Building a New Shop

Make the 30' dimension bigger and go for it. Mine is 34x40, and I wish it was 5-10ft bigger in both directions. But then I'd just have room for more junk.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
So, as I always do...I've been thinking about this constantly. I want to do it sooner than later and that's making me think about getting a slightly smaller building. Probably something like a 30x50x16.

The old shop was a 32x50, but I've never had an entire building to myself, so it should do me just fine. The only thing I've ever wished was that the doors were bigger.

I'm just curious on the price difference. Hopefully it will allow me to afford more lean-to footage so all of my stuff can be covered. Stay tuned for more!
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my dads shop is 30x50 and I hate the 30' dimension, if you have anything on the back wall and want to shut the door with something like a 4 door truck, it really sucks. Not much room in front of the truck at all. I wish his shop was 40x40 instead. which he probably wishes I'd move all my shit out.
 
In my mind 40x60 is the best size. Our shop at work is 50x50 and it feels like the 10ft along the back wall, opposite the doors, is wasted. I'd much rather have that space on the end and fit another bay in there.
 
I've had all of those exact thoughts myself...I guess a 40x60 with no lean-to would be my best bet. It's what I really want anyway, so I might as well just do the damn thing.
 
If any of you guys that are good with computers and stuff wanted to whip up some layouts, that'd be cool. Feel free to share and help a brother out :D
 
obullfish said:
Larger building and add lean-to a little later?
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I asked about that and they said it's possible as long as I make sure to tell them I want to do it later so they can figure that in when engineering the building. I believe Craven County building codes are going to change next year too, so that might throw a wrench in the mix, but I can always build one myself.

Also, here's a shot of my property. I was standing in the yard yesterday and staring at the back. I never realized that no matter what, the shop won't be behind the house at all. Oh well, not a huge deal.

20181009_130858.jpg
 
obullfish said:
Larger building and add lean-to a little later?
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pain.......get all you can afford now. I regret not doing my lean too as is......cause it weren't engineered to have one. I got to back step and rework the whole side wall for attachment and load. I got to look up this company and see if this is Red Iron or post and Beam.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I talked with a rep from Heritage Building Systems today and afterwards he emailed me a quote. I was surprised.

So, a 40x60x16 with two man doors, two 10x10 insulated panel doors on the long side, a 14x14 insulated panel door on the gable end, and a 20 foot lean-to down the 60 foot side worked out to 20,500. That included a handful of engineered plans and freight.

I really assumed it would cost more. I could save about 7000 if I did without the lean-to, but I kinda need one.

Now if I could figure out how much concrete that pad with require and where to get the money from, I'd be good to go!
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This is also minus erection cost too? Basically pre engineered and dropped off at your sight.
 
Two things I’ll add real quick. Take to the building manufacturer and find out what the building joist span widths are. (I.e anything from 18-24ft wide May use the same joist and columns) and the only real cost difference is the metal siding in the building but labor for installing and concrete per sq ft doesn’t change.

Also if your ever considering going bigger shop later on ask for for end to be an expandable wall I think it’s called. They engineer it like the center clear span area and infill with Perlins then later all you have to do is pull off the metal and it ties right in


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were you planning to concrete under the lean-to? If so, you could cut that cost now, and do it later. Is it cheaper to go with a longer building vs adding a leanto? A 40x90 gives you the same footprint as a 40x60 with 20ft leanto.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
were you planning to concrete under the lean-to? If so, you could cut that cost now, and do it later. Is it cheaper to go with a longer building vs adding a leanto? A 40x90 gives you the same footprint as a 40x60 with 20ft leanto.
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clear span and add wall, actually way cheaper and DIY latter....not as visually appealing if planning on pitch changes and such. Wayyyyyy cheaper if it ends up being a simple stud wall and covered with XYZ. Also another learning thing on my part. I bigger box is easy for the building folks. A cut up one, not so much.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
clear span and add wall, actually way cheaper and DIY latter....not as visually appealing if planning on pitch changes and such. Wayyyyyy cheaper if it ends up being a simple stud wall and covered with XYZ. Also another learning thing on my part. I bigger box is easy for the building folks. A cut up one, not so much.
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My plan has been to build ~40x100 but with a removable wall in the middle and concrete 40x60 day, with the rest as dry storage. Move the wall & add concrete later if i need more. I find myself needing more dry storage and less "working" space as Ive gotten older.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
This is also minus erection cost too? Basically pre engineered and dropped off at your sight.
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Correct. Concrete, assembly, and wiring is up to me...or someone else...but not them.

paradisePWoffrd said:
were you planning to concrete under the lean-to? If so, you could cut that cost now, and do it later. Is it cheaper to go with a longer building vs adding a leanto? A 40x90 gives you the same footprint as a 40x60 with 20ft leanto.
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Nooo. I don't have that kind of money. Just planning to rock under it. Either crushed granite or crushed concrete. I just want a place to park my tractor, excavator, and other two trucks that's out of the direct sunlight and weather. It makes a big difference. I don't think it would be cheaper to do a 40x90 vs a 40x60 with the lean-to.

I don't really plan on ever going bigger. It'll be plenty big enough. If anything, I'll add more lean-tos around it.
 
It just kinda popped in to my head this afternoon. I pretty much know right where I'm going to put it and mostly how I want it laid out. I made a rough sketch. I need to do it on my computer, but haven't yet. If you can see it, let me know what you think.

20181011_221152.jpg
 
It's a 1:12 roof pitch, the 16 foot is the eave height....so over the 20 foot shelter, it'll drop down to just over 14 feet at the end. The peak should be 17' 8" if I figured everything right.
 
So...where do people go about getting the money to build such a thing? It'd be nice if I could just wrap it up in my mortgage, but I can't.

Anybody want to loan me like 40 grand?
 
Croatan_Kid said:
So...where do people go about getting the money to build such a thing? It'd be nice if I could just wrap it up in my mortgage, but I can't.

Anybody want to loan me like 40 grand?
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You'll probably have to wait until you gain enough positive equity in your house. I did an equity line for my shop but my place is paid for. Banks really won't mess with loans that big without enough collateral.
 
Nobody wants to do a home equity loan on a double wide until it's basically paid for....that's why I said I can't do it.
 
What kind of loan do you have on your home? Loans on mobile homes aren’t structured like mortgages on stick built homes. They’re more like car loans. Or so I’ve read on the Google machine.
 
It's a standard, normal, mortgage. They just don't like to loan money against them.
 
This thread poses another question for me. I have a small shop at my new house, 24 x 24. I either want to add to what I have, or build another. Can you put up a metal building without concrete and add it later? I would assume that they are traditionally put down and fastened to the concrete. I need the room for storage asap, but could stand to wait to dump the extra money on concrete. I mainly need it for my outdoor equipment, but would like to park and extra vehicle in it from time to time. So really, a rock floor would be fine. Movable storage buildings are crazy priced compared to a metal building.
 
You could just pour footings where the posts will be and pour your slab later. That's how they did the last to buildings we built. They are large commercial buildings and aren't comparable cost wise. If you did it for a small building, I doubt it would save you hardly any money. The footings eat up a lot of concrete and they still have to have a machine out there to dig them and still have to have a few guys on site to pour them. I would think that you would only save the cost of the concrete on the pad. But that savings would be eaten up with extra labor costs (twice as many trips for the concrete crew).
 
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