Alaska Cabin Build (Planning Thread)

ckruzer

Infidel
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Location
asheville nc
Ok. It’s official. Planning the build of an Alaska cabin with side shop/garage. Hoping to use this thread as a sounding board as I know a lot of yours are experts.

I appreciate any input anyone has!

Looking to stick with a cash budget of 150k’ish. Land, looking at 20k’ish prices out in the areas we are looking.

Been told to budget $10k for septic and well.

Thanks!
 
Looking at cabin kits. Very interested in a 2300 sq ft one for about $70k.

For heating want to pick the most efficient. We are talking -50 temps potential. Looking at radiant floor with a wood boiler. Inside garage that is if allowed. Don’t think outside would be efficient? Otherwise a oil boiler i guess. Looks like I will need r100 on the floor for this. Typically no foundations as very risky when ground thaws, so usually built off ground, so may not be able to go radiant floor with gypsum, maybe with air space. Don’t know how much those stilted floors can handle.

For cooling looking at ductless mini splits, recessed. The external unit may need to fit into an external mech room for winter protection when off and used for the one month out of the year. Maybe a window that can be left open on this mech room for air flow when used.
 
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Looking at a 24x24 garage kit to accompany the cabin kit. Looks about $24k’ish. Would prob look at this housing the boiler, whether that be a wood one or a gas one.

Thinking on the outdoor unit for the ductless split units. It houses the refrigerant. Wonder if it’s within code for that to be in attic space?

Thinking attached is best for housing the boiler. Capture some of that heat for a heated garage. And to be close enough to centrally locate all the mech

But outside wood boiler maybe safest with a CB rated for cold temps. If land choose is too populated may have to go the oil route due to wood sourcing
 
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Cabin comes with a fireplace. Looking at a overhang for the garage for immediate wood storage. And thinking I’ll build a separate structure on my own to house wood hoarding. (Not part of budget). Wood depend on wood or oil boiler I guess
 
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Back when I used to build log homes, katahdin, lidel or lindel were the better ones.. cabin=4 walls, home>4 walls. Most use foam/butyl to seal between logs, and plastic/rubber coated splines & elastomeric caulk between door bucks and log ends and butt/pass. Dovetail you are stuck with elastomeric caulk on both sides of the dove. Done right during assembly is key. Log homes can be sealed well if attention is paid during building.. if it's not, well, you're pretty much screwed... My personal choice is butyl over foam and splined joints. Allows expansion and contraction without losing seal. I imagine the foam would degrade over time and compromise the sealing effect.. I personally prefer the double tongue and groove with dual splines at joints. Strong back and brace the walls as they go up to keep them true. (Slotted holes to permit settling) same on the door/window bucks. I've seen so much go wrong during assembly of them... Then you've got to choose if you're doing a stick framed roof or timber frame.. whatever you pick make sure your crew does it to your satisfaction... Cut corners during assembly will cause tons of grief down the road. Make sure posts get levelers on top if you're doing a loft.. saves aggravation when it settles. Drill logs for wiring as you go up also. Sucks to do it after there's already 4' of wall up.
 
Back when I used to build log homes, katahdin, lidel or lindel were the better ones.. cabin=4 walls, home>4 walls. Most use foam/butyl to seal between logs, and plastic/rubber coated splines & elastomeric caulk between door bucks and log ends and butt/pass. Dovetail you are stuck with elastomeric caulk on both sides of the dove. Done right during assembly is key. Log homes can be sealed well if attention is paid during building.. if it's not, well, you're pretty much screwed... My personal choice is butyl over foam and splined joints. Allows expansion and contraction without losing seal. I imagine the foam would degrade over time and compromise the sealing effect.. I personally prefer the double tongue and groove with dual splines at joints. Strong back and brace the walls as they go up to keep them true. (Slotted holes to permit settling) same on the door/window bucks. I've seen so much go wrong during assembly of them... Then you've got to choose if you're doing a stick framed roof or timber frame.. whatever you pick make sure your crew does it to your satisfaction... Cut corners during assembly will cause tons of grief down the road. Make sure posts get levelers on top if you're doing a loft.. saves aggravation when it settles. Drill logs for wiring as you go up also. Sucks to do it after there's already 4' of wall up.

