Monkeynono
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2018
- Location
- Mars Hill
All this saw talk is making me want another saw....you guys are a bad influence
I have a friend in Hartsville that has one. He's offered to cut it for me but in all honesty I'm interested in red oak to do some projects with. Just can't seem to find it close by. He has a bunch of wood hes cut to slabs. White oak, ceder, black walnut, and pecan are some I can think of off the top of my head.Ah.
I’m seriously considering buying a bandsaw mill. I think I’d never have to buy lumber again by just harvesting culls and dead timber off my property.
I’m considering a Norwood lm29v2 all manual mill vs used woodmizer LT40hd that’s got a lot of bells.
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That is some really good info and helps a lot. I wnet by the local Stihl dealer in hartsville today and they had noting big in stock. Going to go check out the shop Wes recommended next.@ghost 372XP's are no longer in production, and they have a cult following, so that is actually a decent price. They are great saws, but for that money I'd be looking at an MS660 or 661, or really nice 576XP or MS461. The 064 is kind of like the small frame version of the 066/MS660. Similar motor size, but the construction is not as beefy. Honestly it's probably perfect for your needs, but that price seems high to me.
Some useful info: Stihl lists their models in cubic inches (046 is 4.6 cubic inches or 77cc, and then that changed to MS460 which is also 4.6 cubic inches). Most of the others have the engine size in CC's in the model name (372xp is 72cc, 576xp is 76cc, etc). For a 30"+ bar, I'd want something 70cc or bigger, so a Stihl 044/MS440 or larger.
This is me right now too.All this saw talk is making me want another saw....you guys are a bad influence
I can make that happen. Sounds like a good deal. Will send you my number in PM.@ghost I just talked to a buddy of mine that I sold an MS460 to last year, and he's wanting to thin his herd. He'd take $500 for it. I can get it to southwest Charlotte by Carowinds, or my house if that's helpful. No obligation, just providing information.
Sorry man. Had no idea they were closed for that length of time.
No worries had to give you a hard time. I was going to text but ran through the Ford dealership and got accosted.Sorry man. Had no idea they were closed for that length of time.
Check the end where the chain turns. The gear at the end will slow the chain down. If it does not turn easy that might be your problem. It however sounds like the chain depth is too shallow.Here's a question for those in the know. How does one know when a bar has lived it's useful life? My 20" bar on my 391 is 9 years old now and my saw no longer cuts for shit regardless how sharp the chain is. Engine still has all the power but the chains don't bite anymore.
Here's a question for those in the know. How does one know when a bar has lived it's useful life? My 20" bar on my 391 is 9 years old now and my saw no longer cuts for shit regardless how sharp the chain is. Engine still has all the power but the chains don't bite anymore.
Experiencing that also. Curves more than a bad hacksaw. Stihl or Oregon for a replacement?My 029 Farm boss with a 20" bar wouldn't cut straight anymore, even with different chains. A new bar and the problem was solved.
I bought a new Stihl bar and chain combo. I don't plan on ever selling the saw.Experiencing that also. Curves more than a bad hacksaw. Stihl or Oregon for a replacement?
Here's a question for those in the know. How does one know when a bar has lived it's useful life? My 20" bar on my 391 is 9 years old now and my saw no longer cuts for shit regardless how sharp the chain is. Engine still has all the power but the chains don't bite anymore.
Curving could be a result of an unevenly sharpened chain, or a bent/worn bar. If it's just cutting slow, you may have too much material on the rakers. They are the things that stick up in front of the cutting edge, and that's what sets the depth or thickness of what each tooth cuts. The teeth are angled to provide relief behind the cutting edge so that they can continue downward as you cut, but as you sharpen the leading edge, the height of the tooth decreases, so your rakers have to be shortened to match. With all that said, its probably the bar. Stihl makes the best bars and chains. Even the Husky guys on the internet forums prefer Stihl chains. Oregon has different models of bars, and some might be better, but most are softer than the Stihls and will wear out faster. If you want people to know how cool you are, get Tsumura 20" stainless lightweight bar:Experiencing that also. Curves more than a bad hacksaw. Stihl or Oregon for a replacement?
Good call on the rakers. I've sharpened the chains many times but haven't touched the rakers. I'm sure my chain teeth are a little off by now as well. I'm just gonna head up to I-Ron station and get a new bar and chain.Curving could be a result of an unevenly sharpened chain, or a bent/worn bar. If it's just cutting slow, you may have too much material on the rakers. They are the things that stick up in front of the cutting edge, and that's what sets the depth or thickness of what each tooth cuts. The teeth are angled to provide relief behind the cutting edge so that they can continue downward as you cut, but as you sharpen the leading edge, the height of the tooth decreases, so your rakers have to be shortened to match. With all that said, its probably the bar. Stihl makes the best bars and chains. Even the Husky guys on the internet forums prefer Stihl chains. Oregon has different models of bars, and some might be better, but most are softer than the Stihls and will wear out faster. If you want people to know how cool you are, get Tsumura 20" stainless lightweight bar:
20" TsuMura LIGHT WEIGHT Guide Bar 3/8-063-72DL fits Stihl WITH FREE CHAIN! | eBay
This is a new 20" TsuMura. This is a new TsuMura 20" 3/8" pitch. 063 gauge, 72 drive link Professional Guide Bar. This guide bar fits Stihl like the models 034, 036, 038, 040, 041, 042, 044, 045, 046, 048, 056, 064, 066, MS260, MS261, MS270, MS280, MS290, MS291, MS310, MS311, MS341, MS360...www.ebay.com
But if that's too much, just get a new Stihl one from Mount Holly Farm or the place up in Iron Station.
If you haven't had a new chain in years, you will be impressed by how fast and straight it cuts.Good call on the rakers. I've sharpened the chains many times but haven't touched the rakers. I'm sure my chain teeth are a little off by now as well. I'm just gonna head up to I-Ron station and get a new bar and chain.