Jeremy1977
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2007
- Location
- WNC
Man I don't know....if it does not hold it would be a pain to pull the tank again 
Another LJ stretched on 42's "Sylvia"
- Thread starter VecoPlan
- Start date
bootsyj
Member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2010
- Location
- Concord nc
sweet build
keep the pics coming I'm watchin
keep the pics coming I'm watchin
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
Hey bud... you're building my driveshaft for me. I need to give you a call today...Man I don't know....if it does not hold it would be a pain to pull the tank again
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
Not at all actually it should be done today sans the driveshaft to be picked up Tuesday. I have just been traveling M-F and haven't had any time to load stuff up. I have quite a few picks of the work that I've been doing on the weekend and I'll have that posted up in the next couple of days. Stay tuned...
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
Aight.... Dave told me today that it actually is going to be Wed. before my driveshaft is done but I guess it's been 4 weeks... what's another 3 days going to hurt? So.. I thought I'd go ahead and post a couple pic of it sitting in the garage, mostly put back together.
Here is the tank... not exactly a technical mod... in fact a pretty easy one albeit my OCD "get it perfectly straight" personality combined with the fact that I did it by myself and I'm too cheap to waste 1/2 a tank of premium made it take alot longer than it probably should have. In November when I get my Q3 bonus Gen right is going to get a big check for an aluminum tank but for now still the stocker.
New bling stainless braided brake lines.
The future foot rest mount for the rear seats/ current upper mount for the shocks (it's awful I know but it's going to have to do for a short while)
The pinion brake full installed. I am thinking the cables are going to stretch a little bit so for now it's this set of cable ties but once I'm confident the distance is set I'm going to go to a slightly more cosmetic setup...
thats all for now. Flame away.
Here is the tank... not exactly a technical mod... in fact a pretty easy one albeit my OCD "get it perfectly straight" personality combined with the fact that I did it by myself and I'm too cheap to waste 1/2 a tank of premium made it take alot longer than it probably should have. In November when I get my Q3 bonus Gen right is going to get a big check for an aluminum tank but for now still the stocker.
New bling stainless braided brake lines.
The future foot rest mount for the rear seats/ current upper mount for the shocks (it's awful I know but it's going to have to do for a short while)
The pinion brake full installed. I am thinking the cables are going to stretch a little bit so for now it's this set of cable ties but once I'm confident the distance is set I'm going to go to a slightly more cosmetic setup...
thats all for now. Flame away.
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
Oh man... it never freaking ends. Several of you that know me know the deal that has been going down with Ballistic Fab. Long story short:
So... yeah. They forgot to weld in the fill plug... it came out and is now laying nicely in about $70 in fluids on my garage floor. I don't know how I didn't notice that it wasn't welded in, I guess it was so snuggly hammered in that I just didn't notice it being loose. Somehow it held fluid when I filled her up on Monday evening but... now I'm out a couple gallons of redline syn. fluid, I can only imagine what a mess I have to clean up when I land on Friday, and I am so thoroughly discouraged with Ballistic... who I really WANT to like.... but I'm running out of reasons.... anyhow... Just a vent.
Attached is the description off their site of the covers... plainly says fill welded in place.
"Dana 60 High Capacity Differential Cover made from 3/8" steel. Features high face clearance for tight steering applications. CNC Laser cut and CNC Press formed 16 times from one piece. The ultra thick 3/8" flange resists pulling off of the sealing surface while dragging the differential. Threaded fill plug already welded in place. Includes weld on skull logo and Grade 8 hardware. Differential ring and seams come welded and machined flat for a great fit."
I think my bottom line message is this:
These are really nice guys. Jeff, Dave, Allen, Will, and the like. Additionally, the design of their stuff I think is SUPER top notch. I also think they really care about their customers despite what the flamings on the bulletin board indicate... because they seem to "jump to" every time I point something out. They are mad scientists with a press brake... some of the best bends I've ever seen and I've been in machinery most of my life (www.vecoplan.com). But if you buy from these guys... the cost you have to pay is to thoroughly inspect everything before you use it... because I think that perhaps their attention to detail in the finishing stages is a bit lacking. I am honestly a little disappointed in this aspect of their business.
