Another 1 ton YJ (but this one is mine)

[chupacabrah]

I've had my 1993 YJ jeep since early 2006, I bought it completely stock in great shape:

I rarely drive it, so it is definitely not a DD. But it's not quite a dedicated trail rig, either. Mostly on the trail, though
It is a 4.0L, with the AX-15 5 speed. NP231j is the transfercase.

I have a full build thread over on Jeepforum, but I figured it would be good to start fresh to keep from getting myself confused with where I am. Here is that link, though: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-jeep-stock-now-chupacabrah-387457/

My current state at the time I started this build was as so:

• d30 front (4.10, aussie, diff guard)
• ford 8.8 rear (4.10, aussie, diff guard)
• 3.5" fabtech lift (SUA)
• 0.75" lift MORE boomerang shackles
• Ultra 87 aluminum wheels, 15x8
• 33x12.50 Dunlop Mud tires (mudrovers?)
• custom built rear tire carrier/bumper (my buddy cody built it)
• herc'd tub
• warn front bumper
• TJ flares (trimmed wheel wells)

I had broken 1 d30 axle shaft (the middle one), and ripped balljoints out a week later. Rather than fix this, I decided it was a good time to pull everything out and go a little bigger, since I'd been on 33s for 4 years.
and my wife said I need to have at least 37s


My Goal state at the end of this build:

• Dana 60 front axle, 5.13s, locked (probably spartan)
• Dana 60 (or 14b) rear axle, 5.13s, locked (probably welded)
• SOA
• 37s or 38s
• New seats w/ 5 pt harnesses
• cage with frame tie-ins

and honestly the seats, harnesses and cage might have to come a little later...this is going to be a pretty sloooooowww build,as funds allow.
Hey, I've got 2 kids < 3 yrs old and 1 due any day now....life is hectic, what do you expect?

Ok so, here is a picture inbetween the stock above, and most current:

and here are a couple of more recent:

and now..here's a shot before I removed my suspension:

and here's how it is right now, sitting in my workstation:

Lets get started...

 

[chupacabrah]

I got this heavy piece a few weeks ago from another forum member.
It is a '79 F350 Dana 60, geared 3.54 with open diff.

I had to go buy the hoist to get it off the trailer, haha:

I am currently pulling apart the hubs and removing shafts. then while the shafts are out I will haul it off to get regeared to my desired 5.13 and get a locker...probably ECGS, unless I come across something else that's a better deal. After all that, hub re-assembly. I'll probably wait until all of that is finished before I start posting pics, since it will be so drawn out. I am detailing it here, though.

I am picking up a 30 spline FF Dana 60 rear next month sometime. I still might change my mind and go 14 bolt....but I think the 60 should do well.

I made a (very estimated) list of junk I still need:

item, description, vendor, price
rear simple swap, ruffstuff, 120
rear diff cover, ruffstuff, 95
rear disc brakes, Gubni nc4x4, 315
front regear (5.13), ecgs, 579
front spartan locker, ecgs, 317
front brake calipers (2, ea. @ 38), 80
rear anti-wrap/traction bar (#TB500), MORE, 240
front shock hoops (#SH300), MORE, 88
front SS brake lines 28" (#SBL28F), MORE, 82
rear SS brake lines 24" (#SBL24R), MORE, 40
front axle simpe swap, ruffstuff, 120
front diff cover, ruffstuff, 95
steering, ???, 500???
wheels, H2s?, 200
tires, 37s or 38s, lots
shocks, ???, 200
new driveshafts or resize/configure current ones, ???, 300

completely estimated...that is around $3300 left to spend, excluding tires and random hardware etc!
plus other stuff I want to do...
new seats w/ 5pt harnesses
new/reinforced cage

some of that list may or may not change, and pricing is guessed or estimated. either way, it's going to take me at least a year to get all of this stuff together. Anything sooner than that, and I'll be ecstatic!

 

[chupacabrah]

I traded my fabtech 3.5" lift springs for these RE 1.5 SOA springs (thanks MarsFab ):

Possibly can see it in the pics, but one of the spring pins is bent and needs to be replaced. I'll make a trip out to Lowes to get a grade 8 bolt/nut tomorrow.

The bushings were pretty worn, and the ferrels were loose, so I replaced all of the bushings with some poly ones I had on had. some from my lift, and some...that I had laying around from I don't know what.

Also, since I had 4 MORE greasable boom shackles, I used those ferrels for the spring eyes on the shackle side.

for the other 4, I figured that since I have lots of 9/16" greasable bolts, I would put them all around. I didn't have any more ferrels that were made to be greasable, so I got creative.

I had these laying around also:

Got them right (on top is actual MORE ferrel):

THEN it turned out that I should have measured first...these ferrels were for 1/2" bolts. doh!

