Buggy Trailer

kc4x4

kc4x4

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Location
Asheboro NC
Going to Moab labor day week. DON'T !!!! want to haul the gooseneck that far. So since I tow the buggy more than any thing else I want a buggy trailer. Talked to KRAFTSMAN locally and they can build me a custom trailer. Got a price and a design. (my design with there input) $2575. Single axle, (yes I said single axle) Dual wheels with radial tires. 9' with 2' dovetail, Drop leg jack on front, Brakes with breakaway box, HD D rings, LED tail and side marker lights, Floor with Diamond plate or heavy expanded metal, open center painted any color.

kinda like these but not exactly

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470148o

Talked to Kaufman and Southern Alamance Trailer but no quotes from them yet. Will post price when I get them. KC

Why single axle? Lighter and easier to pull! (Moab remember) No tire scrub when turning.
Why duals ? Safety in case of blowout.
Why not an open center car hauler? Had one with crushed fenders.
Lighter trailer means lighter tag weight, now that they went through the roof.

Only con is Specialized trailer only good to haul lifted 4x4s with 95" to 115" wheelbases.
 
I think its a decent price since they have to stop there production to make this. The axle itself costs more than a small trailer. A 16 foot car hauler starts at $1750 with out tie downs. They are kinda flemsy. This trailer will be built out of 2x4 thick wall tube.


They told me I could go with a 2 5/16 adjustable coupler or a pintle. Which one would you use and why.
I tow with a 2001 F350 DRW CC PSD. KC
 
I'd go with the 2 5/16. Biggest reason, less movement, less noise. A quality ball, and maintained. you won't have any issues. But the pintle would be stronger
 
not bad for a brand new off the lot price. I have been following that thread along with the other custom toter trailers.

I priced it all out to build a similer and materials would be around $1500 (not counting time etc.) when you say 'thick wall' is that 1/4" ?? based on my research of other trailers and stuff people have built for a toter, 2x4 1/8" would be a min. and 3/16 would be ideal( for my rig 4200#)

Also, I had planed to run a WD hitch which would have coupler height adjustment there..

good idea keep us updated..

-mike
 
kc4x4 said:
I think its a decent price since they have to stop there production to make this.
Click to expand...

Boy if you could organize a "group buy" of like a dozen or so and get them to drop the price that would be cool.

That (to me) is a cool as hell trailer, and wouldn't take up a ton of room back at the ponderosa
 
A bud of mine runs this type of trailer... a converted "cable trailer" that was extended just enough for the 104" WB... single axle that uses 8 lug rims & E load tires to haul his Commando (approx. 4000#). I completely agree with you on the ease or towing, lack of bind, etc., but am not sure duals would be necessary. We had J-truck (3/4ton) + another engine/tranny/TC in the bed loaded on his without any grips from the tires. The couple of times I've hauled with it, it pulls great and is much easier to back thatn a dual axle trailer.
MVC-021F.jpg
 
2 5/16" ball, without a doubt.

Sounds like a SWEET trailer..

Have them run all wiring through conduit, and as soon as you get the trailer, re-wire the damn thing. (Don't necessarily need new wire, but re-do every single connection, including grounds, and add a dedicated 12ga. ground wire to the plug.) Replace the breakaway box with one that actually CHARGES the battery (not the craptastic one they (and all the other places) sell.

The way trailers are wired makes me wanna puke. Doing the wiring + box will only cost you about $50-60 and a few hours of your time, to ensure many years of trouble-free service.
 
Rich said:
Replace the breakaway box with one that actually CHARGES the battery
Click to expand...


Splain lucy

charges the tow rig battery? or charges the buggy battery.

Sorry to hijack, but would LOVE to know more of whatta you speeka
 
Rob said:
Charges the breakaway box battery, while it's plugged into the tow vehicle.
Click to expand...


OK, sorry. Gotta realize I don't tow anything regularly, nor have a trailer. But I googled Breakaway box battery and found out WTH that is, so now I'm good

Thanks Rob

(learning more and more daily here!)
 
The 2x4 tubing will be eaither 3/16 or 1/4 wall. The dual wheels are for safety. If I have a blowout I can still drive it to get it fixed without a spare. UTAH remember.

If they build more than 1 the price goes down!!!!! Anybody interested? Got till next friday to have $1000 down.
 
I guess I'll mark KAUFMAN off the list. Can't get them to give me a quote. Kept giving me excuses why they haven't done it yet. All kinds of problems there. I think I remember a post a week or so ago about very poor customer service there.

Anybody interest in a trailer like this. Will get a better price if more than 1 built. KC
 
Have you talked to Hudson Bros.?

IMO, they are very nice folks! I bought one of their trailers 2nd hand that was 10 years old and emailed to make sure it was really theirs, etc. Within minutes, on of the brothers emailed back that is was indeed one of theirs and confirmed the GWR. I thanked him, since any tag stating the gross has been long peeled off and he actually sent me a new plate with the VIN, Mfg. date, & GWR!

All that for something they sold 10 years ago to someone other than me? That speaks pretty loud for their customer service... check'em out!
 
Hudson Brothers will not build it. Said they would look at the design around January and then may not build it then.

KAUFMAN Still SUCKS!!!
 
Kevin why don't you build it? You will not save alot of money but I know your dieing to build somthing.

Sam(slim)
 
Since the weight carring platform is mounted under the main rails I don't trust my welding skills that much. It's not that much more than I can get the materials for.

This trailer from North Carolina Trailer sales is $3505.00 Single axle 1 tire per side. 6000 GVWR.
sm_60TP.jpg
 
holy schikies... i bought a 18' dove tail with dual axles.. both with brakes and fold up ramps for $2000....

you tow with a f350 dually.. and are worried about tire scrub????? :shaking:

i could see the weight factor.. have you looked at aluminum...

but i don't see the reasoning behind spending that on a speciality trailer.. me towing my set up is about 4-6 mpg less than unloaded..
 
I think that is an ingenious design. But I'm not sure I like it. I have a 4 door short bed truck that I tow with. It is a pain in the a$$ to back a short trailer like a cooker or small boat in my driveway. I like my buddies 18'er. It takes up a lot of room but I can put it right where I need it everytime. Not to mention I cannot see a car hauler out the back glass with out a vehicle on it or the tailgate down. I kinda like the flip up equipment type ramps.

The last trip I made to URE I borrowed another friends car hauler. Its a bit smaller, 14-16', and much harder to back with my truck. I don't know if it is axle placement or what. Also with car hauler type I didn't figure I needed to use the ramps to load since the dove tail was only 18" high. Wrong, my fat rig picked the rear tires of my 1/2 ton Dodge up and slid the truck and trailer foward. Not to good on the parking pawl.
 
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