Building a New Shop

Croatan_Kid

Croatan_Kid

How's your hammer hangin'?
Joined
Nov 4, 2007
Location
New Bern
I'm looking in to building a shop of my own sooner than later....thanks Florence. Damn whore-icane.

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While it may not be a great time to get in to doing this, I don't have much of a choice. The shop at my dad's is old and would require a good bit of work to repair, but the biggest issue is that it's not at my house.

I know I want a 40x60x16, red iron, at least two shop doors, and two man doors. I just can't decide if I want the shop doors on the long side of the building or the gable end. I will probably position the building parallel to the road, but I have plenty of room to get to the end if I decide to go that direction.

What do you guys think? Feel free to post pictures, etc. I'm even open to ideas of different layouts. It will likely have a lot of lean tos around it. I'd like to be able to park two of my trucks, my trailer, excavator, and tractor under something and out of the direct sunlight and rain.
 
Even if you put a couple doors more than you think you will need it doesn't mean you have to use them. They can be cracked for air flow or for washing out. Get doors that roll up so you don't have doors and tracks blocking ceiling area or lights.
 
Keep in mind if you put the garage doors facing the road every theif around can see what you have inside when the doors are up,esp when working at night.
 
1-tonmudder said:
Keep in mind if you put the garage doors facing the road every theif around can see what you have inside when the doors are up,esp when working at night.
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True keep the doors away from the road or behind trees or a fence.
 
I would do at least one rollup door on each gable end, this way you can open each door and get good air flow thru the shop. Add a large fan at each door for even better air flow. My shop has only one rollup door on one gable end and it has no air flow.

As mentioned, try to avoid the rollup doors facing the main road. Unfortunately, my door faces the road and everyone that drives by gets a good look at what's inside.
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
Even if you put a couple doors more than you think you will need it doesn't mean you have to use them. They can be cracked for air flow or for washing out. Get doors that roll up so you don't have doors and tracks blocking ceiling area or lights.
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I don't want TOO many because I need wall space for some things, but doors are also kind of expensive. I'll probably wind up with three. One on a gable end and two on the long side. I can't stand roll up doors though...unless they're the high dollar ones. The cheap ones always jam up and don't seal flat to the door casing at the top when they're shut.


I'll have to take a few pictures for reference of where it'll be going and maybe a screen shot of the GIS map to show the weird ass triangle shape of my property.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I don't want TOO many because I need wall space for some things, but doors are also kind of expensive. I'll probably wind up with three. One on a gable end and two on the long side. I can't stand roll up doors though...unless they're the high dollar ones. The cheap ones always jam up and don't seal flat to the door casing at the top when they're shut.


I'll have to take a few pictures for reference of where it'll be going and maybe a screen shot of the GIS map to show the weird ass triangle shape of my property.
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Whatever you do you really need to put two doors opposite of each other so you can drive straight through. Pulling in something that is disabled is so much easier that way.
 
If you plan to heat the shop don't do roll up doors. Along with being a pita when they jam, there a huge heat sync. Spend a frw more bucks and get insulated panels on your doors. This is all providing you have to pay for heat. Free wood? Do whatever you want. Personally, I'd never do roll ups though. You can have them run the tracks up to the ceiling with panels if you want.
 
Yeah, high clearance doors are what I planned on. I DO have a Fisher wood stove that I plan to use in the shop just to cut down on the chill. There's not a shortage of free wood around here right now!

Not sure about having doors opposite of each other. That will depend soley on where the building gets put. If I position it so the doors aren't towards the road, then it'll be closer to the property line with a ditch behind it. If I put it where I could pull straight through, it would be pretty much parallel with the road.

Moving stuff in and out of the shop isn't usually a problem, but I'll play around with door positions.
 
I talked with a rep from Heritage Building Systems today and afterwards he emailed me a quote. I was surprised.

So, a 40x60x16 with two man doors, two 10x10 insulated panel doors on the long side, a 14x14 insulated panel door on the gable end, and a 20 foot lean-to down the 60 foot side worked out to 20,500. That included a handful of engineered plans and freight.

I really assumed it would cost more. I could save about 7000 if I did without the lean-to, but I kinda need one.

Now if I could figure out how much concrete that pad with require and where to get the money from, I'd be good to go!
 