I happened to have a couple more on hand, although they weren't quite as nice. and 2 of them were the "rolled" kind, which I'm not a fan of...but hey, they work.

So now the springs have new bushings, greasable (ish) ferrels, and brand new MORE greasable 9/16" bolts all around. :thumbsup:

Replaced those bushings, and center pins in 2 of the springs...yeah, they were a little wore out:

Fresh bushings, new center pin (hex head grade 8 bolt), white lithium grease sprayed between the leaves, and NEW M.O.R.E. greasable 9/16 bolts. :thumbsup:

center pin (hex head bolt):

front 2 spring packs installed. I may go back and replace the center pins on these as well. yes, that tie rod and drag link need to go!

 

[drkelly]

Looks good.

Go with a 14 bolt FF. Don't mess around with the D60 rear. Why? Because 1-3 years from now you will upgrade from 37/38" tires to 42"+ tires.

Also, upgrade the 30 spline stubs shafts on that front D60 to 35 splines while you have it apart.

Call WFO concepts for your steering parts.
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/cr/Steering/3163

Check you driver side steering knuckle for cracks in the upper area.

 

[chupacabrah]

I almost did go with a 14b, but then now I've already made a deposit on the 30 spline d60 so I can't really back out now, anyway.
I honestly will never go larger than a 38" tire!
I figured with that being the case, the dana 60 would serve well, even with puny 30 spline shafts.

I've been on 33s for about 4 years (on the same set of tires, even)

i've thought about upgrading the stubs while I've got it out and apart. I'll look around and see what I can find. i've got nothing but time, after all.

thanks!

 

[mmmkay325]

x2 on the 14b, how much is the deposit?? Think hard about it before you commit, you could still backout and go 14b and be ahead in money in the long run. Or heck just sell the rear 60 to some other guy. But if you are dead set on the rear 60....you can pick up some chromoly shafts for the rear (cut to length) for pretty cheap. I think it was like $75/ea from Yukon for mine when I did a 3/4 swap. They are still 30spline but would fare better than stock. Just my 2cents...I just did a 1-ton swap under my yj so if you have any questions hit me up. Rock on!

 

[chupacabrah]

x2 on the 14b, how much is the deposit?? Think hard about it before you commit, you could still backout and go 14b and be head in money in the long run. Or heck just sell the rear 60 to so other guy. But if you are dead set on the rear 60....you can pick up some chromoly shafts for the rear (cut to length) for pretty cheap. I think it was like $75/ea from Yukon for mine when I did a 3/4 swap. They are still 30spline but would fare better than stock. Just my 2cents...I just did a 1-ton swap under my yj so if you have any questions hit me up. Rock on!

I'm not dead set on the 60, actually still enticed by the 14b... but my general problems/concerns still are:

• -ground clearance (but...it *can* be shaved. don't know clearance vs d60 at that point)
• -clearance to gas tank, would rather not run a fuel cell if I can avoid it, so I can still have a back seat for the kids
• -if I run the 14b, the next weak link would be... driveshaft? d-shaft ujoints? I don't want the next weak link to be my xfer case or tranny etc.

I'm sure I'll have lots of questions!

 

[drkelly]

i've thought about upgrading the stubs while I've got it out and apart. I'll look around and see what I can find. i've got nothing but time, after all.
thanks!

https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pr...a-60-35-Spline-Upgrade-Kit-w{47}-Locking-Hubs

 

[mmmkay325]

I'm not dead set on the 60, actually still enticed by the 14b... but my general problems/concerns still are:

• -ground clearance (but...it *can* be shaved. don't know clearance vs d60 at that point)
• -clearance to gas tank, would rather not run a fuel cell if I can avoid it, so I can still have a back seat for the kids
• -if I run the 14b, the next weak link would be... driveshaft? d-shaft ujoints? I don't want the next weak link to be my xfer case or tranny etc.

I'm sure I'll have lots of questions!

Jon, your gonna hate me when you read the book I wrote you in PM....I'm long winded

-Ground Clearance: the 14b is huge...but unless you run 35's you'll not be that bad off. I'm on 39's and mine sits 11-12" from bottom center to ground. I didn't do the extreme cut everyone else does on the 14bs....well mmmcause I ain't got the skillz to make it look purdy! But I did grind off the backside/bottom lip to a smooth ramp...that rocks bash on then kinda slides off

-Gas tank: That would probably be an issue, but I don't know I'm running a stretched rear so I had to loose my tank. I have my RCI fuel cell recessed into the floor and still have a back seat. But you could also not recess it and still run it in the back behind the seat. Cell was $200 and am using the stock YJ pump/sending unit.

