Buffy’s Shop and Bar and Grill build

Buffy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2010
Location
Burlington, NC
So I’ve been working on this since the summer and figured I’d share. Overall building is 30 x 60 which is the largest footprint I could get away with while dealing with an HOA. Inside we framed up 2 rooms. One for the wife’s stained glass studio and one for my bar/man land. Then of course there is the shop area. It’s got a bathroom and both rooms will be climate controlled. Going with a mini split system there. The building is up and plumbing rough in is compete. This brings us to my issue with the building company. The install crew and I had a “language” barrier and they neglected to seal the base plate as I was charged. Sad you have to pay extra to ensure your brand new build is water tight. So now we’re fighting with the company to get this resolved before moving too much further.

Now the fun stuff, pictures!
 

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here’s my framing package and the start of the building setup
 

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After the first big rain is when we started seeing water where it shouldn’t be. Still in a holding pattern with the building company. I went through Grizzly Buildings but behind the scenes it’s Carolina Buildings and carports. And let me tell you the people I’ve dealt with there have been the biggest bitches I’ve ever seen. I was told my concrete had to be ABSOLUTELY perfectly level or they wouldn’t guarantee the seal, even though the installation crew didn’t install the caulking. Fun times guys.
 

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Couple questions. Seal the base plate? What does that entail? I'd like a bathroom in my shop if I ever got to build it. Is the black round object the "septic tank? I assume the drain field is the single pipe running off it. As for the framing for the inside rooms. Are the base plates attached with anchors to the slab? Looks like it will be a nice space!
 
ghost said:
Couple questions. Seal the base plate? What does that entail? I'd like a bathroom in my shop if I ever got to build it. Is the black round object the "septic tank? I assume the drain field is the single pipe running off it. As for the framing for the inside rooms. Are the base plates attached with anchors to the slab? Looks like it will be a nice space!
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Probably a macerating lift pump - what I did on mine. Pumps to existing city sewer.
 
The base plate seal was supposed be like tube caulking to be put down below the metal bas plate. Then there is a special or extended lip that goes about 2 inches below the concrete floor. Each of these options are considered upgrades of over $600 each.

The round black piece is a grinder/pump. The department of health requires I send everything back to my existing system and let it flow there.
 
Buffy said:
The other fun note is I ran CAT 6 cable from the house so I can piggyback off my internet and TV. All the comforts of home. :smokin:
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This is something I need to do for my shop. I even have the cable sitting there on the workbench, ready to go. Just like it will be in 2025 :laughing:
 
I have fixed a couple of these. The only way you will get a metal building to not have water come under the sill is to not have concrete go outside past it. If you have to then it needs to have a decent slope away from the building, otherwise it doesn't matter how you seal it water will come in.

Looks like a great layout though, are you going to install a lift?
 
There is lots of fall from my building. I will get some pictures of the back of the building. The bottom piece of siding goes about 2 inches down the concrete which is supposed to help prevent water from getting in. I’ve been calling Grizzly all week but this far have been being ignored. Will step up my tone next week. In other words become a raging asshole with attorney in tow.

I currently have 2 9k lifts at my rented shop space and a massive 3 phase air compressor. I doubt I will keep the air compressor as I don’t want to deal with 3 phase power. On the fence with keeping both lifts. One is definitely coming with me.
 
Is your apron below the finished floor elevation of the building?

1705079074058.png
 
Gutters are on the to do list. Had an electrician come by today to give me a quote on wiring the building. I am crossing my fingers it’s reasonable. The first company came back with a bid of almost $50k. :eek:
 
Electricians are expensive, no way around it.
 
I’m glad I got a cousin that’s an electrician.
 
The last electrical estimate was $33K. Since then I’ve found someone who will work with me to get it wired. Spoke with the inspector here, who is super nice and informative, got lots of pointers. Will have some pictures when we get to that point.

Building company sent someone out to “fix” my leak. This consisted of some guys with tube caulk running beads on the inside of the base plate. The problem with caulking the inside is they are not stopping the water from getting into the building! They flipped my door to be “correct” but now it swings the wrong way, which is probably why it was installed upside down to begin with. I did speak with their HQ and was told in no certain terms that I had modified the build and the leaks are on me. So the argument is does adding framing inside the base plate constitute modifying the building. Bottom line is I explained up front the project and it had to be water tight only now do they say it’s an issue. After watching them flip the door, and f’ing up the trim, the quickest and easiest fix is to send a crew out and remove the bottom piece of siding and caulk the baseplate from the outside. Would probably take half a day. :kaioken:
 
Caulk is a poor choice for your first line of defense. Ideally, there's a mechanical (flashing) separation that gets 99% of the water out from behind the wall. If you're not careful about where the sealant goes, you can create water dams and make the problem worse.
 
shawn said:
Caulk is a poor choice for your first line of defense. Ideally, there's a mechanical (flashing) separation that gets 99% of the water out from behind the wall. If you're not careful about where the sealant goes, you can create water dams and make the problem worse.
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Yes sir, totally agree. Even spring for the extended siding panels. Still getting water in.
 
Buffy said:
Even spring for the extended siding panels.
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If the siding is overhanging the slab, water is getting in somewhere else. Without seeing how the slab edge was constructed and how the wall went up, I couldn't say one way or the other. Maybe leaking through the screw holes...?
 
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