Budgetary quote for regear...

Jeffncs

Jeffncs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2017
Location
Wake Forest
I’m getting some time driving my 82 CJ7 and am finding the axle gearing is way too tall for the 33s on this thing.

5th gear is worthless and 4th is borderline useless. I have to check, but think the Jeep has 3.03s right now. Considering 3.55 or 3.73 for around town and minimal highway driving.

From a budgetary angle, what would I be looking at to regear the front and rear differentials? I know it won’t be cheap, but how expensive will it be?

while I’m at it... any local shops in Wake Forest or north Raleigh that’s recommended?

anyone do this work on the side that you’d recommend?
 
Ok. Thabks for the recommendation. 4.10 wouldn’t send the RPM through the roof at highway speeds would it? I was leaning towards 3.73 with that in mind.
 
3.73s are roughly a 20% increase in torque and RPM. 4.10s are roughly a 30% increase. Either will be an improvement. If you ever plan on going off-road or increasing tire size, I'd go with 4.10s. If you're doing a lot of highway miles, 3.73s.
 
I know my tire size is different, but I’ve got 285’s on a 17” rim with 3.55’s. Even with 3.55’s it seems long legged. I’m going 4.10’s as soon as I get some change. I’m running around 2000 rpm or less at 60 mph with the 3.55’s if that helps. There’s plenty of online gear calculators to put in your tire size and gear ratio to give you an idea of what rpm you’ll be running at speed.
 
rodney eppes said:
I second that. Was going to say, 4.10 is a more common Jeep gear, & should be optimum for 33s. I ran 33s for Years on my CJ, with factory 3.54 gears. But I got the 304 V8, & T-18 tranny. Even then, it was a touch "high gear" for 33s.
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Momentary hijack - how'd you like that setup (304 +T18)? I have a 304/t176 in my scrambler and 4.0/t18a in my CJ7. Wondering if it'd be better to run the t18 behind the 304.
 
Thanks guys... any guesses on labor? Parts for front and rear (ring/pinion, install kits and a true trac for rear only) are running around $1500. Am I looking at $250/differential or $500 per? Guesses are fine since I’m not going to have the cash any time soon...

anyone do it on the side around Wake county want some pocket cash?
 
Mac5005 said:
I’d say 4.10s that way you won’t think about rehearing if you decide to step up to 35’s.

Just call east coast gear supply and get an accurate quote on it.
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I never ran anything other than the 3.54, before finally going to 35 s. At that point, I had 4.56 installed, & it's fine on the road! I don't think 4.10 would be proper with 35s. My first CJ, was a 72 model, 258 6 cly, & T-18. 3.73 gears & I ran 33s. Pulled ok once you got rolling, but from dead stops, you either used the granny to rotate a tire, or rode the clutch a might, using second. Just my experiences.
 
adman02 said:
Momentary hijack - how'd you like that setup (304 +T18)? I have a 304/t176 in my scrambler and 4.0/t18a in my CJ7. Wondering if it'd be better to run the t18 behind the 304.
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If you off road much, I'd say so, just to get the granny gear. There were a couple first gear choices, but most factory 6 cylinders, used the 6.32 [I think it is] Granny gear. Some T-18 [Ford?] have a 5 something. I've also got the 3.15/1 Terra gears, in the D 20.
 
Jeffncs said:
Thanks guys... any guesses on labor? Parts for front and rear (ring/pinion, install kits and a true trac for rear only) are running around $1500. Am I looking at $250/differential or $500 per? Guesses are fine since I’m not going to have the cash any time soon...

anyone do it on the side around Wake county want some pocket cash?
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Are you Sure you want a True Trac? It's Not a full locker, like the Detroit is. I've had experience with 3 Detroit's, & satisfied with them. When I went for a front locker, & wanted a selectable, & chose the Eaton's E. Locker [electric]. If your doing moderate to hard off roading, Lockers are the way to go, least in the rear. Selectable lockers on both ends, is Top choice! Expensive, yes. But they'll make you Happy!
 
rodney eppes said:
Are you Sure you want a True Trac? It's Not a full locker, like the Detroit is. I've had experience with 3 Detroit's, & satisfied with them. When I went for a front locker, & wanted a selectable, & chose the Eaton's E. Locker [electric]. If your doing moderate to hard off roading, Lockers are the way to go, least in the rear. Selectable lockers on both ends, is Top choice! Expensive, yes. But they'll make you Happy!
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Good question... This Jeep is going to spend 80% of its life getting ice cream with the kids. The other 20% may be wandering around forest roads or on a Jamboree. I’m familiar with lockers and def do not want a locker for this Jeep. I view the true teak as a compromise between open diffs and a traction device.
 
Jeffncs said:
Thanks guys... any guesses on labor? Parts for front and rear (ring/pinion, install kits and a true trac for rear only) are running around $1500. Am I looking at $250/differential or $500 per? Guesses are fine since I’m not going to have the cash any time soon...

anyone do it on the side around Wake county want some pocket cash?
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Have you not called the company listed in the first reply yet? ECGS will do a great job and is very close to you. One call takes any guessing out of the cost.
 
I'm not going to volunteer anybody, but I got a quote from one of our vendors to regear F/R for less than your parts budget. Granted, that only included gears, install parts, and labor (no carrier change), and would require me taking the parts to WNC. But he's a good dude, so I'd probably make the drive.
 
shawn said:
I'm not going to volunteer anybody, but I got a quote from one of our vendors to regear F/R for less than your parts budget. Granted, that only included gears, install parts, and labor (no carrier change), and would require me taking the parts to WNC. But he's a good dude, so I'd probably make the drive.
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Just called ECGS. Ouch. I may have to sell body parts to get this done.
 
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