ended up with 37.5 lowers, 32" uppers on 3" lift. I cycled the rear and wow, pretty awesome so far. Gonna need some long travel shocks for sure
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marty79 said:
Wifey got a workout helping moving the rear axle in. Fun part was me dragging it under the jeep on grass:mad::confused::(View attachment 291417
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Wifey is cute why she with you??? ;) This one is looking better than tony the tiger you built last time...... :D
 
ghost said:
Wifey is cute why she with you??? ;) This one is looking better than tony the tiger you built last time...... :D
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That's because I haven't got to the cage yet :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::D:driver:
 
skyhighZJ said:
Figure out a simple up and over truss or weld the tubes. Keep the updates coming!
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Huh..the rear has a truss been done for while. It's on pg 1 I think. Tubes are welded too.
 
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