Anyone pulled a well pump?

Welp, not so lucky. I appears there is a cut in the wire somewhere between the breaker box and pump house. Still shorting out with no draw on it. Get to start digging in the morning. At least it will be cold and windy :cool:
Short term run new wire above ground in conduit then dig and drop.
 
Related question, I've noticed in the past week or so my water pressure surging. Whether it's the sink or shower it surges literally every few seconds in what I believe is the pump coming on and off way too frequently than I remember. Also, the way my standard water filter is plumbed under the house you have always been able to hear it rock back and forth with the sudden pressure change whenever the well comes on which again is every few seconds when the water is running.
Anyone have this issue before? Don't know if it's a pressure switch issue or tank? Anything I can check to eliminate either one?
When mine started that, it was the pressure tank. That was the main reason I needed up redoing my whole set up. I went went a bigger tank as well to reduce pump cycles. If you end up replacing it, depending on how old it is, I would replace the pressure switch as well.

On a side note, I ran a temporary line to the pump this morning. 3 hrs and all still good. Off to Lowe’s to get some larger wire. The only real bitch, besides the area below the panel is the only area not in the basemen, is where I have to go under the sidewalk to the back porch. Stay tooned!
 
Well, ( pun intended) I feel better about the issue now.
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3:30pm, finally got to crawl under the house after work today and pushed in the schrader valve and it sprayed water. Managed to get a new tank from bLowes and borrow a friend's pex crimp tool and an new ring. Got it all swapped out.
Thanks to @willness33 and @89wrangler for the info, was spot on!

How critical is the air pressure in the bladder? It had a red tag that said it was precharged at 25psi but to make sure it's set to 2psi below pump cut on psi. I watched the gauge and my pump came on around 38 psi. Of course when it's full of water and the pump shuts off it's over 50psi, do I need to shut the well off and drain all the water pressure and add air to the tank to get it to 36psi?
 
3:30pm, finally got to crawl under the house after work today and pushed in the schrader valve and it sprayed water. Managed to get a new tank from bLowes and borrow a friend's pex crimp tool and an new ring. Got it all swapped out.
Thanks to @willness33 and @89wrangler for the info, was spot on!

How critical is the air pressure in the bladder? It had a red tag that said it was precharged at 25psi but to make sure it's set to 2psi below pump cut on psi. I watched the gauge and my pump came on around 38 psi. Of course when it's full of water and the pump shuts off it's over 50psi, do I need to shut the well off and drain all the water pressure and add air to the tank to get it to 36psi?
You can bring the pressure up with water pressure in the tank.
 
3:30pm, finally got to crawl under the house after work today and pushed in the schrader valve and it sprayed water. Managed to get a new tank from bLowes and borrow a friend's pex crimp tool and an new ring. Got it all swapped out.
Thanks to @willness33 and @89wrangler for the info, was spot on!

How critical is the air pressure in the bladder? It had a red tag that said it was precharged at 25psi but to make sure it's set to 2psi below pump cut on psi. I watched the gauge and my pump came on around 38 psi. Of course when it's full of water and the pump shuts off it's over 50psi, do I need to shut the well off and drain all the water pressure and add air to the tank to get it to 36psi?
Sounds like you’ve got a 40/60 switch someone has adjusted down. I’d put 10psi in the tank and let her go.
 
I was just gonna say that something is off on the presets or the gauge is off. Either way, add pressure, run it a few cycles to make sure it's "smooth" and walk away.
 
If you “tune” the 2 adjusters on the pressure switch it changes the on/off pressures inside a certain range. Mine is a 40/60 that is now a 40/50. With a 50 gallon pressure tank it seems to work the best for pressure and pump cycling.
 
mine is 30/50 and I have mine set at 28 psi for what it’s worth.

Picked up 250‘ of 10ga in ground wire this evening as @Silverado_Express says, at bLowes..lol I figured while I was burying wire, pulling under sidewalk, pulling in to breaker box, I may as well run a line to the camper shed so I could at least plug it in the 30amp when needed to keep batteries charged. Anyway wired was 1.50 a foot, buy 250’ is was .75 ft which is why I decided to run camper line. Long story short, after register rang up wrong price, between cashier and manger being confusee about why it would not ring up correctly, I left there with a price of .35 a foot :laughing: using Lowe’s card, got another 5% off. reciepts said I saved $288! Not too bad.
 
If you “tune” the 2 adjusters on the pressure switch it changes the on/off pressures inside a certain range. Mine is a 40/60 that is now a 40/50. With a 50 gallon pressure tank it seems to work the best for pressure and pump cycling.
I run a 30/50 at factory settings. My pressure tank is maybe a 20 or 25 gal cause that's all I have room for in the well house. I wish I could go bigger. I don't trust 60psi in my 1974 plumbing lol.
 