- I ordered a D60 cover with Truss link from them as I was told it would work with my D70 rear
- I got it, and it didn't fit... ring gear stuck out too far
- I sent them my stock D70 cover and they made me a custom cover based off it (Dr.Vic sent me a PM)
- It took a few weeks but I got it back and it fit (hooray). However, they forgot to put the truss tie-in plate on there as on the 60 cover I originally ordered (they also forgot to weld on the skull... in hindsight this should have been a warning)
- I'm in Boston for a trade show this week and my mom (who gets my mail for me when I'm out of town) calls me today and says there is a huge puddle of red fluid in my garage
So... yeah. They forgot to weld in the fill plug... it came out and is now laying nicely in about $70 in fluids on my garage floor. I don't know how I didn't notice that it wasn't welded in, I guess it was so snuggly hammered in that I just didn't notice it being loose. Somehow it held fluid when I filled her up on Monday evening but... now I'm out a couple gallons of redline syn. fluid, I can only imagine what a mess I have to clean up when I land on Friday, and I am so thoroughly discouraged with Ballistic... who I really WANT to like.... but I'm running out of reasons.... anyhow... Just a vent.
Attached is the description off their site of the covers... plainly says fill welded in place.
"Dana 60 High Capacity Differential Cover made from 3/8" steel. Features high face clearance for tight steering applications. CNC Laser cut and CNC Press formed 16 times from one piece. The ultra thick 3/8" flange resists pulling off of the sealing surface while dragging the differential. Threaded fill plug already welded in place. Includes weld on skull logo and Grade 8 hardware. Differential ring and seams come welded and machined flat for a great fit."
I think my bottom line message is this:
These are really nice guys. Jeff, Dave, Allen, Will, and the like. Additionally, the design of their stuff I think is SUPER top notch. I also think they really care about their customers despite what the flamings on the bulletin board indicate... because they seem to "jump to" every time I point something out. They are mad scientists with a press brake... some of the best bends I've ever seen and I've been in machinery most of my life (www.vecoplan.com). But if you buy from these guys... the cost you have to pay is to thoroughly inspect everything before you use it... because I think that perhaps their attention to detail in the finishing stages is a bit lacking. I am honestly a little disappointed in this aspect of their business.
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
Alright... so we're ironing out the final wrinkles to hopefully get the old girl driving. Here are the two thorns I'm trying to deal with right now:
1.) Got the driveshaft hooked up to the t-case side but it turns out that despite my measurements.. my 70 actually had a 1330 yoke not a 1350, so thats no good.
First problem with this is that the pinion nut (which appears to be a 1 5/16 btw... if anyone can verify this) has so little clearance to the inside of the yoke that I can't get a socket on it. I have a 1 1/4" 1/2" drive hand tool socket but my hand tool sockets don't go up quite high enough. I have a 1 5/16 impact for a 1/2" drive but the walls are too thick and it won't fit down in the hole, neither will my 3/4" drive hand tools. Anybody have and ideas here? Napa, Craftsman (via local Sears and Ace), Northern Tool, and Kobalt don't seem to be in stock in the 1 5/16" size in either a thin wall impact or a 1/2" hand tool size. The local Matco guy I always got stuff from in the past just retired and I've left 3 messages on the cell phone of the local Cornwell guy without geting a call back. If you live local to 27262 and have a socket that will work for me... it's worth a couple beers if you can let me borrow it for about 30 minutes.
Second problem I have is the spline count of the correct 1350 yoke end that I want to swap in, assuming I ever get the darn nut off. Since I'm burning time here trying to get this done I'd like to make sure I have the right part when I need it. Can anyone confirm this part? I believe it is a 32 spline yoke going on the pinion, and I picked one up accordingly, but again... I want to make sure.
2.) I upgraded the master cylinder to the 2500 unit. I bled the brakes out to the point I could pressure wash the underneath of my car with the flow rate of what I was getting with each bleed on all four corners bleeding the way I've always done- starting at the passenger rear, the driver rear, the pass front, the driver front. But the pedal still goes all the way to the floor. There is resistance mind you, but it definitely goes all the way down. Any thoughts here?
Thanks!
1.) Got the driveshaft hooked up to the t-case side but it turns out that despite my measurements.. my 70 actually had a 1330 yoke not a 1350, so thats no good.
First problem with this is that the pinion nut (which appears to be a 1 5/16 btw... if anyone can verify this) has so little clearance to the inside of the yoke that I can't get a socket on it. I have a 1 1/4" 1/2" drive hand tool socket but my hand tool sockets don't go up quite high enough. I have a 1 5/16 impact for a 1/2" drive but the walls are too thick and it won't fit down in the hole, neither will my 3/4" drive hand tools. Anybody have and ideas here? Napa, Craftsman (via local Sears and Ace), Northern Tool, and Kobalt don't seem to be in stock in the 1 5/16" size in either a thin wall impact or a 1/2" hand tool size. The local Matco guy I always got stuff from in the past just retired and I've left 3 messages on the cell phone of the local Cornwell guy without geting a call back. If you live local to 27262 and have a socket that will work for me... it's worth a couple beers if you can let me borrow it for about 30 minutes.