If you plan to pull anything bigger than a Toyota pickup in/out very often, a 10' door is a PITA. Just from experience . Oh and usually 4" insulation is just a few hundred more than 3" if it ain't coming with 4". 6" is available but when they screw the tin down it'll buckle if not careful and look like shit. My dad's shop is 30*50 and has three doors .two across from each other for drive through on opposite side walls with the front wall having two spaced even . The drive thru has been handy at times and let's some air thru. Have you talked to Nash? They are in tarboro. That is who I'm probably using for my building. They have been very helpful and seem reasonable and probably not very far from you .
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I talked with a rep from Heritage Building Systems today and afterwards he emailed me a quote. I was surprised.

So, a 40x60x16 with two man doors, two 10x10 insulated panel doors on the long side, a 14x14 insulated panel door on the gable end, and a 20 foot lean-to down the 60 foot side worked out to 20,500. That included a handful of engineered plans and freight.

I really assumed it would cost more. I could save about 7000 if I did without the lean-to, but I kinda need one.

Now if I could figure out how much concrete that pad with require and where to get the money from, I'd be good to go!
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Got an email I can help you out with the concrete


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Junkyard Dog said:
If you plan to pull anything bigger than a Toyota pickup in/out very often, a 10' door is a PITA. Just from experience . Oh and usually 4" insulation is just a few hundred more than 3" if it ain't coming with 4".
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Having made due for 28 years with a standard 7x8 shop door, a 10x10 will be like a hotdog down a hallway. Besides, if it won't fit through that door, it won't fit on the lift. I haven't talked to Nash yet, but I might give them a holler and see what they can do. Tarboro is about an hour and a half from here.

@Loganwayne I'll PM you
 
ckruzer said:
whats the typical crete cost per sq ft?
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Depends on size and how complicated the footings are. But with them excavating footing, leveling gravel, vapor barrier and doing concrete it’s around 3.50 sf. Plus cost of materials( concrete,rebar, vapor barrier, wire mat)
Placing rebar is 750.00 a ton


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Loganwayne said:
Depends on size and how complicated the footings are. But with them excavating footing, leveling gravel, vapor barrier and doing concrete it’s around 3.50 sf. Plus cost of materials( concrete,rebar, vapor barrier, wire mat)
Placing rebar is 750.00 a ton


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Sounds like Asheville concrete. Around here it's $3.50-4/sqft including concrete
 
jeepinmatt said:
Sounds like Asheville concrete. Around here it's $3.50-4/sqft including concrete
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Concrete is pushing 150 a yard here

Also the subs we use have to have insurance and works comp. and all that.
Their are cheaper concrete guys but not ones we can use.
He is the cheapest and I’d venture to say one of the better concrete companies around the area.


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Loganwayne said:
Concrete is pushing 150 a yard here

Also the subs we use have to have insurance and works comp. and all that.
Their are cheaper concrete guys but not ones we can use.
He is the cheapest and I’d venture to say one of the better concrete companies around the area.


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A yard will do 81sqft at 4" thick. $150/yard=$1.85 per sqft for concrete delivered. Thats about the same price as here for materials ($110-150 depending on a few factors). I'm sure yall have a lot more requirements and complexity for commercial projects, but $4/sqft should be more than sufficient for estimating a residential shop floor.
 
jeepinmatt said:
A yard will do 81sqft at 4" thick. $150/yard=$1.85 per sqft for concrete delivered. Thats about the same price as here for materials ($110-150 depending on a few factors). I'm sure yall have a lot more requirements and complexity for commercial projects, but $4/sqft should be more than sufficient for estimating a residential shop floor.
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Your right, although I’ve used them on some residential projects but we don’t do typical smaller homes.

At $4 a sf cover all the excavation and everything? I haven’t checked to see what the other local places charge but I will be in the next year to get my driveway redone.


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I figured out I'd need about 55 yards including the footers, so basically 60 yards. The last time I checked it was like 140 a yard, but it could be more. Now I just need to find out how much the concrete labor will be and the cost of my large erection :D
 
So, as I always do...I've been thinking about this constantly. I want to do it sooner than later and that's making me think about getting a slightly smaller building. Probably something like a 30x50x16.

The old shop was a 32x50, but I've never had an entire building to myself, so it should do me just fine. The only thing I've ever wished was that the doors were bigger.

I'm just curious on the price difference. Hopefully it will allow me to afford more lean-to footage so all of my stuff can be covered. Stay tuned for more!
 
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