Big dookie Dodge *NEW PICS*

[77GreenMachine]

I would cancel your low range order and go with Barnes. Excellent service.


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[cheetoFTW]

Of course 5 minutes after my post they sent me a tracking number. Oh well I called Brandon at 4wheelparts here in Raleigh and hes gonna have me a set tomorrow or weds. I guess I will just have an extra pair lol.



Here's what I got done today

 

[cheetoFTW]

Front bushings on the arms are done, just need to trim the arms and weld on the Johnny joints when they get here. I'm ready to get wheeling again.

 

[cheetoFTW]

Pulled an all nighter and made some progress.

Rear shackle flip

 

[cheetoFTW]

Out with the 9.25 to make room for the Dana 70.

 

[cheetoFTW]

So I didn't take any pics of the long arms last night, but I did get the lowers fab'd up and in the truck, I still need to "y" my uppers into the lower, right now the uppers are still attached to the stock frame location.

I did roll the truck our into the middle of the shop to see how its sitting. Not bad,

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

what size tires are you planning to run? I was planning to push the front axle forward a few inches with the long arm swap, to get the tire centered in the wheel well.

 

[cheetoFTW]

Going to run 37s or 38s. I actually made the arms 2" longer, but the axle is castered back right now because of the stock uppers. Once I do those it will roll forward a good bit.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Looks good! Just need to move that rear axle back some!

 

[Lee]

what size tires are you planning to run? I was planning to push the front axle forward a few inches with the long arm swap, to get the tire centered in the wheel well.

Have to be careful on how far forward you go, my trackbar bracket hits the front diff on full stuff

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[cheetoFTW]

Finished the bars today, installed the new upper control arms.

 

[cheetoFTW]

Looks good! Just need to move that rear axle back some!

I used an ORD zero rate and moved it back an inch already. What should I do to get it further back?

 

[ORV design and fab]

The upper CA look like tractor links? I hope not.

 

[cheetoFTW]

The upper CA look like tractor links? I hope not.

They are, my buddy used them on his mud truck. After seeing the abuse he put them through I will try them. I don't plan on doing any highway driving, especially with out putting it through its paces. I'm sure I will end up making a better set.

 

[77GreenMachine]

Are the brackets bolted and welded to the frame or just bolted?


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[ORV design and fab]

They are, my buddy used them on his mud truck. After seeing the abuse he put them through I will try them. I don't plan on doing any highway driving, especially with out putting it through its paces. I'm sure I will end up making a better set.

We have a guy that runs them, he has speed wobble, so it's cheap to do upper ca and not worry about it,

 

[Croatan_Kid]

There's a 1.5" hole on the zero rates as well. Past that, you would probably have to use a different rear spring with the centering pin farther back or move a spring hanger. I'd probably just move it to the 1.5" hole and leave it lol. The amount of work vs. aggravation to move it would stop me right there.

 

[cheetoFTW]

Are the brackets bolted and welded to the frame or just bolted?


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• They are just bolted at the moment, once I have the 60 in I'm going to make sure everything is square in the front and weld them as well. I got a little happy and painted them too soon lol.

 

[cheetoFTW]

There's a 1.5" hole on the zero rates as well.

You're right it's 1.5", that's the holes I used.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

If that's as far back as it'll go...screw it. I'd leave it!

 

[cheetoFTW]

So I kinda did some ghetto shit to make the rear driveshaft work. The original 9.25 yoke is 29 spline, the Dana 70 pinion is 29 spline.....however the 70 pinion diameter is literally .040 larger than the 9.25. I took a small stone and honed out the 9.25 yoke. I took a small portion on the tip of the splines off, then would test itnon the 70 pinion. I wish I had taken pictures of the process. After the second light hone I was able to work the yoke about half way done the pinion by hand. I could see the splines were lined up perfectly. Then I sent it home with some air.

I had to use a bolt on puller to get it back off, but it came off with minimal effort.

The outside diameter of the 9.25 yoke was slightly smaller and the old pinion seal( which was in fairly good condition) didn't not contact the yoke. I replaced it with a new OEM 70 seal and it had enough inward seal to nicely seal to the 9.25 yoke.

I am able to run the stock driveshaft with the ORD zero rates moving the reaxle axle back 1.5". The front u joint is a little tight at full drop, soni think I might end up dropping the transfer case down a bit.

I understand that this may have not be the "proper" way to solve this issue, but as of right now it works, and I can carry a stock $20 junk yard rear driveshaft as a quick change spare.

 

[cheetoFTW]

Here are some pics of the 70 yoke on the 9.25". It literally slides on and there is no play. These to have not been modified at all.

I know that I have just created a weak link in the driveline by running the smaller u joint from the 1500 driveshaft, but that may not be a bad thing. It's easier and cheaper to replace a u joint than axles or diff innards lol.

 

[cheetoFTW]

At it all night once again. Pretty much done.
Dana 60 is in, winch is mounted inside the front bumper. Just need to bleed the brakes and align it.

 

[tkeaton]

Are the bolts holding the links to the frame large enough?

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

have you cycled the suspension? I cant tell from the picture but I believe there needs to be a bushing at one of the axle mounts to keep it from binding too much?