-Driveshaft: Probably, but you could build a shaft 1350 series and be good. (someonese else would have to chime in about the 231 yoke being strong?) I'm still running a driveshaft up at the CV with 1310's and down at the yoke i'm using the conversion joint 1310/1350. I just carry spares and I've yet to break...but will just upgrade to bigger series driveshaft when i do....pushing the weaker link to I guess the output of the tcase.

Shoot me your email/# and I'll try to send you some pics of my setup and talk you through some of this if you have questions.


-Adam

 

[chupacabrah]

https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pr...a-60-35-Spline-Upgrade-Kit-w{47}-Locking-Hubs

thanks! are the stock stubs particularly weak?
This may be something I upgrade later on, if I have problems.

Jon, your gonna hate me when you read the book I wrote you in PM....I'm long winded
-Ground Clearance: the 14b is huge...but unless you run 35's you'll not be that bad off. I'm on 39's and mine sits 11-12" from bottom center to ground. I didn't do the extreme cut everyone else does on the 14bs....well mmmcause I ain't got the skillz to make it look purdy! But I did grind off the backside/bottom lip to a smooth ramp...that rocks bash on then kinda slides off
-Gas tank: That would probably be an issue, but I don't know I'm running a stretched rear so I had to loose my tank. I have my RCI fuel cell recessed into the floor and still have a back seat. But you could also not recess it and still run it in the back behind the seat. Cell was $200 and am using the stock YJ pump/sending unit.
-Driveshaft: Probably, but you could build a shaft 1350 series and be good. (someonese else would have to chime in about the 231 yoke being strong?) I'm still running a driveshaft up at the CV with 1310's and down at the yoke i'm using the conversion joint 1310/1350. I just carry spares and I've yet to break...but will just upgrade to bigger series driveshaft when i do....pushing the weaker link to I guess the output of the tcase.
Shoot me your email/# and I'll try to send you some pics of my setup and talk you through some of this if you have questions.

-Adam

I always forget about those 1310/1350 combo joints...maybe I will go that route.

Now that I think about it, I will probably have to move my gas tank, anyway. My 8.8 *almost* hits it as is, so a 1 ton axle is much more likely.

I am now pursuing a 14bolt rear, I think this is really the best direction to go, for future modifications. even IF I never go larger than 38s it would be good to have. but then again, who knows--at one point in time I probably said i would never go larger than 35s

 

[336wheeler]

My rear 44 in my YJ with a diff guard hits the gas tank, SUA. For any bigger of a housing, you will get into the gas tank - especially with a stretch that's worthwhile. If you move your gas tank and still want to use waggy springs, you can always use the "plus 2" perches that ruffstuff has... for a total of a 4" rear stretch. Probably the easiest way to go without having to make new shackle hangers off of a crossmember on the rear of the frame. Just do a sawzall shave with the 14 bolt to get the huge lip off - no reason to do any really crazy shave job. I doubt that the fab time you'd have into it will justify running "13 bolt".

These perches: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/2-perch-p-453.html

By the way - an RCI 2161 will leave you enough room for the backseat.

 

[thewagonmasternc]

I have a 14b under my SOA YJ with a Solid Ind. diff cover,mine doesnt touch.Im using YJ springs with a full length AAL.Im still at the stock wb.

 

[MarsFab]

Looks good man. Sorry bout the center pins. Didn't even realize they were bent. Hope it didn't cause you too much trouble. I got new bushings from the springs you gave me and they worked out great. Height is just right. Thanks again.

 

[Caver Dave]

I had to go buy the hoist to get it off the trailer

Ya could've called! Would've let you you re-fondle the M&P9... again!

Glad to see your build making progress! Holler if I can help...

 

[chupacabrah]

Looks good man. Sorry bout the center pins. Didn't even realize they were bent. Hope it didn't cause you too much trouble. I got new bushings from the springs you gave me and they worked out great. Height is just right. Thanks again.

glad they are working out for you! No worries on the pins, I half expect it from any springs used--more precautionary than anything.
These springs are looking good now that I've got all the bushings and things in them, so thank YOU

Ya could've called! Would've let you you re-fondle the M&P9... again!
Glad to see your build making progress! Holler if I can help...

hey man! I miss that gun... I think I need another full size
of course I haven't been able to go shooting in over a year now with any of the ones I already have. lol

my brother and I tried to unload the axle, but it's just too dang heavy. I figure the hoist will come in handy sooner or later anyhow.

I'm sure I'll need help as this project starts rolling

I have a 14b under my SOA YJ with a Solid Ind. diff cover,mine doesnt touch.Im using YJ springs with a full length AAL.Im still at the stock wb.

awesome, good to know!
I can add that to my "a little later" list of stuff to get, perhaps.