Second problem I have is the spline count of the correct 1350 yoke end that I want to swap in, assuming I ever get the darn nut off. Since I'm burning time here trying to get this done I'd like to make sure I have the right part when I need it. Can anyone confirm this part? I believe it is a 32 spline yoke going on the pinion, and I picked one up accordingly, but again... I want to make sure.
2.) I upgraded the master cylinder to the 2500 unit. I bled the brakes out to the point I could pressure wash the underneath of my car with the flow rate of what I was getting with each bleed on all four corners bleeding the way I've always done- starting at the passenger rear, the driver rear, the pass front, the driver front. But the pedal still goes all the way to the floor. There is resistance mind you, but it definitely goes all the way down. Any thoughts here?
Thanks!
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
OMF!
Here is a pic of the stock push rod screw. It has enough length that it could just be pushed all the way out but then I have only 5-10 threads engaged and I want more than that. So I took the bolt, the stock prop valve, and the sensor and put them in the enclosed box that the 1350 yoke I ordered came in and headed to Automotive Fasteners to get a new bolt in a longer length- I believed that 50mm would be good. Soul brotha on a moped yanks out in front of me, I slam on brakes, the box goes flying, I hear it hit (it's in the cargo bay of the SUV)... uh oh. I pull into AF and sure enough, box came open and the screw is nowhere to be found. I look EVERYWHERE with no luck. So... if anyone can pitch in with specs on that bolt I would appreciate it.
Here is a pic of the stock push rod screw. It has enough length that it could just be pushed all the way out but then I have only 5-10 threads engaged and I want more than that. So I took the bolt, the stock prop valve, and the sensor and put them in the enclosed box that the 1350 yoke I ordered came in and headed to Automotive Fasteners to get a new bolt in a longer length- I believed that 50mm would be good. Soul brotha on a moped yanks out in front of me, I slam on brakes, the box goes flying, I hear it hit (it's in the cargo bay of the SUV)... uh oh. I pull into AF and sure enough, box came open and the screw is nowhere to be found. I look EVERYWHERE with no luck. So... if anyone can pitch in with specs on that bolt I would appreciate it.
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
it was a 1/4" 28 bolt. Thanks for the help guys. I swear, you have to go through a 15mm, 2 13mm and 2 14mm bolts to get to the bolt, the hex pattern on the bolt is 7mm, but the thread pitch is SAE..... wtf?
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
So the driveshaft is finally in, and the brakes have the new prop valve installed. They had the Wilwood one in stock for like $40 out the door at CV products in Thomasville so I just went that route instead of waiting for Speedway/Summit and paying shipping to boot. Theoretically then, stage 1 is done.
And then...
Good news bad new scenario... Good news is it drives. Bad news is it drives like crapp.... not that this isn't to be expected considering it just got back rolling tonight but still- the frustration continues.
Here are my thoughts:
1.) I didn't have the heart to pull it out and look but the speedo didn't register when I drove it to the end of the driveway and back. I changed the Speedo gear to the new tire size when I was rebuilding the t-case so I am thinking I didn't get it engaged properly when I popped it back in. My concern is that bad boy is a $100 piece of plastic so i'm hoping that i didn't shear the teeth off on my little 50 yd adventure but given how things have gone thus far- that kind of luck seems optimistic at best. We'll find out.
2.) She won't go into 2,4 ( i didn't try 6th in my driveway but I think it's a safe bet the bottom gears arent engaging as a whole. I'm thinking the culprit is interference with the tub from the t-case lower kit and since my driveline angle is WAY better than I thought it would be I believe I am just going to tear that bad boy off and raise the drivetrain back up and see if that helps... I'm betting it will. It's hideous anyhow so I'm hoping this works.
3.) the rear end feels looser than Courtney Love's pharmacist... it actually feels like it's moving laterally... which I don't get considering I didn't really change much in the geometry back there but it certainly isn't dialed in yet. I'm not running a rear sway bar- but I wasn't before either and it drove perfectly.
I'm going to bed... I'm pretty defeated for the day- time to get some rest and get ready to try and start figuring things out tomorrow. I'll post pics then it is isn't pouring down rain still.
And then...