Thanks man! Looking more so at t111 siding at the moment due to color choice options. (Painting). The wife does like the log look. Don’t know yet.
 
Oh somehow my mind slipped log in front of cabin.... Lol

And they sell stain about any color you want.
Stick built probably is better insulation wise. I think logs are about r8 or so
 
A cabin kit typically is just the logs precut most don’t come with windows doors or roof system. Or floor system. At 70,000 for a kit your going to be over budget right out of the gate.

Using your budget your looking at building for a little more than 54 bucks a square foot not including garage. I don’t know what the cost of building is in Alaska but NC averages around 100 and in wnc is anywhere from 125-225 depending on area.

I’ve been building log cabins all my life and my dad has done it for 40 years that said I would stick frame. The cost of maintenance is high they aren’t insulated enough for that cold, you could frame interior and insulate but then your basically building a house inside a house and cost go up.


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I’d be interested in seeing the kit to see what is and isn’t included. I’ve got a sf cost for a lot of stuff I could ball park how much extra it would cost to finish here to give you some kind of reference point


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I just looked at some of my cost index stuff. Average cost is 164 sf for basic construction
Average range is 132-196 sf
This is for Lowe’s quality products everything stocked items and no custom sized casework


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I just looked at some of my cost index stuff. Average cost is 164 sf for basic construction
Average range is 132-196 sf
This is for Lowe’s quality products everything stocked items and no custom sized casework


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Def interested in your knowledge man. Not log cabins tho. Cabin style, as in simple. Lol

Hard to go smaller in sqft to fit needs.
 
Def interested in your knowledge man

I reread what I posted and it sounded Dickish, I deal with people that have no clue what it cost to do construction daily, wouldn’t want you to think you got it figured out get up there and have half a house and run outta money.... it happens a lot more then you’d think, especially if the owner try’s to do it themselves


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I reread what I posted and it sounded Dickish, I deal with people that have no clue what it cost to do construction daily, wouldn’t want you to think you got it figured out get up there and have half a house and run outta money.... it happens a lot more then you’d think, especially if the owner try’s to do it themselves


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Dick!
 
I reread what I posted and it sounded Dickish, I deal with people that have no clue what it cost to do construction daily, wouldn’t want you to think you got it figured out get up there and have half a house and run outta money.... it happens a lot more then you’d think, especially if the owner try’s to do it themselves


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No worries man!

It’s the 70k for everything. Excluding doors. Don’t know if cabinets include.

These kits are cheap because you get a set design. Pretty open and very basic. Bulk pricing?
 
No worries man!

It’s the 70k for everything. Excluding doors. Don’t know if cabinets include.

These kits are cheap because you get a set design. Pretty open and very basic. Bulk pricing?

I’d have to look at the kits to see what was and wasn’t included. Sent it to me or post a link or something and I’ll look at it today.


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Oh somehow my mind slipped log in front of cabin.... Lol


DAMN..I did too....and in reading the replies, I think Shane was the only one that didn't :lol:


Interesting topic fo sho :popcorn:
 
I just looked at some of my cost index stuff. Average cost is 164 sf for basic construction
Average range is 132-196 sf
This is for Lowe’s quality products everything stocked items and no custom sized casework


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not to de-rail the thread, but I'm building a spec house right now. Basically a flipped a house couple years back and got a free lot. So now Im building a 1,280 sqft "starter" house on the free lot to maximize profit. I got my builder license but I will not swing a hammer or pick up any tool other than a cell phone on this whole build. Subbing everything out. House is currently dried in and half finished. Budget right now shows I'll walk out at $84 sqft.

Now that's nothing fancy, for sure. And I've got good subs, and Im not in Asheville market. But especially if he is going to labor much of this, he can get well under $130/square
 
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