- Joined
- Mar 13, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
I've found really good deals on Amazon for stuff like this. I bought a 230v 30a GFCI breaker for $40 open box instead of the $100 or whatever they normally cost.GFCI breaker
I've found really good deals on Amazon for stuff like this. I bought a 230v 30a GFCI breaker for $40 open box instead of the $100 or whatever they normally cost.GFCI breaker
I thought about them funny enough. Ill have to ask my buddy who he used to have his level 2 charger installed. I thought he called BECO, but that they were outrageous and then called another company in Thomasville and had them do the install.BECO has a great reputation in high point, but they are big enough - that your experience will depend on who gets sent out.
Sounds like you already have the answer. Want me to delete this thread?I thought about them funny enough. Ill have to ask my buddy who he used to have his level 2 charger installed. I thought he called BECO, but that they were outrageous and then called another company in Thomasville and had them do the install.
I've found really good deals on Amazon for stuff like this. I bought a 230v 30a GFCI breaker for $40 open box instead of the $100 or whatever they normally cost.
Lowe’s, HD, etc. usually won’t accept returns on GFCI or Arc fault breakers.heat and hot waterAre any of your appliances gas?
The most intuitive and sensible post I've ever cared for RLG to write that I read lolI'd like to point out that OP @Cherokeekid88 just bought a used Tesla. I'd bet my hat this is for his charger.
There's more to this than just voltage. How many amps do you need? Hence what ga wire? Is there is a special kind of plug? Will this plug on the other side of the wall from your box be in the right place for plugging in the car?
With only 3 open slots and you're about to use 2 of them... how is the rest of the power situation in the garage? If you're running a heavy gauge wire for 240 anyway, is it worthwhile to make it a 60A and put a sub panel on the other end in the garage and be ready to tee off your charger line plus a few more 120s later? Its hardly any more work, all the PITA work will be running the wire, not the hookups.
OP came here asking about the cost to have this done by somebody else. IMO he's on the right track. This isn't a hard task, and would definitely be a journeyman job for an electrician. I'd do it myself w/o thinking twice but I've also cumulative spent weeks of my life reading code and years building up comfort - my impression is OP has no experience doing electrical and IMO running a 240v isn't the place to start DIYing. There's a lot of little things that matter to do it to code.
IMO best scenario is to find a knowledgeable friend to pay and do for you and walk you through it, or just pay a local guy and politely ask if you can watch what he does so you can understand better.
Especially a damn keurig. Some of those fawkers are hogsit. Biggest load is probably charging the car and trying to run the dryer and cook breakfast (don't forget about the toaster, coffee makers, etc, lol... They're 1500w each.)
Fawk a Keurig anyway. They are garbage Petri dishes.Especially a damn keurig. Some of those fawkers are hogs
Won't pull more than 1800w, b/c Americuh.Especially a damn keurig. Some of those fawkers are hogs
Generjunk came out with their first Honda /Onan inverter knock off ….name plate rated at 2000w…. We ran some special promo sell deal….sold like 1800 in a month. Had to process like 200 returns - and we weren’t set up for retail. I bet 90% of the returns were ‘My keurig trips it off’Won't pull more than 1800w, b/c Americuh.
So the guy from BECO said I could run the 240 outlet but I’d have to be careful of running too many things at a time. Would it be wise to go that route if I am charging on non peak hours (2am- 6 am) or depending on how much the new 200 amp panel is gonna run and potentially go that route?Water heater (if electric) and dryer are the biggest reliable loads, other than the car charger. They're each about 30a at 240v. The range is going to pull anywhere from like 10-50a, depending on how many elements are on and how much they're turned up. But that depends on how much you use it and when. Resistance coils in the heat pump are the other big draw, but you're good there. No well, I assume...?
If you only have a 125a panel (wtf?), you could always consider a 20a or maybe 30a 240v circuit. You can run a load calc to see. Pull the nameplate wattages off all your major appliances and get Grok or Claude to do it. Biggest load is probably charging the car and trying to run the dryer and cook breakfast (don't forget about the toaster, coffee makers, etc, lol... They're 1500w each.)
Water heater is gas. No well.Water heater (if electric) and dryer are the biggest reliable loads, other than the car charger. They're each about 30a at 240v. The range is going to pull anywhere from like 10-50a, depending on how many elements are on and how much they're turned up. But that depends on how much you use it and when. Resistance coils in the heat pump are the other big draw, but you're good there. No well, I assume...?
If you only have a 125a panel (wtf?), you could always consider a 20a or maybe 30a 240v circuit. You can run a load calc to see. Pull the nameplate wattages off all your major appliances and get Grok or Claude to do it. Biggest load is probably charging the car and trying to run the dryer and cook breakfast (don't forget about the toaster, coffee makers, etc, lol... They're 1500w each.)
That price… is that if the customer already has 240v hookup?This is a great point and the angle I was going to go.
I know I am about to sound snarky, and I am all for DIY. But electricity is the one thing that can burn down your home and kill you. And EV chargers are pretty much by far the largest power consumers most folks will have in their home.
Based on OP's posting history, it is highly likely he is going to ignore the next two things I post () but I will offer unsolicited advice anyway.
As someone who has installed a few hundred EV chargers. For home personal use
- Buy the damn Tesla brand charger, dont try to save a few bucks.
- Buy the 'Wall Connector' not the 'Mobile Connector'
All joking aside, if its as you describe - if you were local we'd supply the Tesla 'wall connector', wire it and mount it for ~$1,000-1,200.
$600 of that is the device.
If you have a sparky friend you probably have under $100 in materials and 2 hours of labor
You just need to look at you usage habits.So the guy from BECO said I could run the 240 outlet but I’d have to be careful of running too many things at a time. Would it be wise to go that route if I am charging on non peak hours (2am- 6 am) or depending on how much the new 200 amp panel is gonna run and potentially go that route?