Discussion in 'Tow Rigs and Trailers' started by Jody Treadway, Dec 8, 2018.
Damn. That's just my luck
They build a darn good structural trailer.
Open ended posts are open ended. Is there a Part deux to your reply buddy?
If it's not built from an old mobile home then it's not a real trailer....just sayin.
Im pretty sure hes saying the wiring will be le shittay like every other trailer out there.
I would agree with this. That was my one gripe with this trailer, the wiring. It works and hasn't failed me yet so I haven't done anything about it, but it isn't loomed or well protected, no sealed connections etc. Easy enough to remedy, so wasn't a big deal for me.
I pretty much budget re-wiring most any trailer myself at some point.
I'll just leave this here....
I plan to add some touches to this one once I get it here. I'll paint the deck to protect the wood once the lumber dries. I mean, all lumber pretty much crap these days.
Some rear outriggers for loading unhooked, rewire with a junction block and of course a new #BTL decal.
thats some shitty wire.
and why would you run 16 AWG for lights?
This is my preferred option for light wiring:
18/6 SOOW Portable Cord 600V UL/CSA
I run the brakes separately.
Also a stick of 1/2 ET is like $3. 2 Hole strap it to the underside and your rear lights are good forever. Even scotch locks can be used if the inbstaller knows what the f he is doing, though I prefer not to ever see them.
That's great wire for the application.
It comes in whatever gauge is suitable for the application. LED lights are pretty low on ampacity, but I might opt for 14ga just for the workability, and for keeping everything in the same size terminals. SOOW is good for the pigtail, but a pain for general lighting, since all the conductors don't go to the same spots.
1/2" EMT will only fit a few 12-16 ga conductors. Six definitely don't fit, and nothing SOOW will fit. If you go that route, buy 3/4" or 1".
Not getting in the middle of this , BUT...
The absolute best thing I've done was to totally rewire my trailer!
Yanked 100% of the previous factory (Hudson Bros... "No thanks, we're trying to cutdown... MMmm") hack job
*Everything* is run inside PVC conduit (3/4"-1") strapped to underside, pull boxes/LB glued at each secondary point w/ silicone inside/out where the Ancor marine tinned wire (appropriate gauge/color coded) + dedicated ground (1 for lights/1 for brakes), those uber slick crimp connectors (with goo & heatshrink), new pigtail & junction box and rounded out with all LEDs. Everything fused , dedicated deepcycle for the winch and cheap (but very bright) LED work and BACKUP lights.
After 12-13 years of having to fawk with something EVERY_TIME_OUT... it feels so good to hookup, do a quick check and *EVERYTHING* works without spending 30+ minutes going thru scotchlocks/jiggling wires
And those backup lights (wired to fire from truck when in Reverse or manually) are the !
I struggle with having a trailer "custom built" if you will, and still having to rewire it when you get it home. Why do they not offer SOMETHING of an upgrade to wire it "proper" like?!?!
Because their idea of “premium upgraded wiring” is adding electrical tape wrapped around butt splices.
Well, you have a valid point. Many folks, myself included, aren't really too picky. Once there is an issue, I will however at that time rewire the whole thing.
Some people (ahem @shawn, @Ron and others) are way more "attentive" than I.
My trailer has turdrific factory wiring. Bought it used. Had it for 10+ years. Lights and brakes still work just like they should. Once it becomes a problem ill fix it, but i see no reason to change the thing that is working exactly how it should.
Nah, I wired the trailer that I built from scratch. On the others, it's either just been a question of adding things (backup lights), or fixing stuff that was broken. Most of the wiring on those is factory. So long as it works, fuck it.
Oh I get it!
But it was only after my own trailer experienced a trailer brake wire rubbing itself into a short on the way back from Potts last year. I then rewired my own trailer. But, just seems like a company that small would accommodate a request like that. But maybe Rob's right about them as well (special wiring package)
Kaufman puts a "premium" wiring kit on theirs, but it's just a modular kit that they buy and put on. It has shortcomings, they're just different ones.
I rewired my trailer. The brakes were weak as hell until I ran new wire for them also redid all the connections with solder and shrink sleeves. Stops on a dime now. Requires much lower gain on the controller to get the same braking effect.
My sons just bought a 26’ Kaufman and has had to rewire just about all of it. Sounds like you ready have it ordered. I was going to refer you to a friend who builds an awesome relief to your specs.
I like running more than one wire, too. Run a wire for the left side and one for the right, or one for the front axle and one for the rear.
Also, check out the heat shrink crimps with adhesive built in. Solder joints have a stress riser at the edge of the solder joint. The copper will fatigue and break there if it's allowed to move. That's not an issue with a mechanical splice. They're faster to install, too.
I’d venture to say that 99.9% of the guys building trailers are not electricians or have ever been trained on how to wire something correctly or even know the proper materials to use. Not saying that they can’t do it and make a light do what they want or electric brakes function. They just do enough to get them out the door and past the warranty period as cheap as possible.
I'm hoping the wiring on my Kaufman lasts a long time. It looks pretty good for a somewhat mass produced trailer.
I guess I'll just stick with my 25 year old Bette trailer that still has the original wiring other than new tail lights replaced about three times.