That’s why I bumped mine down to 50. It also helps to get water in the 1” line out to the barn and the second pressure tank I have out there (25 gallon horizontal) my big tank in the pump house is vertical but my well house is dug into the ground about 24”View attachment 336001View attachment 336002
I would love to know the first guys thought process behind putting half his pumphouse below grade in a dry stacked brick box.
 
I would love to know the first guys thought process behind putting half his pumphouse below grade in a dry stacked brick box.
Yeah I’m not sure. When we first moved here it was a concrete cylinder type surround with a concrete lid that was sunk in the ground about 4 inches. The top of the casing is only about 6 inches above grade. The first pressure tank exploded because it was buried by an idiot (before we purchased) it filled the whole cylinder thing with water. I dug it all out, lined it with brick and built the wood pump house that’s there now. All of the plumbing just worked easier that way and at the time I was in a hurry to get water back flowing to the house. Probably not the best design but it has never had water down in the hole ever since I “redesigned” it.
 
Got it all wrapped up today. New wire from box to well house, new breaker, all good! Have the RV line ran to pump house, still have 100 more feet to shed. Going to rent small trencher next week for that. Shoveling sucks!
thanks for all the suggestions on pulling the pump. I am sure they will come in handy down the road for sure.
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My helper, Rubi. 7 1/2 month old Boxador.
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Back to the top.
I will be pulling the pump to replace it now. I think I have a plan to pull it (305') providing it is the black water line. If it is PVC pipe, I may have to figure a plan B. It has a 30/50 cutoff switch, when the pressure drops down to 30 and the pump kicks on, my pressure drops to 0 for approx. 10-12 seconds, then recovers and pumps up to 50 psi. The delay in water was for 3 seconds, then 8, now it is 12. From my research, it could be the check valve at the base of the pump letting all the water fall back down in well or maybe it is the pump. The pump appears to be 34 years old as it was installed in 1988 and according to my neighbor, who was brother in law to who I bought the house from in 2003, said they never had it replaced. My dilemma now it it what size pump to use? Researching this, the more I read the more confusing it is. HP vs depth vs GPM should all be factored in. I assumed a 1 hp and call it a day, but now I have no clue. If there is anyone who can offer any light on the subject, I am all ears. I am planning this for next weekend if it makes it and I want to have everything I need in hand prior to pulling so I am not without water all weekend. Thanks!

I have also left two messages with local well folks to try and get an estimate and got no reply from one, the other said we will call you back but never did. I know the estimate will be stupid high, but hoping I can also get some pump info/recommendation.
 
My parents had a nearly identical issue last year. Dumbasses at the well company came out and replaced the pump. Charged a $700 pump pulling fee, plus a grand or whatever for the pump. Then put everything back together, still had the same problem, and they said "oh, need to replace the check valve. That'll be another $700 pump pull fee"
:kaioken:

If they had a house, I would have burned it down.
 
Change your pressure tank first. Sounds like you have a leak in the bladder. If you had a bad check valve, your pump would constantly be cycling. If you had a bad pump, you wouldn't have any water.
 
Post a pic of your tank/switch setup. If the pressure switch uses a sense line, sometimes they will get half clogged with sand or scale and not let the water pressure off the switch quick enough. Causes a similar issue to yours.
 
Post a pic of your tank/switch setup. If the pressure switch uses a sense line, sometimes they will get half clogged with sand or scale and not let the water pressure off the switch quick enough. Causes a similar issue to yours.
Pic in post #43 above of the set up. Switch in tapped in the main line. I replaced the tank back on 2021, but will check it to make sure it is good. Thanks for the comments!!
 
Pic in post #43 above of the set up. Switch in tapped in the main line. I replaced the tank back on 2021, but will check it to make sure it is good. Thanks for the comments!!
I've had new tanks fail in a few years but that just causes short cycling after the bladder is completely full of water. I've seen the foot valve fail but that was a blow thru out the side due to rust. That cause a constant run of course. Stick to everything above ground while you troubleshoot. Check the schrader valve for water on the tank. Watch a few cycles on the pressure switch. If you're getting water then your pump is OK. Wells are are as simple as an air compressor. If and only if everything above ground checks out, pull the pump and check the foot valve. 305' will be a bitch so call a friend or 2.
 
New pressure switch for the win! Took cover off to see what was happening and when pressure dropped to dropped below 30psi, the contacts would not close for 10 to 12 seconds. Once the closed, it would not open until it was about 85 psi. Ran up town and picked up a 40-60psi switch, installed it, bumped pressure tank up to 38 psi, all good now.Woo hoo! Now to see how time I have left before the pump actually does need replaced.
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