Good news bad new scenario... Good news is it drives. Bad news is it drives like crapp.... not that this isn't to be expected considering it just got back rolling tonight but still- the frustration continues.
Here are my thoughts:
1.) I didn't have the heart to pull it out and look but the speedo didn't register when I drove it to the end of the driveway and back. I changed the Speedo gear to the new tire size when I was rebuilding the t-case so I am thinking I didn't get it engaged properly when I popped it back in. My concern is that bad boy is a $100 piece of plastic so i'm hoping that i didn't shear the teeth off on my little 50 yd adventure but given how things have gone thus far- that kind of luck seems optimistic at best. We'll find out.
2.) She won't go into 2,4 ( i didn't try 6th in my driveway but I think it's a safe bet the bottom gears arent engaging as a whole. I'm thinking the culprit is interference with the tub from the t-case lower kit and since my driveline angle is WAY better than I thought it would be I believe I am just going to tear that bad boy off and raise the drivetrain back up and see if that helps... I'm betting it will. It's hideous anyhow so I'm hoping this works.
3.) the rear end feels looser than Courtney Love's pharmacist... it actually feels like it's moving laterally... which I don't get considering I didn't really change much in the geometry back there but it certainly isn't dialed in yet. I'm not running a rear sway bar- but I wasn't before either and it drove perfectly.
I'm going to bed... I'm pretty defeated for the day- time to get some rest and get ready to try and start figuring things out tomorrow. I'll post pics then it is isn't pouring down rain still.
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
So the speedo gear was fine. It took some wigglin and wogglin to actually get it to engage but it's in and working. It's wierd to have a Speedo that works properly- I've been 5-10 mph off for years now.
Just as I thought the issue with the transmission not engaging was the T-case drop. That's gone now (hooray- cause it was UGLY) and the transmission hits all 7 gears just fine.
Drove it up to Thomasville and back and it's ok, the biggest thing is that the rear tires aren't balanced yet and the combination of an unbalanced 40" tire bouncing around and no rear shocks is a no-no. Still, (just because I'm not too totally confident in my abilities at this point, I literally have not had a hand of help in the garage, and i don't want to destroy a 3k rear end because of a stupid "whoops") I am going to take it up to my friend Dave's shop and leave it this week for him to burn on a couple shock tabs for me (the 110 fluxcore welder just wasn't hanging with the 3/8" plate tabs and those axles) and sort of check through everything... just to kind of have a second set of eyes on it. I think we're nearing the finish line for stage 1!
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
So I don't think that two of the 9.00R 20s are going to work out. Two were new, and two were re-treads; neither of the re-treads will balance. SO.... I think I am going to order 2 Xterrian procomp 40" tires for a 20" rim and put them on. I think I actually can clear them on the front with these spacers, and later with the 60 up front, when it's finished. So... wasted a little money there I suppose :-(
The big box boys over at 4WD have them for $389 a tire and since they own Procomp that may be the best I can find, but does anyone know of anything better out there? OR I'm not neccesarily married to that tire, just keep in mind my goal here is to run a radial road set and a nasty Bias set on beads for off road use once I have 4wd again so don't go recommending IROKS or Rockers... I know they're sweet and I likely will be running a 42" set of one of the two when the time comes but hooking the front axle into the T-case really needs to come first.
The big box boys over at 4WD have them for $389 a tire and since they own Procomp that may be the best I can find, but does anyone know of anything better out there? OR I'm not neccesarily married to that tire, just keep in mind my goal here is to run a radial road set and a nasty Bias set on beads for off road use once I have 4wd again so don't go recommending IROKS or Rockers... I know they're sweet and I likely will be running a 42" set of one of the two when the time comes but hooking the front axle into the T-case really needs to come first.
BigFish
I came here to leave...
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2007
- Location
- Oakboro, NC
Long way from home today?
Passed the jeep about 8:00am outside of concord on 601...
I don't think there are too many blacked out LJs around on 9.00r20s and rockstars around here. Looked like a beast.
Passed the jeep about 8:00am outside of concord on 601...
I don't think there are too many blacked out LJs around on 9.00r20s and rockstars around here. Looked like a beast.
Bryan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2006
- Location
- Wilmington NC
This is going to be nice, I wish I had started with an LJ platform.
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
Nothing groundbreaking but we pulled the axles, sand blasted them, and are painting them this week. While we had everything off I went ahead and rebuild the Johnny joints, installed new Zerks and painted the control arms as well. A few Utah winters had some rather obvious effects on all this stuff and it was a good time to get it restored. Here are some pics:
Also got the two procomps bounted and balanced. Not really my kind of tire but looking selection is limited in the 40" AT catergory.
