cherokee beater build

you'r so scarrrrrry!
 
Smaller tires and a 44 rather than a 60, but here's what me and a buddy did to his. Unibody sleeved in 3/16 wall C-channel. Plug welded every 6 inches and a 2-3" stitch every 3-4" accross the top of the channel. The cage tie ins made the biggest difference. Makes the chassis so much more rigid and let's the suspension work.
awww.rrorc.com_gallery_data_500_medium_tie_in4.jpg
 
"Although it is possible to weld to the unibody, the longevity of the weld in questionable. The unibody is only 16 guage (.060 in.) and the heat of a weld stresses the thin metal. The weld may not crack but the unibody around it may. The unibody is welded from the factory, however, robot controlled welding is done complete with heat sensors creating welds much more exact than a human is capable of".





Last time I checked, if you were talking about Rustysoffroad site that is, they make some of the cheapest and shittiest products out there so I would be taking anything from their site as the gospel.
 
"Although it is possible to weld to the unibody, the longevity of the weld in questionable. The unibody is only 16 guage (.060 in.) and the heat of a weld stresses the thin metal. The weld may not crack but the unibody around it may. The unibody is welded from the factory, however, robot controlled welding is done complete with heat sensors creating welds much more exact than a human is capable of".
Last time I checked, if you were talking about Rustysoffroad site that is, they make some of the cheapest and shittiest products out there so I would be taking anything from their site as the gospel.


thats an opinion. have you ran any of there parts? i have and i like them. but thats my opinion also:flipoff2:
 
With the cage bolted through the unibody(6 points) to mounts welded to the sleeved section of the unibody we haven't seen any cracks yet. It's been done for 2 years now and beaten nicely. There was a problem with the tracbar mount coming loose up front. Bolts kept backing out, that is until I ran a ~2" stitch down each side of the bracket to the UNIBODY.
 
No I personally have used RE and now Clayton, and won't look back. But I have many friends who have ran their stuff and that's exactly why I don't. It is an opinion though.
Nic-
 
I mean w/e welding to the unibody may be sketch, buuuuut pretty much everyone does it, and I have yet to see a situation where it cause's problems.


Besides if it does cause problems you can just weld more metal to it.


I don't see the unibody failing being an issue at all, because it takes bout 10 minutes, a few peices of metal, and a welder to fix :driver:
 
Smaller tires and a 44 rather than a 60, but here's what me and a buddy did to his. Unibody sleeved in 3/16 wall C-channel. Plug welded every 6 inches and a 2-3" stitch every 3-4" accross the top of the channel. The cage tie ins made the biggest difference. Makes the chassis so much more rigid and let's the suspension work.
awww.rrorc.com_gallery_data_500_medium_tie_in4.jpg

finally some useful feedback.

just got back to the house from sarasota, fl
 
HAHA i forgot about that, the first 1" body lift installed that actually gave a negative inch of lift after installed...HAHA ZACK we just have to laugh, no hard feelings
 
finally some useful feedback.
just got back to the house from sarasota, fl
my useful feedback: Sarasota is the shit...just wanted to let you know i was jealous that you got to go...
 
haha yeah it was nice down there until sunday when that storm rolled through. kind of a crapy 12 hour drive back to raleigh.

but yeah i was down there fishing the flw kingfish tour
 
soo is this thread just a bunch of young yuppies talking or is chris actually going to be building something and putting pics up???
 
shut up tyler. when are you gonna fix your heep?

and yes for right now it is just a bunch of people talking until i get some updated pics and more money and parts
 
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