And so it begins....

Haven't been back out on the track, have been helping with checkin. Will update later...
 
It's got a traction bar. But it's not ideal for lots of up and down wheel travel. I'm not sure if thats what did it or not cause I haven't been able to talk to snappy yet.
traction bar.jpg
Here's what he has now.
This type of bar forces the axle to wrap as it goes up and down through the cycle. With the shorter shocks he's running and stock YJ springs we assumed this would work fine. If it is causing the problem we may have to rebuild it to something more like an old school toyota front anti wrap bar where there's a fixed tower on top of the axle with a link bar from it forward or back to a crossmember with pivots at both ends. That type will allow for full wheel travel without fighting the axles natural movement. I guess we'll see soon. GOOD LUCK TOMORROW SNAPPY!. no pressure but you better win!
 
With as long as those spring perches are and that being a full leaf pack, he might be better off just getting rid of it altogether for now? What time does B class race?
 
Finished second in the rock crawl tonight!!!! We bent the front tie rod in about 12" but bent it back with a winch during the day prerunning. Its going to be a blast in the am... The issue with the rear springs was the fact that the stock springs where way soft and we had no rear bumps. Issues are being adressed and parts order here at the race....
 
It never happened without any pics!! Let's see some pics!
 
It's got a traction bar. But it's not ideal for lots of up and down wheel travel. I'm not sure if thats what did it or not cause I haven't been able to talk to snappy yet.
View attachment 48495
Here's what he has now.
This type of bar forces the axle to wrap as it goes up and down through the cycle. With the shorter shocks he's running and stock YJ springs we assumed this would work fine. If it is causing the problem we may have to rebuild it to something more like an old school toyota front anti wrap bar where there's a fixed tower on top of the axle with a link bar from it forward or back to a crossmember with pivots at both ends. That type will allow for full wheel travel without fighting the axles natural movement. I guess we'll see soon. GOOD LUCK TOMORROW SNAPPY!. no pressure but you better win!


Is this what you are refering to?
awww.4x4wire.com_jeep_tech_susp_axlewrap_soa4.gif
 
The new rear springs worked out great. Getting air bumps for the rear and new tierod from ironman and its game on for dpg!!!
 
Is this what you are refering to?
awww.4x4wire.com_jeep_tech_susp_axlewrap_soa4.gif
Yep but with a taller tower and a little different angle on the link so it works with the springs better. This will still force the springs to wrap through the cycle but it's a bit easier to match the axles natural movement.
 
Actually. Looking at your drawing you may have meant using one of those on each side mounted to the ubolt plate. I actually meant for it to be toward the center of the axle like what he's got now and only one of them.
 
Tough luck snap...The first race is always a gremlin race. May have been mentioned but is that tie rod .25 wall? If so very impressive..
 
Actually. Looking at your drawing you may have meant using one of those on each side mounted to the ubolt plate. I actually meant for it to be toward the center of the axle like what he's got now and only one of them.


I am running a anti-wrap bar with dodge dakota springs in the rear. I am bending my leafs. Trying to figure aut a better way with out the cost of the 4 link..
 
My springs bent because they where too soft and I didn't cut off the ubolts and they hit the frame and bent some stuff....
 
How long is the bar you have now? The longer you can make the bar the less it will rotate the axle through the range of travel. The setup snappy has now is probably the most effective IMO and the other ways is a bit less effective but works better with a rig that lands hard in the rear.
Another thing to think about is the fact that a few thick leaves will have much more wrap than lots of thin leaves. Try taking out your bottom thick leaf or two and add 3 stock Yj leaves. Use the longest ones from the yj's you can. It's something I've wanted to try. If I had more free time I'd see what I could come up with for a good bastard pack. Old cj's had lots of thin leaves but they were only like 1.5 wide. Some of the land cruisers I've seen have pretty good setups too. Dakota and xj main leaves work good for a lot of guys setups. If you could use that main leaf and add 6, 7 or even 8 3/16" leaves to that and do it all from junkyard parts. You'd end up with a great all around spring that wouldn't hardly need a wrap bar and anybody could do it on the cheap.
 
the bar I have now is 45' long. I like the bastard pack idea. I'll try it & let you know how it works out. Thanks for the tip.
 
The thin leaf multi pack is a good way to go, but it can add a lot of friction and unnecessary bind to your suspension cycle if you dont prep the springs first.
In years past I have had very good luck using a spray on dry moly lube. Desert race trucks swear by it. Hit each spring with 180 grit on a DA sander untill smooth, wipe down clean, and hit it with the dry moly spray. It makes a noticeable difference in how smooth your leaves will move and flex. I get it from Chemplex. I am sure its on ebay. The other thing most folks do is cut the ends of each leaf to a semi point with about a 1 inch flat tip left at the end.
 
I am running a marine grade, low friction 1/8" thick plastic strips in between the leafs in the front. I will do the same in the rear. I can thank "your hot dog guy" for that tip. they work great!
 
sorry about the hijack snappy..
 
Marsfab came thur with a fix for my steering issue. This gave us another inch of clearance. Now ironman4x4fab is fixing my new tierod.....1.75" coldrolled solid!!!
uploadfromtaptalk1342740346741.jpg
 
Well now... If that dont fix it, you are just too bad assed for your own good!:D

That boy can sure weld, cant he?!!
 
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