Also got the two procomps bounted and balanced. Not really my kind of tire but looking selection is limited in the 40" AT catergory.
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
Sorry forgot to load these... Got the arms painted
and the axle finished painted
And all the other stuff
Made a bracket for the brake line rear junction
And got it and the bracket in and the new rear tires on.
Stage 1 is officially done.
Sent from my DROIDX
and the axle finished painted
And all the other stuff
Made a bracket for the brake line rear junction
And got it and the bracket in and the new rear tires on.
Stage 1 is officially done.
Sent from my DROIDX
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
Selling my motor and trans for $2500 Full assembly- 4.0L and 6 speed manual
Here is a quick walkaround of the motor as of this morning. No codes, runs great cranks on the first turn etc... no leaks.
Here is a quick walkaround of the motor as of this morning. No codes, runs great cranks on the first turn etc... no leaks.
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
That one didn't seem to work right... try this one http://www.youtube.com/embed/zsrJaS5mG-s
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
Ordered 140' of 1.75" OD DOM (cage and tire carrier) and 40' of 1.25" OD DOM (seat tie ins and ORI hoops) for the cage this week... Continuing to assemble expensive pieces 
Ran some numbers tonight and I'm very happy with what my numbers are going to look like with the new drivetrain:
Thanks to the Grim Jeeper for the great tool!
Really wanted a killer set of Recaro's I found on CL but just can't justify the coin when I have so many moving parts I "need" first... I guess my rear will have to tolerate stock seats a bit longer.
Got 5 TW beadlocks ordered to mount up the 42" Pitbulls Rockers... REALLY looking forward to seeing the UPS guy now! (Thanks Dookey and YJ for making such a killer product). All in all though- basically just spending money and taking care of little things for the time being.
Ran some numbers tonight and I'm very happy with what my numbers are going to look like with the new drivetrain:
Thanks to the Grim Jeeper for the great tool!
Really wanted a killer set of Recaro's I found on CL but just can't justify the coin when I have so many moving parts I "need" first... I guess my rear will have to tolerate stock seats a bit longer.
Got 5 TW beadlocks ordered to mount up the 42" Pitbulls Rockers... REALLY looking forward to seeing the UPS guy now! (Thanks Dookey and YJ for making such a killer product). All in all though- basically just spending money and taking care of little things for the time being.
bbbcb04
Active Member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2009
- Location
- thomasville
been watching your build online and riding by your house and really like your progress .keep up the good work maybe next time i see you outside and the jeep is there i will stop and introduce myself and check it out .
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
No need to wait for that. My wife and I haven't lived here long so I would love to meet more of the local wheelers. Shoot me an email and I'll meet you at the corner bar for a beer. Once this thing is done I'm gonna need local friends lo wheel it with! That is the point right? LOL
Bimmer9938
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2009
- Location
- Raleigh / Durham
Looks great, is that a CJ7 tailgate?
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
It sure is. You have a Bimmer as well. I have a 7.
Bimmer9938
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2009
- Location
- Raleigh / Durham
I have had 11 BMW's, currently Bimmer-less. I've owned everything from an authentic Hamann widebody 330ci, to an M3 to X5's... I love them.
VecoPlan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Location
- High Point, NC
mail time
mail time
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In other news: I believe I am going to order a set of these Artec arms... he has everything I believe I am looking for- good Ackerman angle, I can set my tie-in height between the upper and lower arm, set up for Reid racing knuckles, pre-drilled/milled for ARP studs, I can hook the drag link and Tie Rod directly to the knuckle and Nate picks up the phone when you call (I suppose a matching price tag to all of these niceties should be mentioned but wth.... I spoke to Nate (owner) for quite some time and given the quality and work he obviously has put into these I think I can justify it. Still...I should have collected stamps for a hobby.
mail time
mail time
mail time
In other news: I believe I am going to order a set of these Artec arms... he has everything I believe I am looking for- good Ackerman angle, I can set my tie-in height between the upper and lower arm, set up for Reid racing knuckles, pre-drilled/milled for ARP studs, I can hook the drag link and Tie Rod directly to the knuckle and Nate picks up the phone when you call (I suppose a matching price tag to all of these niceties should be mentioned but wth...
. I spoke to Nate (owner) for quite some time and given the quality and work he obviously has put into these I think I can justify it. Still...I should have collected stamps for a hobby.