My rear 44 in my YJ with a diff guard hits the gas tank, SUA. For any bigger of a housing, you will get into the gas tank - especially with a stretch that's worthwhile. If you move your gas tank and still want to use waggy springs, you can always use the "plus 2" perches that ruffstuff has... for a total of a 4" rear stretch. Probably the easiest way to go without having to make new shackle hangers off of a crossmember on the rear of the frame. Just do a sawzall shave with the 14 bolt to get the huge lip off - no reason to do any really crazy shave job. I doubt that the fab time you'd have into it will justify running "13 bolt".

These perches: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/2-perch-p-453.html

By the way - an RCI 2161 will leave you enough room for the backseat.

As long as I can keep the backseat, I wouldn't mind having a fuel cell. I guess it just depends how it works in the budget and "as needed."

those "+2" perches look very interesting.

with longer springs, more flex can be achieved I guess, but with stock length springs is there much benefit to extending the wheelbase?

 

[336wheeler]

Waggy springs with a SOA don't typically make for the lowest vehicles... extended wheelbase definitely helps with climbing and overall stability. Those waggy springs should flex well enough for you - definitely a spring worth running, even if you want the characteristics of longer wheelbase without the fab included.

 

[chupacabrah]

Waggy springs with a SOA don't typically make for the lowest vehicles... extended wheelbase definitely helps with climbing and overall stability. Those waggy springs should flex well enough for you - definitely a spring worth running, even if you want the characteristics of longer wheelbase without the fab included.

sweet...but...
these aren't waggys, they're RE 1.5" lift SOA (reverse eye) springs!

 

[77GreenMachine]

nice build man! wish mine was coming along as fast.
im still shocked about your wife actually telling you you need "at least 37s" thats awesome man!

 

[chupacabrah]

nice build man! wish mine was coming along as fast.
im still shocked about your wife actually telling you you need "at least 37s" thats awesome man!

thanks

fast? haha man this is going to take me a really long time to finish

yeah I'm pretty lucky
the only reason we started dating in the first place was because she liked my lifted jeep haha!

 

[drkelly]

thanks! are the stock stubs particularly weak?

Depending on how you drive, they might last a while with 37/38's. A buddy of mine broke two stock 30 spline stub shafts running 38's though. The stock D60 30 spline stub shafts aren't really any larger/stronger than a D44 stub shaft. Excluding of course the fact that the U-joint is larger, but that isn't where it breaks. Typically the shaft itself shatters inside the spindle. The problem is that when they break, they can cause the spindle to balloon out and damage it also making it difficult to get the wheel hub off. One of his broke and didn't damage the spindle. However, when the other one broke it did fawk up the spindle.

 

[chupacabrah]

hm, maybe I should replace them before I put it all back together.


I'm trying to get a 14 bolt now...possibly this weekend. Just as soon as I can get out to go pick it up, I guess.
It's a C&C, so I am going to get some SRW hubs from drkelly there to push the width back out a few inches.

I thought my bike was sold, but the guy never made the deposit so I'm not too sure what is going on with that... If he does wind up buying it, that will help me get a little more done.

 

[chupacabrah]

I've been a little slack getting this stuff done.

My 3rd kid was born October 2nd (2nd daughter), we just got back from the hospital yesterday. Needless to say, things have been hectic (and will probably now continue to be)

to recap:
Front D60 maintenance etc is detailed here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/just-picked-up-front-d60-what-maintenance-should-i-do-1098475/

Rear axle questions etc discussion has been going on here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/some-rear-dana-60-ff-questions-1103547/

other stuff:

• still haven't picked up the rear axle...
• I removed shafts cleaned out hubs and everything out of the d60 front. waiting for regear to re-assemble
• I cleaned and painted the rear spring packs that I had put new pins in
• I plan to remove the front spring packs and put new pins in those as well, for symmetry.
• My bike is selling this coming sunday (99% sure), after which I will use some of the proceeds (that my wife doesn't take) to regear the front and buy some more parts
• I will attempt to regear the 14b myself, so that'll be interesting
• trying to decide if I want to run tie rod in stock location vs high steer front of axle vs high steer rear of axle.
• trying to decide h2 wheels vs recentered h1s

I guess that is about where I am with this. so...very little progress has been made!


I also need to run a 220v line so I can get a bigger welder...anybody an electrician around here?

 

[chupacabrah]

haven't done much, but got some wheels:

 

[chupacabrah]

got my rear axle now: C&C 14 bolt

once again, the hoist comes in handy!

Now I am trying to decide if i should stretch my wheelbase with xj springs, or maybe just do a ruffstuff 2+ stretch...hmm

i also need to get a welder/generator!

 

[broncosbybart]

Just stumbled across this thread. I was wondering how you were gonna get that front 60 out after we got it in there

Nothing done right seems to be done fast- which is why I never get anything done... Keep up the good work.