Big dookie Dodge *NEW PICS*

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paradisePWoffrd said:
have you cycled the suspension? I cant tell from the picture but I believe there needs to be a bushing at one of the axle mounts to keep it from binding too much?
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Jacked up each corner with my floor jack as far as it would go up, everything moved smoothly.

If you are talking about where the lower control arm bolts to the axle then yes there is a urethane bushing on that end and the Johnny joint at the rear.

Once. Get the breaks blead I will pull it onto the arm of the lift and try to make it flex more.
 
if there is a bushing at the axle end of the lower, I think you will be fine. As the suspension flexes, it is trying to twist the axle. You must have something in there that allows some flexibility to reduce the stress on the mounts/arms.
 
I took it out of the shop today and put it in the ditch out front of the shop. It flexed out pretty well. Still have some work to do on the steering linkage, sway bar disco's, and bigger tires.
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I think my brother got some pics of me in the deep ditch, I will try to post them tomorrow.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
As the suspension flexes, it is trying to twist the axle.
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Maybe you (or anyone else with more knowledge than I) can shed some light on this......I was told by the Jeep Gods on the Jeep forum that unless you cycle the suspension without the springs, you aren't really cycling your suspension for conflicts.

My first reaction was : "When the next time I go wheeling without my springs, I'll be sure to check ;)"

Because I couldn't wrap my head around HOW my suspension could compress lower than the fully compressed length of the coil?!?! (and bump-stop hits long before coil reached full compression)

But maybe I'm missing something
 
CasterTroy said:
Maybe you (or anyone else with more knowledge than I) can shed some light on this......I was told by the Jeep Gods on the Jeep forum that unless you cycle the suspension without the springs, you aren't really cycling your suspension for conflicts.

My first reaction was : "When the next time I go wheeling without my springs, I'll be sure to check ;)"

Because I couldn't wrap my head around HOW my suspension could compress lower than the fully compressed length of the coil?!?! (and bump-stop hits long before coil reached full compression)

But maybe I'm missing something
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The only advantage to cycling without coils, is they aren't there to limit movement. This is only advantageous when trying to find limitations of the suspension to understand where you might need to add bumps or limit straps. In your example, the suspension cant compress at/between the coils more than the coil itself. The coil typically creates a pivot point, so you can get more travel outboard the springs, than you can at the spring.
 
Bout to the same basic build. I have a 94 1500. I have the dodge 60 for the front an going to do a disc brake 14bolt. It will be on 37 also. What springs are you running. I want to keep it as low as I can. Cutting it is in the plan. It will be a dd/wheeler. Truck had 3/4 ton rear springs on it when I got it. I would like a progressive rate spring for the front. Been looking at D.O.R long arms, steering,an shackle flip(with zero rates to). Thinking of gearing it 5.38. If I figured it right. The final drive with that gear an 37 at 70mph. I should be around 2500rpm's. Any input would be welcomed.
 
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